TNs--Mike on Tour---Dinner with Count and Friends, Nov 8, 2014

WINE TALK
1

I hadn’t seen the Count (Mikhail Lipyanskiy) in 6 years. I’m glad to say that changed last night when he and wife Svetlana hosted, and Sveta and I co-cooked, dinner for a fine group. It was a wonderful night for me.

DRAMATIS PERSONAE

Mikhail Lipyanskiy
Ben Goldberg
Svetlana Lipyanskiy
Eric Guido
Yon Restored Recorder
Diane Kessler
Alan Chan
Debra Guido
Joel Kessler
Fernando Losada (brief appearance)
Rob Hanault

I was happy to be able to bring my peach amaretto fruit soup and prepare a veal dish I like doing with white wine, butter, tarragon, lemon pepper, flour, ginger, salt and amarula liqueur. Svetlana, meanwhile, was busy making an incredible lamb, roast potatoes, salad and blessedly good strudel. Others chipped in with sausage bread, cheese selections. And a note—their son, Zach? He has talent that scares me on piano—amazing work for only being at it for a year.

THE WINES

Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Quality Brut

Quick note, this is quite dry with solid energy and length but not super-special. But that’s me—I’m only slowly being converted to Champagne

2010 F.X. Pichler Smaragd Durnsteinter Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner

White pepper and a fine floral nose—high-toned unripe pear maybe. Terrific cut and length, but it does have an Alsatian-like sweet element in the middle—Diane’s very good about identifying Gewurtz. It’s not “distracting and detracting” as I’ve found with many 07s, but it is atypical.

2004 Knoll Smaragd Ried Loibenberg Loibner Riesling

Flower-filled diesel wafts up the glass right along with lovely light apple. And to taste, this is wonderful. It’s so pure, so thrilling—dry and a mix of pink grapefruit and slight apple with a great pepper note. I can’t stop tasting it. Fantastic, shudderlicious showing, WOTN for me. Count declares that this is the be-all for Riesling. He gives it a 94 and I have no reason to disagree. This is in the WOTY discussion for me.

2012 Weitger Braunels Van Volxem Riesling

This is also good, no petrol but a sort of slightly smoked grassiness. For a Mosel, this has more balance than most I’ve tried, and less slate and petrol. The emphasis is on tart apple and some citrus, lime in particular. Not so deep, but a nice drink.

2012 Weingut Spreitzer Wisselbrunnen Riesling

Spiced apple, definitely, with pie crust notes. A lot of authority, apple and bits of melon and marzipan. Quite tasty and zippy at the back. Liked it, a surprise for me for any German Riesling.

2001 Clos des Papes CdP

The bouquet speaks to me of sweet fruit but also some subtlety. Light garrigue for sure, strawberry but darker. Le gout, this does have a level expression and closer to Rayas than, say, how Clos is making their wines these days. Still sweet strawberry and cherry edged with bits of herbs. I don’t mind this one—and that’s saying something for the Grenache-hater. A lot of the others loved this wine.

2008 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot

Ah, now this is more like it! Barely leashed earth, black licorice, tea leaves, plum and forest are all present in the nuzzie. Palate is full of energy—wicked primary presentation, great strong berry edged with mocha and chickoree. It’s just starting to stretch out and, in fact, gets more savage with time in the glass. Lots ahead of this one, I’d open the next one in 4-6 years, or maybe give this a 2-hour decant

2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Bricco Rocche

Aromatics are floral, cherry, boysenberry. Later a small raisin note. This is more open than most 04s I’ve had, it has lots of presence. Quite good.

1999 Mascarello Barolo Monprivato

Ben brought this, very nice of him. Reserved but classy bouquet. Blackcurrant and chocolate among the scents, and the chocolate is so nice. All the pieces are there, but this is not ready yet—sharp at front, sharp at back and not connected in the middle. I like the pieces though. And Ben said he left this open for a day and double-decanted. Not ready.

2010 “KMV”

Rob made this wine, out of Long Island with 71% merlot, 9% syrah, 8% PV, 7% Malbec and 5% CF. 20 year vines. A definite attractive herbaceousness with cherry, and maybe some tomato leaf. Blast of sweet up front—you can taste the syrah and the merlot, but gangly at first. It smooths out with time in the glass. A lot here for people to think about and enjoy.

