TNs: Fontaine-Gagnard, Ruinart

Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée 2005:
A nose composed of exotic melons and crushed stones, maybe a little pears. Citrus peel and smashed honeysuckle, along with spiced ginger(?) swirls in the background like a cloud of perfumed smoke. There is some acidic twang that picks at my tongue like a needle point. And copious amounts of viscous, waxy flavors in middle. In the end you are left pondering too little- bits of peach, liquid stone and lemon wedge- for only fleeting moments is this wine a true gem and for that I can only hope cellaring it will bring out more complexity, more depth. But it has gained a little vigor since my last encounter with it five months ago . . . hope remains! 90 points

Dom Ruinart Dom Ruinart Brut Vintage 1998:
Fresh and vibrant, with focused fruit flavors- peach, apricot and grapefruit- and a deep core of minerals and chalk. Beautiful color, excellent bubbles and wonderful aromatics. This Champagne is invigorating. Finishes with a pleasant breath of smoke and lemon rind. This really reels you in. 93 points