TNs: Gouges, Sammarco, Damoy, Shaya

WINE TALK
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Sort of a weird collection of wines I know . . .
Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St.-Georges 2005 (375):
I found a way to solve the problem that usually rears its head with Gouges, namely that they never seem to be ready. Drink them out of half bottles! Its not like this was a revelation or anything but it sure was nice to drink something from this Domaine that was sort of in its prime. A spirited nose, dense and composed of sappy black fruits and some game and a touch of fur. A good bit of acid creeps through the middle, while a nice balance of black plums, bramble, damp earth, roasted herbs, pine combs and minerals all focus together in just the way I imagine a good '05 NSG might. The wine finishes well, with good length and vigor and possesses the strength to carry on for a long time, even in the format. 90 points

Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco Vino da Tavola 2003:
Inky color/garnet rim . . . slighty sweet, confectunary nose, although there is a bit of underlying tobacco and graphite. In the mouth the wine yeilds a mix of cedar, red curant, licorice and smokey qualities. Sort of unyeilding in the beginning and kind of not fun to drink. Returning to it later the wine appears more polished and fruit appears more in the forefront, and a bit more sweet. The wine still seems to lack something in the middle and certainly something at the end, where its tannins do nothing but dry your mouth to the point of feeling dehydrated. Perhaps this will improve with time and more integration, perhaps it will always be somewhat lacking. It is tough to tell and frankly a tough sell at its price given the success of subquent vintages and the success of this winery’s peers. 89 points
Pierre Damoy Bourgogne 2006:
Good color and a fresh, vibrant nose. Packed with sweet, red fruits, mostly black cherries. Springy acidity keeps this wine moving nicely. I think I should, at least based on this showing and a few others, check out more wines from this producer. 87 points
Bodegas Y Vinedos Shaya Verdejo 2008:
Absolutely one of favorite value summer whites so far. Great nose, full of citrus zest and a dash of minerals. Rich and chalky, with a bit of toasted nuts, some stone fruits, excellent crispness and a real freshness that sticks with you. Fantastic and refreshing, especially if you live somewhere hot and humid. 90 points

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[cheers.gif] Spot on!

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There seems to be canon among burgheads that gouges is never ready. I think his wines have big structures and are always on the darker fruitier side of the spectrum but never ready? People laugh at you if you had a '99 '96 '90 '74, whatever Gouges drinking well. Just like the “down period” at de Vogue. Some great great wines were made during the down period. Even wine lovers like to pigeonhole things to make them more easier.

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John,
Thanks for the interesting notes on these.

Lyle,
I love Gouges, the greatest Nuits producer in my book, and don’t mind drinking them young as I love structured wines. But I’ve still never had a mature one (although I think I only go back to '88, maybe I’m forgetting one or two though, come to think of it I’m remembering an '83 that was more resolved). Which younger ones do you think are ready? I’ll admit that I’m one of those burgheads who love them but even at 15-20, don’t think the better vintages are ready yet. I bought some '00s and liked them on release but haven’t had them since. Maybe I should check back in on those. All I know is that I bought them for my kids as birthyear wines ('02 and '06) because I’ll be happy if they’re kind enough to drink them with me down the line.

Cheers,
-Robert