1997 Querciabella Camartina

I think I picked up a dab of VA here. If so, it’s pretty low-level. Herbs, leather, coffee also make themselves known. In the mouth, it’s OK, but something’s not quite right, can’t put my finger on it but it does lack authority and sense of style.

2009 Copain Kiser en Haut Pinot Noir

Alan threw this in for us to try, he had coravined it 1 or 2 months ago. And the bouquet is still reserved. Raspberry and perhaps mulberry leaf? Good acidity and length on the tongue, raspberry fruit. I might like it to get to some more levels of expression though.

Don Salvador Lopez Hermanos Malaga Moscato

Tran, I thought of you! This was an incredible treat that Mikhail presented to us—the bottles are next to impossible to source. It is prepared like solera, he says. Oooohhh----walnut oil and maple sugar and almonds. Dessert all by itself, and one doesn’t really want to taste it. This is really dreamy to smell. Coffee crisp joins in the symphony. But then one does taste it. Aaaahhh. Very, very smooth, yet delineated at the same time. Baked sugar and buttertart. Terrific stuff, my #2.

A bientot, j’espere—it was so nice to have more time with Count, who I had only met briefly in a public setting previously. This time we had much more time to discourse on books, cooking ,philosophy and education and a little bit of politics.

Again, a lovely night!

Mike

2

Great notes, Mike. It was a pleasure to meet you and enjoy your cooking, piano playing, and wines. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

Ben

3

My pleasure as well, Ben, and I hope it won’t be too long before we get together again. Many thanks for coming out and enjoying the evening with us.

Mike

4

MIKE ON TOUR - THE COUNT’S MANOR - (11/9/2014)

Thanks to Mike for making this happen - and glad to open our doors to such an amazing group of people. Glad to see Fernando, Eric and Deb, Diane and Joel, Alan, Ben and Rob!
We had some amazing cheeses and meats, Mike’s fruit soup was stunning. Then the lamb and veal with the reds - cannot think of a better pairing.
Honestly - a great night with excellent wine, amazing food and even better company.

Mike - don’t forget - this house is always open to friends!

Whites
to me - the Knoll was the winner tonight. in 5-10 years? hard to say - both of the germans were young.
The Pichler was interesting but not at all what i expected to find.

  • 2010 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Rich, with auslese feel to it and decent RS. Rich green with gold color. bit unusual for a gruner - more like an Alsace Gewurz. (thx Diane and Mike) apricot and pear, spices over the lush mid. touch of bitter/botrytis note. long finish. this was interesting but unexpected. (91 pts.)
  • 2004 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibner Loibenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    One of the best Austrian wines i have had. It was showing better than the 2008 F X Pichler Loibner i had a few weeks ago and the 2001 Alzinger - though to be fair, both of those were younger and i think would get here with age. Floral, spicy, touch of petrol, ripe but bone dry, grapefruit playing with apples and pears. silky finish. just a great mature riesling showing its colors. (94 pts.)
  • 2012 Van Volxem Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    grassy, floral notes but also some yeastiness, masculine nose. pink grapefruit in mid, still a bit rough - i would say 5 years would do it good. sleek, spatlese weight in mid, just a prickle of RS on finish but it fades away dry and smoky. Excellent acidity and the ripe core of apple/citrus will make this wine shine in a bit of time. (92 pts.)
  • 2012 Weingut Spreitzer Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheingau
    floral notes on the nose, but the slate and power comes in to remind that this is a Rheingau. green papaya, touch of tropical note, long tangy finish with a touch of RS to balance. Give this time though - and it will shine. (93 pts.)

Rhone
two amazing wine at the opposite sides of the aging curve. The Clos was just perfect - hitting the point of maturity and showing all its got. The Cornas needed time - and badly. It was almost physically painful to kill such a baby!

  • 2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Stunner. minerality, herbs, garrique, meaty, ripe but not lush - rather it is clean and the red/black fruit are balanced by lovely acidity. Spice box on the nose and palate. long finish with plum and pepper. Mature but still years away from stopping. Secondary notes dominate, but I find quite sufficient primary fruit here as well. excellent CDP. (95 pts.)
  • 2008 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
    this is just painfully young. So much potential here - but it hurts to drink it. Sweet plum, floral, olives, meat. ripe mid with black fruit and even hints of chocolate. Tannic and brooding. finish is there but feels closed. a baby - probably amazing with a decade or two? (92 pts.)

