TNs: fabulous Barolos/ Barbarescos

Our dinner group dined at the tasty Italian restaurant, Ca Dario, and not only did we eat well, we drank extremely well. In fact, this was one stellar night where every wine showed up to please and many were excellent to uber excellent. The 11 of us thoroughly enjoyed:

2002 AR LENOBLE BLANC de BLANC- I`ve had a few of this bubbly and none were better; this was delightfully crisp with fine acidity and beautifully graced with nice citrus notes with an emphasis on lemon-lime; on a rather warm Santa Barbara evening, it was a treat to sip this and at the same time, prepare our palates for the plethora of wines to follow; served righteously as our foreplay for the complete satisfaction that followed.

2002 HENRI BOILLOT CORON CHARLEMAGNE- another star amongst stars from this producer from this vintage and fortunately, not premoxed as the apprehension sat in for some in advance of tasting it, especially the one who brought it; the most distinguishing characteristic for me was the incredible mouthfeel; it was creamy and lush and carried nice apple, pear and citrus across the mid palate all the way to the back end.

2001 GAJA BARBARESCO- another wine I`ve enjoyed a few bottles of and this is approaching the zenith of its wow factor potential; it started out in a mild place and moved into full on and intense statement with lots of serious fruit with depth and complexity and then reverted back into a more mild expression; one commented the oak element was dominate; I searched again and did not get it; I loved the dark chocolate, black cherry notes that prevailed.

2004 PAITIN di PASQUERO- ELIA SORI PAITIN VECCHIE VIGNE BARBARESCO- power and excellence exude from the aromatics on through; this is marvelous Nebbiolo and so approachable now; each taste served to invite more exploration and I obliged and found a welcomed richness and complexity all being delivered in a smooth, silky texture; a complete treat.

2007 PRODUTTORI del BARBARESCO PAJE RISERVA BARBARESCO- the one who brought it stated it came from a co-op in Barbaresco named above; decent, nice fruit notes with a hit of spice at the end, some earthiness throughout; it worked well with the duck lasagna served as an appetizer.

2007 PUNSET BARBARESCO- a total package; rich with lots of depth, very soft and smooth, offering the epitome of tactile gratification, wonderful fruit profile including black berry/ currant and blueberry notes; nicely balanced and a structure to support longevity for years and years to come; one of my favs among so many on the night.

2004 PODERI LUIGI EINAUDI BAROLO- very good wine, big and bold with finesse, heavily extracted black cherry especially stands out with a touch of chocolate and vanilla; it hit my palate in such a pleasant manner and I kept going back to it looking to see if it could sustain the pleasure and it just got better; orgasmic stuff.

1999 ROBERTO VOERZIO LA SERRA BAROLO- a Leonardo Lacascio selection; the first thing that is apparent, it is very dry from the outset to the finish; there`s some black currant, tobacco and a little smoke comes in at the end; other than its astringency, the wine is quite quaffable.

1999 DOMENICO CLERICO PERCRISTINA BAROLO- serious wild intense cherry on top of serious wild intense cherry almost mindful of Smith Brothers cough drops of old; this is eventually enhanced with some black cherry and currant notes that help significantly; it has a strong backbone of tannins and promises to evolve for years to come; this is a good and different profile for Nebbiolo and when all is said and done, it is a very good experience. I had remnants of this bottle 2 days later and the wild cherry was displaced by more of the cherry/ currant flavors and the amount of sediment in the bottom of the bottle was ¼ inch thick; definitely decant this with a filter.

2006 ETTORE GERMANO LAZZARITO RISERVA BAROLO- now back to Nebbiolo in its more predictable state; tar and roses join in with an abundance of fresh red and black fruit; it`s silky, velvety texture offers a sensory tactile treat and the wine just shines with class and elegance.

1990 BRUNO GIACOSA le ROCCHE del FALLETTO di SERRALANGA BAROLO- elegant; its not big, but it sure does shine; beautiful balance, harmony and class all in one; its so smooth and easy on the palate, it just glides on and through; the tactile pleasure is enough to satisfy, but the complete magnificence of this wine is one to treasure as ones top wines of the year.
1999 BRUNO GIACOSA le ROCCHE del FALLETTO di SERRALANGA BAROLO- this is nice and balanced and very tasty; unfortunately, it followed a fabulous 1990 version that for me was the WOTN among many WOTN candidates.

2003 SUDUIRAUT SAUTERNES- 375 ml.; the WOW factor goes up a notch with this beauty; great acidity, thick and creamy, redolent with honeyed floral and stone fruit, it glides over the palate and hits all of the senses full on.

1998 KRACHER WELSHRIESLING TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE NO.11- 375 ml.; dark maple color, super thick, rich and sticky; perfumed, intense and concentrated honeyed cinnamon peach and apricot; I think you get the picture; this is serious liquid dessert in a glass.

The buzz after this was all over was palpable. Smiles and gratification were evident and the frequently voiced “I could do this every night” phrase echoed from one end of the table to the other.

Cheers,
Blake
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Blake,

Great notes on a great night!

FWIW, my impressions of the wines . . .

