Vinedos de Paganos La Nieta Rioja 2004:
After five hours in the decanter this wine still wasn’t playing nice. It took another two hours in the glass to really give anything . . . and even then it was minimal. After another hour or so the wine decided to give up on its coquettish ways and began to slowly undress. Thanks, now I’ve got this one glass left . . . and it rocks! The nose smells of wild fruits, toasted spices, freshly scraped vanilla, charred wood and violets. A rush of more exotic flavors attack your palate next- black truffles, crushed stones, pulverized graphite, Morello cherries, black licorice, plump blueberries and roasted Italian coffee grounds. Marvelously complex and impressively endowed, this wine is simply excellent. And, I know I rarely say this, but it was sort of travesty to drink it now. I have no idea when it will reach its full potential but when it does I assure you it will be a genius wine. Right now it is a playful, enjoyable and intellectually intoxicating wine . . . but too much work. Dammit wine acquiese! For now, even though I rarely can in the real world, I must learn to keep my hands off . . . 95 points
Numanthia Numanthia 2005:
Opaque purple/black in color and packed (too much?) with purple and white flower scents, vanilla oak and briary blackberries. The first whiff (and first taste) led me to put the bottle aside for a while. During the wine’s Time Out it opened up and began to show off some secondary nuances- baking spices, liquid smoke, drunken cherries, molasses and espresso. I imagine those things (all of them, not just the new ones) could only appeal to a small section of people. Paired with three different kinds of homade quesadillas the wine did alright (save the seared sirloin, cilantro, Maytag Blue Cheese and roasted pepper one). It will be interesting to see if the oak integrates but there is no doubt there is a lot going on . . . just have to wonder if any of the goings on are your (or my) bag? 88? points
Artadi Pagos Viejos Rioja 2000:
Man do I love Artadi. I love Artadi even better when I find the wines discounted because of retailer stupidity. Now I am a retailer so I generally don’t approve of taking advantage of my collegues but . . . I saw these for a stupid price in Florida and asked the clerk if they were (a) mismarked (perhaps it was mistagged as Vinas de Gain?) (b) they had been in the store for a long time and were discounted for that reason (I visit the store a number of times a year and had never seen them so I doubt this was the case). She chastised me and told me the price was correct. I bought one, took it to my in-laws and tried it. It was awesome so I went back and cleaned them out. Score. Think black fruits, minerals, espresso roast, tobacco leaf, Ranier cherries and pencil lead. Think focus, concentration, purity and power. Think one of the best Rioja from that vintage. 95 points
Bodegas Hornillos Ballesteros Perfil de Mibal 2003:
This is a truly cool wine. While '04 and '05 got all the press (and rightfully so!) a lot of '03s got passed over (and rightfully so!). But there a lot of really good '03s from Rioja and Ribera right now. This is one. Dense and rich, with an electric color, good acid profile and an excellent aromatic profile. I love the sexy combination of blue fruit, dusty graphite, smoke and roasted meats. Playing in the background are some vanilla (oak) and espresso, along with wildflowers and berry liqueur. Should hold up for another 10-15 years but really drinks well now. 93 points
Clos Galena Clos Galena 2004:
Only the second time I have had this wine. The first time I had it I really enjoy it. This time I felt like the wine was “in transition” and not showing its best. The nose was opulent- smokey meats, BBQ spices, wild berries and dried cherries. But the rest of the experience didn’t match the nose. Tart red currants stood out and a razor sharp line of acidity pierced through the center of the wine. At the end the oak seemed to clip the finish. Not what I was hopping for but I think it will turn around since my first showing was so good. 87 points
Acustic Acustic 2006:
Smells of freshly cut cedar and of pantry spices, with the fruit (think black plums and yellow cherries) along for the ride. The wine is surprisingly smooth. In fact it is down right elegant. After a few sips I returned to the nose and found it to be the same. Like a swizzle stick made of cedar with a cherry on top. But what was in the glass was nice. Good value too. Will check this one out again. 89 points
