TNs--Mike on Tour--Domaine D'Ardhuy, Domaine Rebourgeon and Cyrot-Buthiau

On we soldiered. After a fine lunch in a stunning spot, the Abbaye de la Bussiere in Bussiere sur Ouche (where I had a glass of 2014 Domaine Arlaud Morey St. Denis Clos Solon , open for a day. Potpourri and bright red berry and cranberry fruit. Fine attack and thread of acidity throughout with crunchy berry replays and a touch of earth. Good stuff with a long life ahead), we cantered back down for some late afternoon tastings. Our first stop today was at Domaine D’Ardhuy where we were warmly welcomed by Stephane and new winemaker Vincent. To my great delight, Vincent took us down at the end for a little barrel tasting.

DOMAINE D’ARDHUY

Still being run by the 7 sisters. They have 38 hectares now and 41 different cuvees

2014 Domaine DArdhuy NSG Aux Herbues–Aux Argillats

Interesting that it is Vincent’s preference to start with reds and then go to whites. Deep cherry and bits of baking spice here. Austere for sure, red and roots, rhubarb aplenty and pomegranate, but very high acidity. We’ll see.

2015 Domaine D’Ardhuy Pommard Les Lambots

Villages, but from 1 plot, only been bottled for a month and was 25% new oak. Rich, with plummy chestnut wafting up the glass. Quite surprisingly open, plenty of carry and depth and joyful black cherry, kirsch and a back-end of watermelon, actually. Vincent feels 2015 may be like 2009 but with a good deal more acidity and likes what he sees thus far.

2014 Domaine D’Ardhuy Clos des Langres

Their monopole, I will confess that I have never liked this cuvee. That changed today. Some mineral and even game scents alongside currant and small dark berry. One of their best of this—lovely polish to a sure iron and roasted chestnut and blackberry combo. A savoriness and even hinting at a suaveness to come, this is destined to be fine wine.

2012 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Hautes Mourottes

Leather, cocoa, dark cherry and bilberry make up the bouquet. Dans la bouche, quite graceful, almost light, but it’s persistent to with earthy and almost a saline side. Might be trying to find an identity.

2015 Domaine D’Ardhuy Ladoix 1er Cru Le Rognet

An interesting story here as this is really in the Corton Charlie block but, for whatever reason, can’t be called or classified that. 12 months and then into stainless for 6 more or so. To sniff, the purest pear and lilacs. Marvelous expressiveness. To taste, sweet–very sweet, glycerin but expressive with mango, flowers…it kinda behaves in texture like a gewurtz.

2015 Domaine D’Ardhuy Puligny Montrachet Le Trezin

Another single-plot villages classification, but this one just above Clos de la Garenne. Lilac, honeysuckle and light apple. Softer here, still with length, fruit replays. Nice polish, but hard for me to get at Puligny in character. Is it the vintage?

2014 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Charlemagne

Apple and crystalline/rock in there too, a touch of vanilla and later, a secondary scent of smoked leaves. Ohhh, this is gonna be great. It doesn’t lash at you but the balance instead shows super controlled energy, yet stability at the same time. Fine, fine flow with touches of salted vanilla in and out of nicely pure apple and pear. Will last at least a decade and a definite winner, 1 bottle purchased.

Down we went for some barrel tasting, where Vincent expounded on his approach with tonnelleries, ordering different thickness/texture of wood, maker and toast level for e.g. 3 barrels of one cuvee. (I note that 2017 will be his first full vintage).

2016 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Hautes Mourottes in 4th used Rousseau Barrel

Quiet–it’s in malo, but cocoa and a smidge of black pepper with earth. Very tangy and energetic at this stage.

2016 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Hautes Mourottes in new Rousseau barrel

Blackberry, black cherry, licorice. Still tang, but more effect of the oak has some rootiness and a higher level of acidity showing here. Still, there is stuff.

2016 Domaine D’Ardhuy Volnay in new Rousseau barrel

They pull their Volnay mainly from Champans, which is in this barrel. Some rootiness, currant, unripe pomegranate in the nose. Palate is very typical (for me), solid red fruit and tannins framed by earth and some chestnut. Promising.

2016 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Renardes in once-used Rousseau barrel

This may be done malo, certainly enough expressiveness with red and black cherry, plenty of sweet herbs and some chocolate. And oh my, lovely chocolate thread going through black forest cake base and sparks of light-spiced energy everywhere. This, even at the early stage, tastes like a thoroughbred. (to be fair, Renardes is usually one of my faves from here).

Huge thanks to Vincent for taking such time and care with us.