2002 Lenoble Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc: pleasant enough starter; bright, nice fruit; however, I was too excited by the Italian beauties to follow to pay it much attention

2002 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne: palate coating glycerin-like fruit with an uplifting beam of minerality and acid; delicious

2004 Poderi Luigi Einuadi Langhe: a fun wine; dark, rich and opulent; the most Cali-like of all the wines and a nice entry into the reds
2001 Gaja Barbaresco: the nose is full of exotic spice and cinnamon; the mouth-feel is velvety smooth and conjures up soft and beautiful layers of crushed purple flowers; elegant, yet at the same time unbelievably complex; constantly evolving and revealing new nuisance; abundant black and red licorice predominate the extremely long finish, seemed liked it lasted for minutes; one vote for WOTN
2007 Produttori del Barbaresco “Paje” Riserva: a nice silky smooth easily accessible and easy drinking wine with some drying tannins on the finish; nothing wrong, just out-classed on this night
2007 Punset Barbaresco: a revelation; never had this producer before; impressive; bright red fruit and anise explode from the glass followed by rich chocolate on a long finish; delicious
2004 Paitin Sori Paitin “Vecchie Vigne” Barbaresco: second time around with this bottling, and this showed just as well as the first time; extremely effusive nose leading to precise and well delineated red fruit and berries, so rich and concentrated that Jolly Rancher candy comes to mind; roses and a hint of new leather add to the complexity of this extremely beautiful wine; to top it off, the finish lingers on and on
1999 Clerico “Percristina”: a true wow wine; off the charts concentrated waxy dark fruit; blackberries, dark purple fruit, menthol, pine and forest floor all come together in a vibrant concoction; long finish of black licorice; still so young; hard to believe it is sixteen years old
1999 Roberto Voerzio “La Serra” Barolo: yet another stunning wine full of rich opulent smooth dark fruit as well as bright red licorice, Asian spices and cinnamon; one vote for WOTN
2006 Ettore Germano “Lazzartio” Barolo Riserva: feminine profile of dried roses and cherries, with new leather; an extremely well made and nice wine which gained weight and complexity over the next few nights
1990 Giacosa Falletto Barolo: mine and the group’s WOTN; ethereal; one of the prettiest wines I’ve experienced; the flavors float across the palate; incredible
1999 Giacosa “Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga” Barolo: so soft, smooth and beautiful, full of delicate red fruit and red floral notes; just a hair behind the 1990 in brilliance

Just when you think the night cannot get any better . . .

2003 Suduiraut: spun sugar and cotton candy, light as air yet full of concentrated flavor; impeccable balance; an incredible sticky that is pretty hard to beat, unless of course it is followed by a Kracher #11 with some age on it . . .
1998 Kracher Welchriesling TBA #11 Zischen Den Seen: unbe-fricken-lievable! rich unctuous honey-like elixir that somehow is no way cloying; layers of amber\orange complexity; amazing

Thanks for the notes.
Intrigued by Punset. Is this a traditional producer? Anyone else tried other vintages/bottlings?

Quite a line-up!

I’ve never had the Percristina, so I looked it up on Clerico’s web site. This sees 36 months in barriques, 80% new, which definitely puts at the extreme end of oak treatment in the region – or anywhere. In addition, it’s kept on the skins in a roto-fermenter for 20-30 days. Typically, roto-fermenters are used to speed up the time on the skins so as not to extract too much tannin. So, all around, unusual winemaking on this one.

Daniel, The winery was new to me and at least to Henry who posted his notes after mine. I was impressed enough with the wine we had and intrigued to know more and looked them up. To learn more about this winery, here`s a link: http://www.organicwine.com.au/Winery.aspx?WYID=104#story

[quote=“H Bongiovi”]Blake,

Great notes on a great night!

FWIW, my impressions of the wines . . .

Henry, thanks for joining in. I always appreciate your comments and like how we appraise wine comparatively, most of the time very similarly and in this case, even more so. Also, it`s always good to have label information as complete and accurate as possible and here again, we achieve that goal. You are always welcomed to add on. As I see it, it really serves to enhance the learning process for me.

Cheers my friend

I bought Percristina for a few years–98, 99, 2000, until I realized that the wines were very heavily oaked. they got great reviews from reviewers (eg Tanzer), but I finally realized that, although I generally like Steve’s assessments, he avoids mentioning oak for some reason for the most part in any of his reviews.

Thanks John for the additional input. Very interesting viniification.

John, I found it interesting to see the length and time in new oak especially when I did not detect any nuances of such and apparently, according to Henrys notes, neither did he. Im going for the experience this wine provided. It was stellar.

One more pic:
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Who’s who in the pix?

At the risk of revealing names without permission:

In the last pic: On the left, Dave Yates, Assistant winemaker for Jaffurs Winery in the middle, Steve Wayne of Renegade Wines and on the right, David Goldmuntz, an avid collector.

Other pix included Fred Brander of Brander Winery, Dennis Ferguson of Winehound Wine Shop and formerly of the Wine Cask Wine Shop, Bill Bowles, collector, Tom Van Meter, collector.

All great guys.