Hosted a small gathering for some good friends, most of whom are just dipping their toes into the world of Pinot. Calculated cross-sectional view served as follows:
1999 Rene de Lacray Pommard Griottes Pourpres: Seems to have been some bottle variation here – this was my third of 3 bottles, and was not as good as the first, nor as bad as the second. Fair dose of cherry-tinged red fruit on the nose. Soft in the middle, lacking coherence and precision. Structure seems more relaxed than I would have anticipated for a Pommard. The acid was high, but faded quickly, and the finish was slightly clipped. Not a bad wine (particularly for < $25), but nothing special either. 87 points.
2004 Inman Family, Olivet Grange Vineyard: Really hitting its stride. A flood of tart cherry and rose petals on the nose. Smooth and polished mouthfeel, excellent acidity, and fine balance. Some cinnamon-tinged spice and oak on the finish, which had actually not integrated as much as my previous bottle…more noticeable here. I wanted to spend more time with this, but it went fast: the first bottle drained at the table (telling). Very drinkable now, but not going anywhere either. 93 points
2004 Alesia, Kanzler Vineyard: Wanted to test this due to recent comments that the Rhys/Alesia 04’s are bretty…happy to say no brett here. Some reductive funkiness for sure, but no dirty band aid aromas. This was dark and brooding. Pomegranate fruit is huge. Big but balanced, and keeps the ripeness in check with a fair dose of acid. In some ways reminds me of the 2005 Rivers-Marie Occidental Ridge, though that wine is a touch more flamboyant right now. Not much back-end structure here, the finish was medium-short. Although not typically a fan of Kanzler, I’ve enjoyed these bottles. Again, this is ready to fly now, but could hold another year or 2…I have one left and will look to drink it within that time frame. 89 points.
2006 Cameron, Dundee Hills: Decanted about 6 hours to get the reductive funkiness to blow off. This was by far the flashiest wine on the table, very ripe and fragrant. Tart cranberry and red currant give way to course threads of acid that are very pervasive. Full mid-palate of fruit and acid, this is long and seductive with a medium-long finish. This could easily go for a few years in the cellar, but I can’t keep my hands off of them now. 92 points.