TNs--Mike on Tour--Nov 16 in Albany with Salil Benegal, Ken Vastola and David Bueker--82 Figeac, 90 Bollinger, 97 Muller Catoir, 05 Truchot, 91 Monte Bello, 19 Beta, others

WINE TALK
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Truly an embarrassment of riches tonight as Salil made roast chicken, veggies and delicious caneles de Bordeaux (to go with the 94 SGN). It was great to see him again and to see Ken Vastola and his wife Amy after a 6 year hiatus. It was more than great to at last get the chance to meet and break bread with David Bueker, who has been on my top-10 not-yet-met-list for a while now. The meeting was all pleasure as we talked about all sorts of stuff both wine-related and non-wine-related. I really hope we get the chance to spend some time again----thank you so much for making the drive to meet up!

David started us with a blind. Opened about 3 hours before, not decanted. I get some torrefaction but it’s nicely elegant with sweet red fruit, brown sugar at the back. Indicates it’s older, I waffled between older Bordeaux and older Cali and went (correctly :slight_smile: ) older Cali. 1985 Chateau Montelena David can weigh in, but I think you’re drinking these up if you have them.

1990 Bollinger R.D.

I was thinking that Blake Brown would be smiling. Lots of brioche on the initial bouquet. Starts out shyly sherried–sort of, but only for a minute or two, picks up lovely complexity and vivacity in the glass. Some lemon and baked apple here, and the bubbles drop off after about 30 minutes or so. In a way, reminds me of a sort of youthful Vina Tondonia Blanco, but it’s clearly champagne and a very enjoyable one!

2018 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling

I brought this specifically for Salil, remembering an earlier note on the board. This is definitely Grosset for me, with the lemon-lime cut, laser focus, sure thrust and gliding back finish. These used to be the driest dry
this one has a very small trace of sweetness through tinges of apple, but less than other recent vintages. Liked it plenty.

2005 Jacky Truchot Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes

This smells so Burgundian :slight_smile: Earth and raspberry fully in play for me here, and it’s excellent on the tongue, deep and pure expression of terroir and small berry fruit. A little coffee note right at the back. Great showing
a 2005 that seems ready. Open for 2 hours before I got to it, no decant

1997 Muller-Catoir Haardter Herrenletten Ries Spat

Much thanks to David for bringing this as well. Beautiful goldenrod colour. Apple and tropical–star fruit–mingle in the sniffer. It’s got great mouthfeel, just that sense of enough acidity to carry the pretty, pretty yellow fruit. Dangerously easy to drink.

1982 Chateau Figeac

Salil opened this and I can’t but be grateful. The nose is glorious—class in a glass on a special order of magnitude, it features sweet tobacco, beautiful basil and sage and pretty currant. The palate is smooth as anything and fully mature. Some graphite and tobacco too, but gently weaves into robust red fruit. This is special–very special, in the way that it lives in both the meditative wine and pleasure wine worlds at once. Really one of the better Bordeaux I’ve been able to taste and a definite addition to the WOTY list. When I cast back and think of the 82 Canon also being one of my great Bordeaux experiences, it would seem that I like that vintage :smile: Note that this saw about a 2 hour decant before I got to it. WOTN

1991 Ridge Monte Bello Cab

Ken was so very kind to bring this at my request, as we had planned to have this together before Covid short-circuited my planned last visit with him and Amy. 1 hour decant before it arrived. A touch of funk, but fits neaetly into wintergreen notes around black currant. Even a dash of barnyard much later. Still a TON of energy here, can only describe it as what I think of when I think of classic Cali Cab. Decades of life still left.

2019 Beta Vare Cab

I wasn’t sure who of the group had had one yet, so I brought this bottle (David has tried a fair amount, I think this was a first for Salil and Ken and Amy). I get some balsam here and some cranberry and raspberry. This is still prettily slender but structured. Gave a 2 hour decant, and I like this as well, it has the flow of acid, tannins and fruit that works for me, but I may prefer the Montecillo and Maus expressions
so far. It is, of course, still very early days. 12.2% alc.

1994 Z-H PG Clos Jebsal SGN Trie Speciale

Salil opened this for us to sort of celebrate and remember the 94 Z-H Gewurtz SGN that we shared which was my WOTY last year. This also is swoonful with a redolent nose of apricot, peach and even for me a small twitch of amaretto. Thick and rich and lots of replays in the mouth, with loads of tropical fruit added. It still has enough carry not to be torpid, for sure, and it’s really kinkylicious, but I will admit that I did love the Gewurtz more. Still, very grateful to try this to compare.

The best part was being in wonderful, giving company. That’s essentially what this whole trip is about. Thank you

Mike

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What a night! '91 Montebello is still on my bucket list. Glad you got to bookend the '94 SGN!

