NORTHERN RHONES 90 AND OLDER - Bistro Campagne, chicago IL (8/1/2009)
This was something that a few of us had been talking about doing for a while, so we finally went ahead to make it work. All our real focus was on, was having older northern rhones as there wasn’t a real set flighting or theme outside of having older northern rhones. We took a look at the Bistro Campagne menu and it looked like it would work perfectly for this dinner
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1985 E. Guigal Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
nose: real lovely nose initially with tones of bacon fat, black cherries, celery sticks, bits of black spices and some dark florals, but then seems to flatten out and the exression and layering disappears and becomes a bit more simple
taste: a bit hollow on the mid palate with a really good medium feel that is rather suave with good tones of black cherries, bacon fat and tones of black spices. Refined tannins, but this doesn’t really have the drive that a previous bottle had and fell off a bit
overall: had a great fill level and seemed to be a great bottle at first, but fell off a bit soon after being open. Wasn’t over the hill, just a bottle that was lacking and didn’t hit that next level that had previously been done (89 pts.)
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1990 Noël Verset Cornas - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
nose: ridiculously deep nose filled with big and balanced tones of animal hides, scorched earth, pipe tobacco, loads of bacon fat, leather, black cherries, along with bits of mesquite tones and some various funky tones that are hard to place. Very well layered that is very intriguing and beguiling at the same time. A nose that can’t come from anywhere else
taste: great medium/full feel with good tannins still present that give really good grip still with well balanced and deep tones of pipe tobacco, scorched earth, loads of bacon fat, black cherries, and tones of mesquite
overall: a wine like no other that provides much intrigue. An absolute beguiling nose that is very deep and rough with a real edge to it, but a sumptuous quality at the same time. Certainly seems like it has a ways to go, but is an absolute delight right (95 pts.)
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1989 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
nose: extremely funky that is loaded with tones of bacon fat, black cherries, dark floral tones, and some tones of manure. Wonderful depth and balance that can only come from the northern rhone
taste: wonderful and medium/full bodied with melded tones of bacon fat, black cherries, raspberries, and dark floral tones with a tinge of spice tones and bits of lavender. Very classy tones that are extremely balanced
overall: drinking beautifully and is certainly not for fruit forward fans at all. This is pure aged northern rhone through and through in all its beauty. Was great on pop n pour, but certainly emerged more in the glass and added a satin quality to it (93 pts.)
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1990 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
nose: took a bit to get going, but when it did, lovely tones of dark florals, bacon fat, violets, dark cherries, dark berries, and a touch of black pepper all round out together in a relatively feminine style. Very classy and elegant that becomes more layered and deep as it gets air
taste: A very pretty medium/full feel with still very good tannins gives this a elegant backdrop with plush and round tones of black pepper, dark florals, bacon fat, and dark cherries. Rather feminine on the palate too, this served as a real nice contrast to the verset and Jamet
overall: Has a good life ahead of it. It took about 90 minutes of air to really get going, but when it did, it was a thing of beauty. Very well balanced that helped make this a very classy and elegant wine (93 pts.)
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1976 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie Les Jumelles - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
nose: dark and brooding, but doesn’t scream as the previous bottles. Bolder tones of black cherries, herbs, loads of spice tones, lavender, along with white and black pepper. Excellent depth, but doesn’t seem to have that next level that the previous two bottles possessed
taste: a tamed bully with a real silky medium/full feel, this has presence on the palate with excellent tones of white and black pepper, black cherries, allspice, and a bit of lavender. While the tones are really well balanced, there isn’t as much expression on the palate or depth as the previous two bottles
overall: in a sense this was a slight disappointment as the last two bottles that I have had, have been monumental. This was still very much an outstanding bottle and had a real presence about it, but just didn’t have that extra level that the past two bottles had (92 pts.)
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1982 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
nose: absolutely captivating nose filled with lovely tones of purple florals, dark red cherries, various spice tones, lavender, herbs, mineral rich earth, and loads of perfumes. Very burgundian on the nose that is extremely layered and pure. A very heady nose that has a lifting quality to it that almost becomes extra sensory
taste: Excellent fine grained tannins along with a real polished and silky feel with really good depth and tones of lavender, loads of dark red cherries, perfumes, and mineral rich earth. Very pure and has a delicate side to it that makes it quite attractive. Seemed a bit clipped on the finish and mid palate though and didn’t really seem to kick into third gear and was stuck in second gear.
Overall: This was an almost there situation. It had seen some good air, which had been the benefit of it previously, but this bottle just couldn’t get into that final gear and have it be as great as it was previously. A real delight though for the nose alone as everything was there with some real class and stature, it just didn’t kick into that final gear that has made this a mind bending wine in the past (94 pts.)
A great night. Lots of laughs as usual with food that went perfectly. In a sense the wines were a slight let down, but that was due to the weight of expectation, which was quite high. The wines still showed very well, and the Verset was easily one of the most intriguing wines I’ve had this year and will certainly leave a real memory for me. A lot of fun was had and I look to do it again
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