TNs: Recent Burgs

  • 2004 Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Petits Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru (5/21/2016)
    Wow. The first really convincing 2004 I think I’ve ever had. I don’t really know if this had or doesn’t have the greenies, but there is so much else going on aromatically that if the greenies are there, they’re covered up. Asian spice, plum, raspberries, oak spice. None of that browning pale 2004 color - this looks like a goddamned burg. In the mouth, deep, rich, plummy, powerful. Plenty of very ripe skin tannin. Long. Very long. Real POlice. (92 pts.)
  • 2012 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny (5/19/2016)
    This falls squarely in the more masculine side of Chambolle, but is quite a good wine. Here’s an example of nice whole-cluster use, spicy/cinammony but not green; lots of iron-tinged mineral character (think Barthod); mixed red and dark fruit, a nice floral character and fine, but slightly drying, bitter chocolate tannin. There’s a nice hit of oak here but it already seems to be integrated. This is very tasty but feels like it is on the verge of shutting down. Excellent QPR. (89 pts.)
  • 2009 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru (5/15/2016)
    Dark fruit. Lots of very fine tannin. Somewhat coarse and Nuits-y, but that’s how I remember bottles from when they were young. Not nearly as good or refined as the 2012. Meaty, salty, long. Probably very good with time but not very Mugnier. (88 pts.)
  • 2012 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne Passetoutgrains L’Exception - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (5/9/2016)
    Very nice vintage for this. Not shut down yet, very pinoty compared to usual; red fruit, fish sauce, that lafarge floral/no stem nose, some tannic structure lurks; less concentrated than the 2005 or 2009 but those were impenetrable young and still are - this is approachable and tasty. (89 pts.)