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Tremendous lineup of wines and people. Any night where you get wines from both Truchot and HGS is going to be a rare treat. Add 1982 Figeac and 1991 Monte Bello which are each among the best wines of outstanding vintages and the night is as much a unicorn as are some of the wines.

As I mentioned in another thread, the 1994 Zind-Humbrecht Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal SĂ©lection de Grains Nobles TriĂ© SpĂ©ciale is reported to be 540 g/l RS, 12 grams acidity, 4% alcohol. I’ve had it a couple of times and have been amazed by how the acid offsets the incredible sugar level.

We’re going to have to step things up next time you are in Atlanta to keep up with this standard, though at least a few of my wines of the year were shared with you. Happy travels!

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What an amazing lineup! The 1982 Figeac sounds incredible, and the 1991 Ridge Monte Bello must have been a treat with its classic Cali Cab profile. The 1994 Z-H SGN sounds like a perfect way to wrap up the evening. Looks like an unforgettable night with great company and even better wines

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Amazing afternoon (I arrived at Salil’s place about three hours before Mike, which is why so many bottles got some air!), and a true pleasure to finally meet Mike. Great people all around and great wine as Mike said.

I documented the Truchot in another thread. It really transformed with air. When it was opened my reaction was “huh, interesting” but later it was sublime.

The 1985 Montelena was definitely on the creaky side. Cork was perfect, but there are no good wines at that age, just good bottles. It had some pleasure, but wasn’t on form.

I only had a little of the Polish Hill, and the hint of palate sweetness really surprised me. Definitely on the drier side for Riesling, but not as stern as I was expecting.

The Bollinger had me worried at first. It was more on the oxidative/sherried side when first opened, but did freshen up quite a bit. Ultimately a fine, old Champagne if you enjoy that expression. I do, and so loved it once it got some air.

The Catoir was another one that benefited from being open for a bit. It was actually darker in color at first, but that even changed over time. Herrenletten is not a vineyard I have ever owned much of, but it’s a clearly different expression from say Burgergarten.

The Figeac was amazing. It had this broad streak of green tobacco/ pine when first opened, but the more air it got the more the fruit came to the front. Smooth as velvet, the texture was what really grabbed me. Wonderful, especially if you don’t mind a bit of the green.

The Beta was “Cabernet Unplugged.” The style certainly speaks to old school Napa, but the totally unvarnished expression is unique. Reminds me a bit of Arnot-Roberts but even more stripped down. Needs tons of time.

For me the 1991 Monte Bello is the best California Cabernet wine I have ever tasted. I opened one a couple of years ago, and was blown away. This bottle was at the same level. A true pleasure to taste it again.

As for the ZH SGN
luscious!

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I got to Salil’s later than Mike and Dave, so I didn’t taste all the wines, but here are my notes on what I did taste.

DINNER WITH MIKE G AND DAVE B - ChĂąteauneuf-du-Salil, Albany (11/16/2024)

Mike G's second stop on his fall East Coast tour was at Salil's. Dave B drove over from Connecticut. Amy and I made the short jaunt to Salil's. And Salil prepared an excellent dinner.

Photos and more details can be found on my website.

Starter

With tasty, assorted appetizers.

  • 1990 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut - France, Champagne
    [Disgorged 5 March 2002.] This had been open for an hour or so before I tasted it. Others loved it, but for me, it was starting to go over the hill. Oxidation in the nose put me off a bit, but it was still yeasty and complex in the mouth. Drink up! (91 points)

Main Course

Salil's roast chicken thighs, sweet potatoes, wild rice, and his famous carrots in tahini.

  • 1985 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
    [Open around 3:30pm. Tasted around 7:30pm.] Quite mature, but the nose is full of dried cherries and forest floor. Long, complex finish. On the downslope, but still gorgeous. (93 points)
  • 1982 ChĂąteau Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    [Decanted around 5pm. Tasted around 7:30pm.] Complex, woodsy nose with hints of cedar and spice. Elegant in the mouth with lots of tobacco, dark red fruit, and graphite. Stunningly complex and long. At its peak but not declining at all. Special. (96 points)
  • 2005 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
    [Open around 4pm. Tasted around 8:30pm.] Smoky, ethereal, red fruit nose. Extraordinarily complex. Gorgeous. A stunning wine. This is why people collect and age wine. The magic of a great, mature Burgundy. (97 points)
  • 1991 Ridge Monte Bello - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
    [Double-decanted for 1.5 hours around 5pm. Tasted around 8pm.] Stunning nose of blackberries and spice soars from the glass. Big, rich, classic Monte Bello. I am surprised at how young this still is. Big and tannic, but the tannins are softening and integrating in the long juicy finish. 97-?? (97 points)
  • 2019 Beta Cabernet Sauvignon Vare Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oak Knoll District
    [Decanted around 6pm. Tasted around 8:30pm.] This is a lovely, well-made Napa Cab, but it is very young. Coming after several fully mature great wines was probably not the best place for me to taste this. I would wait 8-10 years to drink another of these. 91-93 (91 points)

Dessert

Salil's heavenly Canelés de Bordeaux.