Barolo
these two did not disappoint!
love Piedmont - and both of the wines show why.

  • 2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    sweet cherry, floral, hint of oak, light sleek mid with great power. touch of forest floor and mushrooms developing. this is very young but very pretty. Loads of red fruit and spices on the finish. I liked this a lot. (93 pts.)
  • 1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    DAMN. soy, cherry, mushroom, ripe but absolutely clean mid. sweaty cherry fruit with a kick of acid. power under the hood waiting to burst open. unending finish. a stunning example - and one that will age. silky, full of cherries and strawberries, earthy… just damn good. (96 pts.)

the Copain was a half bottle (coravin-ed) that Alan brough

  • 2010 KVM Project - USA, New York, Long Island, North Fork
    ripe plums, rich, long mid. boysenberry notes, still tannic on finish. touch of minerality and herbs. needed more time - this was a “lets just open this” moment and… oh well it was still yummy! even better on the next day (having some now) (92 pts.)
  • 1997 Querciabella Camartina - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Better today. last night this was very tight - today more open, with good plum notes and some meat. hints of iron. medium finish. nice mature example. (91 pts.)
  • 2009 Copain Pinot Noir “En Haut” Kiser - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    spices, black cherry and ripe red fruit. touch of bitter edge on the mid/finish. This felt a bit ripe to me - though the fruit was clean and well balanced. Big wine - almost syrah notes. bit hard to judge with the company of wines before it. (91 pts.)

I bought this in spain years ago - with the help of Jesus B. last bttl of the moscatel. still have one PX left form the producer.
these Malaga wines are something truly special. And sadly - impossible to get.

  • NV Lopez Hermanos Málaga Don Salvador - Spain, Andalucía, Málaga
    love this. so sad that these wines are the last of a dying/dead breed. raisin, toffee, hint of orange, almonds, sweet but with great acidity. lovely stuff. goodnight, old friend. (94 pts.)

thanks again guys.
Posted from CellarTracker

5

It was a wonderful evening and Mikhail and Svetlana were extremely warm and welcoming. Thank you for hosting.

Mike, after several missed opportunities, I’m glad this one worked. It was a pleasure meeting you. I agree with your tasting notes. I have been holding onto the Knoll since it was released, and that is a rarity for me. Austrian whites have always been too good to save, but this one evaded me, and this was the right group of people with whom to share it. To me, a complete wine.

I think it was Eric who said something to the effect that when Barolo is on the table, why bother with anything else. I would agree with that as long as there is no Bordeaux on the table. However, I really enjoyed the 2001 Clos des Papes and the 2008 Allemand, but for different reasons. Not a bad bottle on the table - food was delicious and company was great.

Mike, safe travels.

6

thx Diane! it was great to see you guys!

7

Mike, it was great to meet you. Really enjoyed the fruit soup and your piano playing too, as bonuses to enjoying your company.

Big thanks of course also to Mikhail and Sveta for being wonderful hosts - the food was terrific, and you make everyone feel so welcome in your home. Great to meet Zach and hear him play some songs for us as well.

And of course, great to see old friends like Ben and Diane and make some new ones too. Eric, from your posts in the last week alone, I want your life!

I finally got the time to put together my notes - not taken at the time, but from memory now. Here they are - CT seems to have automatically arranged them in descending order of score - anyone know how to change the settings to order them into order of entry into CT?

  • 1999 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/9/2014)
    This tasting of this wine was a lesson in how context is so important. Earlier in the year, I tasted this in a flight of very high level Barolo and while I liked it plenty, I had it as 3rd favorite out of 4. Tonight, allowed to shine on its own merits, this tastes like a world-beater. Classy red-fruited Barolo in a nuanced style, this shows harmony and beautifully delineated fruit, leather and earth. Wines like this are why I drink wine. (95 pts.)
  • NV Lopez Hermanos Málaga Don Salvador - Spain, Andalucía, Málaga (11/9/2014)
    Silky smooth, pleasing and harmonious. A lovely cap to the evening; in the conversation for WOTN together with the Monprivato. 94-95 (94 pts.)
  • 2001 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (11/9/2014)
    A great example of why CDP is so hard to pick out double-blind for me - had this been served blind, the mix of a slight soy sauce character and earth on the nose might have led me toward Bordeaux with 20-25 years of age on it. The exotic spice on the nose certainly points toward Rhone but I could have squared it with a Bordeaux that shows that quality sometimes, like Tertre Roteboeuf.

