TNs--Mike on Tour, White Rhones in NYC, November 7, 2014

WINE TALK
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I was fortunate to have Margie Russell able to coordinate dinner for my first night in New York City on the tour. I had wanted to do White Rhones and we had a fun evening at Tolani, where I enjoyed the food and service quite a bit. Lots of animated conversation. Craig Gleason, in for the weekend from San Francisco, was able to join us late, and also present were Margie’s friend Mardi, Jay Hack, David and Caroline Lazar and their friend Joe who was only going to stop in and say hello and ended up being able to sit with us for the evening.

2009 E. Guigal La Doriane

Ginger and banana frame for me, some honeysuckle. In the mouth, tangy at first and then settles in. Some marzipan to go with white fruit. Enjoyable, but a little different than what I’ve been used to in Rhone Viognier

2011 Cayuse Viognier

Blind, you might have fooled me for sure into thinking this was the white Rhone. Definite nectarine and hint of apricot scents. To taste, quite elegant, some bite just at the front but it frames and sets up a smooth delivery with light honey and some nectarine replay.

2011 Alain Voge Fleur de Crissol

This was quite something. I didn’t know the Cornas producer made white. This has a ton of gunflint in the bouquet. Underneath, there are hints of candied fig around peach and melon. Le gout is tangy apricot with that aggressive gunflint again. Develops a hibiscus secondary with time. Quite the presentation, though not sure if I really liked it at the end of the day.

2009 Tardieu-Laurent CdP Blanc

This has more of a baked apple and sugared peach aromatic complexion. Perhaps ticks of mustard or cumin. Actually a touch on the crisp side, tiny bits of caramel popcorn to go with candy apple.

2011 Clos St. Jean CdP Blanc

Had this some 6 months ago or so—it is still very classy, with florals, nips of melon ball, white grape and vanilla getting at you. Smooth on the tongue, this time I detect a very definite salty and light spice side to the white fruit. Still great value.

2012 Eric Texier Opale Viognier

Crazy stuff—a huge perfume bouquet and when you get it on the palate—swee-eet. This is somewhere between a Moulin Touchais and a White Port. Very light. Not my style, but a very unique wine to try.

1995 Beaucastel Blanc

Craig brought this and we were all curious to see how a 19 year old was doing. Starts with oxidative notes on the nose with sherry but backed by a firm nutty side. And ,while structure and balance of feel are certainly still there and while I am always ready to accept an element of oxidative flavour in my older Rhones, this one is, unfortunately, past its due date. Still very glad to have the chance to try it.

2010 Domaine Mathieu CdP Blanc

Not a lot on the aroma, maybe some dried pit fruit. On palate, somewhat sharp, I get some spices around lemon and bits of citrus. Some saltiness here too.

Haere Ra,

Mike

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I didn’t take any notes for this one as I was arriving from SFO very late (after 11pm by the time I arrived at the restaurant). I appreciate everyone hanging on so late in the night and it was great to meet all of you!

I made a few comments on the wines in the original offline thread. I’ll just say a bit about Beaucastel Blanc here. I’ve mostly had experience with these from the early to mid-90’s. In the past several years, I’ve had some fascinating bottles, some total duds, and some in between. This 1995 was very nice when it was younger. The best that I can say about this bottle was that it was drinkable if you don’t mind oxidized wines. I kept my glass and followed it over at least an hour. I wouldn’t call it good but it held some interest and had some complexity. It was, however, really oxidized and didn’t have any of the magic that a 1994 did a couple years ago (that bottle also had a lot of oxidative character but it was combined with some remaining freshness and fruit that made for a super complex experience). On the other hand I had a 1996 a year ago that was just totally dead and difficult to even taste.

Historically, the white Beaucastel had a reputation for aging well. Mike made a good point that when Beaucastel started making the VV, it may have taken the best material from the regular and perhaps this is the result.

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Thanks Craig–as a counterpoint of sorts, I have my 2006 VV up to bat to taste in 2 years. I think that will be at least the beginning of about the right time.