We hadn't seen Mike since before covid, so it was great that he was able to make a stop in Albany. Always great to see him and Dave again. Big thanks to Salil for hosting and cooking. Tonight, the wine gods smiled upon us as each wine showed its special qualities in such abundance.

Posted from CellarTracker

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Awesome notes, what a gathering! The 1982 Figeac is amazing. Saw Mike’s reference point, the 1982 Canon. Also a wonderful wine.

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Well, that was awesome. Great to see Mike again after a long time, and to catch up again with David and Ken. This was one of those days/evenings where all the wines showed incredibly well, about as well as I could hope for, and the company and conversation were wonderful.

I loved the Bollinger. A touch tired at first, but it perked up with air and showed lovely depth - an oxidative character with toasted hazelnut and brown butter notes on the nose, but bright, tart citrus fruit on the palate and plenty of energy from the effervescence and acidity.

The Grosset was in line with other recent Polish Hills that I’ve found surprisingly approachable and generous in their fruit and (faint) sweetness on the palate. The last few vintages I’ve had all seemed more generous, rather than the really austere mineral and citrus-flecked presence they had a decade or so ago in their youth.

The Truchot
 really not much to add to David’s notes. The initial scent - intensely smoky, almost meaty - had me surprised initially, but the palate presence was always ethereal and delicate from the first sip, and the aromatics settled into the red fruited/earthy package I’ve found in those wines. Beautiful.

The Figeac was stellar. Stunning aromatics from the moment it was decanted, though at that point the tannin still showed a bit grainy. A couple of hours in the decanter helped smooth it out, and the aromatic depth was really something.

The Monte Bello was probably my favorite of the night by a hair over the Figeac. Such a beautiful perfume to it, all the fruit and oak and spice and other savoury flavours coming together seamlessly, and still so young with a lot of richness to the fruit and apparent tannin. But an absolute joy to drink.

I liked the Beta a lot (David’s note of Cabernet unplugged is spot on), an unusually light, almost glou glou style of Cabernet that felt very refreshing and light, yet showing lovely richness and warmth to the fruit on a very light frame. But with the older, more aromatically complex wines at the table, it got a little lost for me.

Also loved the Catoir and ZH, not much I can add there to the others’ notes. Just an incredibly fun night, thanks to all for the company and conversation.

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From my experience, Bollinger RDs almost always show pretty strong oxidative notes with hints of sherry, often bolstered by some acidity to let you know they’re not really dead. It’s not at all a style I prefer, but if you’re looking for an elite Bolly RD, the 2008 is the best I’ve ever had and probably the least overtly oxidative, even young, and I think I’ve had every vintage, or almost every vintage, since the 1985.

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Come to Albany, NY. I’ve got 2 left.

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I’ll bring the ‘92!

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Have you had one recently? I have a mag, but no 750s.

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Not in years.

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Nice notes!! I’ve had 2 different bottles of 94 ZH SGN and still waiting for a 100 pointer experience. I have a couple more and hoping one of them strikes magic.

@David_Bu3ker not sure if you have had Hardy’s Mariana’s cab but that is very much in the same vein of cabernet unplugged.

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I’ve opened the Merlot, but not the Cab
yet.

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You came to Albany, California and didn’t invite me??? Oh, wait. :kissing_heart:

Thanks for all the notes. It looks like you all had a swell time!

@Luke_A - Please note the above! We need to wait a bit on the Vare


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Dave, we reminisced fondly about the “dis-MISSED” night! Thanks, guys, for all the great additional notes. Salil, I had forgotten to note down the hazelnut side of the Bollinger, but I definitely concur. And I also definitely like David’s thoughts about Cabernet Unplugged for the Beta. I know it was much too early in its life to open it, but I did and do so want to share these with people who haven’t yet tried them.

Mike

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Indeed. @Dav3_Dyr0ff Commish, you gotta make it out here some time.

And agree, glad for the chance to have tried the Beta as it’s also not something I’d usually buy or look to try on my own. Even though very young, it was delicious (and a really unusual - for me - expression of Cab in that style).

Meanwhile, a couple of the leftover glasses of the Grosset were gorgeous last night. All steel and flint and Meyer lemons, with just enough sweetness and roundness on the palate to round out the acids.

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I will mostly likely have a NYC trip next October or thereabouts. If it means finally meeting Ken V and Dave B, plus seeing you again, plus 1991 Montebello and caneles, well, I will try to extend it a night and take the train up and fly home out of Albany. I probably won’t know dates until summer but I will try to make this work.

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Wow, what a set of wines. Glad to hear 82 Figeac still holding strong.

Cheers guys!

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