On the palate, however, this was clearly a Rhone, if a slightly Burgundy-styled one. There’s delineation here, not heavy at all. Love CDP in this style in vintages like this. A terrific wine. 93+ (93 pts.)

  • 2004 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibner Loibenberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (11/9/2014)
    Another fantastic nose - petrol, florals. Don’t recall specific notes on the palate but this was dry and lovely, a complete wine. 92-93 (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (11/9/2014)
    The moment you stick your nose in the glass, you know you are in the Northern Rhone - herby exotic spice abounds. On the palate this is pretty primary but the texture is surprisingly smooth. Delicious wine that reminded me that it’s far too long since I’ve had some Allemand. Being more of a Northern Rhone guy, I might’ve preferred this slightly to the Clos des Papes, but this is not quite as accomplished a wine, at least at this point. A joy to drink nonetheless. 92+ (92 pts.)
  • 2010 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau (11/9/2014)
    The nose on this was intoxicating - ripe orchard fruits and a touch of petrol and mineral. I could have smelled this all night long. On the palate, this was atypically rich for a gruner for some of the group but I appreciated this as a differently delicious expression of the grape. (92 pts.)
  • 2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (11/9/2014)
    Dark-fruited and primary, with a healthy amount of oak showing at this point. Nonetheless, the quality of the fruit here makes this enjoyable if a shade too young to consume. A bottle of the 2001 tasted last year had shed the oak and primary fruit fairly well, and I see no reason why this won’t blossom in the same way given the quality of the material. 91 now, with a + for what I expect will be considerable upside for the future. Hold for five years minimum if you can, and I suspect you will be rewarded. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Van Volxem Wiltinger Braunfels Riesling - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (11/9/2014)
    A very typical and pretty 2012, showing transparency to the florals and orchard fruit, with hardly any petrol on the nose at this point. On the palate, lively and balanced. (91 pts.)
  • 2012 Weingut Spreitzer Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheingau (11/9/2014)
    The nose to me is very Rheingau - light with pronounced notes of white flowers, apples and pears. Reminds me of some Robert Weil 2012s tasted last year. Pretty but my predisposition toward MSR wines leads me to prefer the more concentrated flavors of the Van Volxem. (90 pts.)
  • NV Ployez-Jacquemart Champagne Extra Quality Brut - France, Champagne (11/9/2014)
    Tasted quickly so not rating this, but it was nicely crisp and refreshing.
8

That sounds like a great evening with a fantastic set of wines. Thanks everyone for sharing your notes.

9

Glad to have you here :slight_smile: first of many i hope!

10

Wow. Reading this thread makes me bitterly jealous. As much as I love going out to find dining and drinking awesome wine, it’s even better doing it with homemade food in someone’s house. Glad everyone had a good time and thanks for treating my wine mentor/corrupter so well.

I really wish I hadn’t read about the Don Salvador. Ignorance truly was bliss. PX Sherry gets all the attention but IMHO Moscatel sherry is much, much better. There’s something about the sherry winemaking and solera process that really brings out the acidity in what is otherwise a very floral and sweet grape that makes a sometimes cloying and one-dimensional drink. It definitely edges out PX sherry in that regard.

Mike, how on earth did you bring your peach soup with you and how did it survive the long trek enough to actually make it to an American dinner table intact?!? Yes, that peach amaretto soup is definitely Mr. Grammer’s trademark. I’ve had it and am not the least bit surprised that you all enjoyed it.

11

Tran - what’s worse is that it was a Malaga… and, while Jerez and Montilla will hopefully survive and thrive again, Malaga is likely a thing of the past :frowning: I have a PX from Lopez Hermanos as well (Don Juan). but that is all i have left. Every one of the bottles was quite good though. only happy memories.

12

btw i agree on Moscatel - Valdespino Moscatel Toneles is one of the few wines that i have given 100 to. and twice!

13

Top-end big thermos, Tran, and kept it fridged at each stop on my trip. There was just enough for everyone to get a decent taste. Alan and Count, many thanks for your excellent counterpoint notes.