DOMAINE MICHEL REBOURGEON

We are staying close by and I wanted to find out about them. We were very kindly and ably helped by co-owner Delphine.

2014 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Bourgogne Blanc Cuvee Samuel

Named for her second son, light sweet lemon and apple bouquet. On the tongue, easy-drinking. No depth but tasty apple strudel is here.

2015 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Saint-Romain

50 year vines, 1 year in barrel. Quiet nose, with watered stones and flowers poking through. To taste, a bit more gingery than the Bourgogne. Needs more, but decent for what it is.

2014 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Beaune Les Chouacheux

Haven’t tried this 1er, which is right beside Boucherottes. Touches of roasted chestnut and smoky, with underlying boysenberry. For me, this shows the kind of thing I’ve seen–and liked–from Boucherottes, crunchy, chewy and tensile red fruit, this has some verve and is not bad.

2014 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Volnay 1er Cru

70% from Brouillards and 30% from Carelle sous la Chappelle. Touchy aroma here, not sure it’s in a good spot right now, maybe some tomato leaf around cherry? Better in mouth, clean in its way, with cherry and currant, though I do want more in character.

2014 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Pommard Arvelets

Seductive perfume–lovely kirsch and roses, a feminine nose. This shorts on the finish a litte, but it is composed at this early date with crunchy raspberry and cranberry and requisite interest.

2014 Domaine Michel Rebourgeon Pommard Rugiens

Nuzzie gets plum and mineral with a touch of nutmeg. As expected, this is still super-grippy, it does have length, acidity, sous-bois and red fruit. Those who like the wild child of Rugiens should be fairly pleased.

DOMAINE CYROT-BUTHIAU

Here too we were warmly welcomed by Fabienne who handed us off to the affable and capable hands of husband-winemaker Olivier. I am glad my French has gotten fairly up to speed at this point as it was needed to have best conversation with him. As with Rebourgeon, my first time trying any wines from here.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Bourgogne Blanc

In tank for 12 months, as was the Macon. From Meursault, Macon and Pouilly-Fuisse. Mustard bits in the nose, some salty maybe. Fruit forward and table-wine stuff. Easy drinking.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Macon Verze

bit more energy here, some pear pops up as a scent. A bit of grass, this is gentle and pretty on the tongue.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Pouilly-Fuisse

I noted that in our rush to get Chassagne, Puligny, St. Aubin, Meursault and CC, P-F has been left by the wayside a bit. This spent 15 months in 50% oak with 10|% being new and was a surprise. Baked goods here, but also quite floral too, with apple and pear. It’s in the mouth that I like this! Lemon and surprising nervosite for the region and year. At 15E, this is something that deserves to be in someone’s cellar—if I had more room to bring back stuff, I would have bought for sure, and Lynn and Jon did buy for the remainder of our trip to try it.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Bourgogne Rouge

Just down from Pommard for the grapes. Red fruit in and out, allspice a bit. Tangy and a juicy feel to this, unripe bing cherry and crabapple. This is OK.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Maranges 1er Cru Les Clos Rousseus

70 year vines and very young vines combined. 12 months in oak. A definite chestnut thing here. Mocha? Almost violets. Very unusual bouquet. Le gout is very tasty, attractive attack, gets to the sides of your cheeks with sweet raspberry and bilberry finish, tiny touch of heat at the back.

2015 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Santenay 1er Cru Clos Rousseau

“lighter” note–light cherry. Up-front-loaded with sour cherry and wild strawberry and then tannins kick in hard. Needs time if it does come around at all.

2011 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Volnay

Hard to get at—boysenberry and pomegranate maybe. Put it away for a while…still savage, but that clarity that I’m starting to get in the 11s. Good wine in time, has requisite structure and fruit.

2014 Domaine Cyrot-Buthiau Pommard Arvelets

Very pretty nose again, sultan’s tent spices and darker strawberry with some potpourri. Lots of bouquet. And really good mouth. Very composed and, even more so than the Rebourgeons, this is quality wine, with a lot to offer—beautiful red fruit and velvet vanilla finish. Damned good and for 30E, this is a no-brainer buy.

We finished tonight at Comptoir de Tontons, which has definitely earned its rep—my first time here and we all swooned over the food. Finishing the evening with a sip of 2005 Lucien Jacob Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru, open for 2 days and it still needed 30 minutes in the glass to finally open up with deep red berry fruit. Still rather masculine in the mouth, but biding its time yet. Leave another 5-10 years if you have any of this.

Because we added a third winery, I decided to post tonight. Marchand-Tawse, Drouhin and Taupenot-Merme are on the menu for tomorrow.

Slainte,

Mike