At Neal Mollen’s mischievous request, I’ll post a picture of my notes from the afternoon, a splendid afternoon with him, Cole Kendall and Bob Semon. Lunch here has become a tradition now for me and my sincere thanks to Cole for arranging and for the guys to come together.
2022 Vinhas de Farrebo Bastardo Barbeito Madeira
There seems to be an underlying thematic on this trip----that people bring wines they think I’ve never tried. Certainly never had this before—a dry Madeira rose! Nose and mouth are all sour cranberry with almost-dried currant and almost a sense of VA. It puts me just a little in mind of some Musars. A fun starter.
2016 Rhys Alpine Chard
I brought this one. The guys are not chard enthusiasts. And yet all of them kept reaching for the bottle to pour just one more extra sip 
So did I. Lime and alluring minerally perfume if that makes sense. Everything is subtle. Really thrilling lemon-lime presentation dans la bouche, with definite mineral streak. But the best part is that everything is integrated. Everything intensifies with air and a bit of chilling. It’s pretty much a point right now and thrilling wine. Held its own in the august company below.
1995 Bartolo Mascarello Ca’ D Morissio Barolo Monprivato
Wow nose. Tar, pomegranate, some coriander note and very clear cocoa element. Outstanding. Just entering its second stage, a complicated purity that is hard to describe and emulate. Tannins are still very present, but it unfurls with each minute in the glass. I would love to have communed with this wine over another 3 hours. Kept changing. Magical.
2009 Capellano Barolo Pie Rupestris
Very different wine, balsam here with herbs and red berry. Also a lovely drink on the tongue, strawberry, crabapple and light baking spice. More cut to this on the acid piece, but very evocative nonetheless. Fascinating comparison
DINNER AT LE MONT ROYAL
Big thanks to Ben Homer for setting this up and for everyone to join. We welcomed newcomer Illya and his wife, Julia. Joel Davidson made it to a second tour event, and we were joined by Jeremy Robertson, Dan Schoeff, Dan Rivera and Dan S’s friend, Andy.
2014 Bonnaire Champagne
Plenty of apple turnover on nose and mouth. Tasty, the bubbles are light and flirty. Likeable without being a lot more.
Chartron-Taillet Sainte-Anne Extra Brut
Grapefruit and lemoncurd here, bracing and crisp, apple peel joins in. Juicy and stern at the same time, a real conversationalist.
2014 Thierry & Pascal Matrot Puligny La Quintessence
We talked about thoughts of what Quintessence stands for among producers there. This one stands for “super wine”. Slightly minty nuance on the sniffer, with some very light smoke adds. Great interest adds to the lime and apple. And this is a great white burg. Fine and firm attack, lovely mid-feel with some saline zap to the replays. It has something to say with each sip and doesn’t diminish through the whole evening. WOTN
2017 Jadot Duc de Magenta Chassagne Morgeots Clos de la Chapelle
Starts steady as she goes, gingerbread slivers to the pear and fresh bread aromatics. Elegant and clean, with some light lemon and lemon balm. Initially, I felt this was similar to my own last bottle of this which seemed to lack intensity. But happy surprise, that and some popcorn come aboard with some time in the glass. Ends up being very engaging white wine.
2022 Domaine Laroche Chablis Vaillons VV
Great to have a chance to taste this vintage. Somewhat on the straighforward side, admittedly, but I like the path—it’s got some talc, lemon and apple to present to me. Nice typicity to this Chablis.
1998 Navarro PN
What fun this was, and engendered the most conversation at the table. Funky a little, dried cherry and cranberry, but also lots of life at the same time. Yuh-um. Super-pretty maraschino cherry and strawberry jam. Not a meditative wine, it’s happiness in a glass. Granted, it fades out later in the evening, but what fun to drink. Terrific experience.
2014 Philippe Rossignol Gevrey Les Evocelles
This was my contrib and I got to the restaurant an hour early and decanted, so it had 2 hours of air. It needed it. Oh my—soooo Gevrey (my idea of it anyway). Dark strawberry and cherry with gamey overtones and cedar. Continues and stays firm throughout the night, and it grows more expressive as the evening goes on. Has very nice focus. I do like this vintage for red Burgundies as well as whites, and this is very good indeed.
2005 Maison Amboise Echezeaux
Very generous of Joel to bring this on top of the Matrot. We all wish it had some extra decant. It’s very tight on the bouquet, with some swirling revealing cranberry along with darker fruit and some latent spice. Everything is pretty locked, though I do get some violets to go with tart red and purple fruit underneath. If you have this, leave your bottle to sleep some more.
2012 Copain Kiser En Haut PN
Dan S. was very kind to bring a mag of this after seeing my note on the 10 Combe de Gres in Philly. So happy to be able to compare. Also a beauteous aroma, all floral, so fine with sweet raspberry and strawberry. Good stuff, darker cherry and pomegranate mix with earth and chocolate too. Very polished, just a smidge under the 10 Combe de Gres in terms of overall harmony and seductiveness but excellent wine. I think my #2 tonight.
1995 Philippe Leclerc Gevrey Les Champeaux
An older burg here, surmaturite is there, but still some game and forest floor. Palate finds black raspberry and a little bit of balsam. I did enjoy this as a still-rustic drink. There were varied opinions on this, which is always fun
2015 Domaine Guyon Vosne
Scents of plum and sweet rhubarb to this. Gives way to what is a surprisingly open and lovely Vosne expression, pretty as a picture with bright and sappy red fruit mixed with some floral elements. Attracts and pulls at you without you even being aware of it—I kept coming back for a sip or two more of this. Delish.
Again, enormous thanks for coming together, especially so close to Thanksgiving. I know this sort of gathering is for-sure a reason for me to give thanks to the generosity of this board.
Kwa Heri
Mike