TNs: Dinner with Soldera, Rayas, Coche-Dury, Rousseau, Ornellaia and more

2008 Ulysse Collin Champagne Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Roises - France, Champagne
October 2012 disgorgement. One of my favourite grower-producers. Touched by nutty oak, with honey, vanilla, apple, pear and chalk. The minerality and acidity cut a path through the honey tinged fruit, with fantastic balance for my taste. 92/100


2003 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis
Toasty lemon, with sesame, honeycomb and florals. This took time to open up but was really very pleasant once it had. Rich on the palate but has control as well. Medium length and good flow. 90/100


2011 Coche-Dury Meursault - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Lot #3. Lemon scented, with flint, ginger, grapefruit and musky florals. Initially feels slightly broad on the palate but it focusses back in quite superbly toward the mid palate and finish - ending up with a feeling of precision. Plenty going on with this wine. 91/100


2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Complex aromas of spice, graphite, meat, floral and truffle notes. The tannins are ultra fine and they prop up the delicious red fruit. Composed and has fantastic length. Really lovely already. 93/100


2004 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin
Served blind. Vanilla oak, cinnamon, rhubarb and plum with a herbal edge to it. Black cherry fruit on the palate provides a certain roundness and while the herbal notes come through too they are interesting rather than distracting. Medium length, good texture, nice wine! 91/100


2006 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Côte-Rôtie La Madinière - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Menthol/eucalyptus, kirsch, some bretty type notes with plenty of oak and licorice. Rich on the palate with nice spice interwoven. The tannin is prominent and works well with the richness of the fruit. Very good. 90/100


2008 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Lovely perfume - garrigue, strawberry, earthy and peppery spice with a touch of stem and perfumed red fruits. Very restrained palate, has very fine acidity with the light red fruit. A serious wine is here behind all the perfume and appeal. Came back to a small glass after two hours and it was singing. 93/100


2006 Azienda Agricola Valentini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
What an idiosyncratic wine. Coffee, musk, licorice, blackcurrant, some herbs and cola. Superb energy, there is sweet black fruit that is cut through by sizzling acidity. Had great length and interest, really shining with food. Constantly changed and evolved in the glass. A great experience. 92/100


1999 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Five spice, rose, licorice, tar and light chocolate aromas. Like the initial intensity on the palate, it is bold and the fruit has a tinge of richness to it, but it feels very well balanced. Excellent even now and has potential to develop for another 10 years or so. 93/100


1994 Soldera (Az. Agr. Case Basse) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
A fantastic nose - smoke, black tea leaves, rich red cherry, five spice, graphite and iron. The palate is brilliant, I wished my glass would never end. The detail and texture is outrageously good. Lovely balance between fruit and tannin - it is really drinking superbly well. Fantastic!! 96/100


2006 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
Mint, truffle, camphor, raspberry, kirsch and raspberry aromas - building layer upon layer each time you go back to it. Powerful, driven palate with acidity keeping it bright. Really needs another 10 years as it is all power and only slight nuance on the palate at the moment. 92/100


1995 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Lemon, orange, grapefruit and even some sulphur still remains. Very dry feeling for an Auslese, there is great fruit purity and freshness. Not really showing any development, this is good but very very young. 90/100


My favourite two dishes on the night (The Bentley restaurant in Sydney);

Scampi + Shaved Lettuce + Avocado

Pork Cheek + Garlic and Yoghurt Puree + Radicchio + Jamon

Cam,

Thanks for the notes. Wow that Soldera sounds nice. Someday…


Cheers,
Doug

Totally mouthwatering line up of wines there - nicely done!

Great notes Cam. You guys really know how to drink.

Is that Rayas for aging ?

Thanks for the notes. The 94 Soldera Riserva is an amazing wine.

what a great line up. yay for the 94 Soldera- a great wine.

Well there ain’t any grade inflation chez Cam.

That’s for sure.

Those are some tough, tough scores for some very $$$s wines.

I had Rayas 08 from cask, and it´s an amazing effort for this (smaller) vintage, no problem for the next 12-15 years, not dissimilar to the 1997 (which was the 1st Emmanuel Reynauf vinified totally himself - and which is a fine experience now).

BTW: I had a stunning 1999 2 days ago … almost on peak, but fine for the next 5-10 years still … at least when cellared perfectly.

I’d agree with this, medium term, say 10 or so years should certainly still have it showing well - that a splash of it opened so well in the glass after a few hours definitely gives me hope.

I try to be consistent - the Soldera should make my top 10 of the year, and if it doesn’t I will have had one hell of a year!

US pricing was stupid on the 08 Rayas and Pignan, but the 08 Ch. des Tours CdR (released 2 years earlier) was so good I bought a tiny amount of the big ones anyway.

Well if you ever decide to Parkerize your scores, then just add five points.

Or if the idea of a 101 point wine strikes you as just a little too tawdry, then add four points and an “!!!”.

Hi Cam,

Thanks for posting, sounds like a great set of wines.

Question about the Rousseau CSJ: this sounded pretty open for business for such a young wine, did you get any sense of it going into a shell during the night? I have heard that some red burg 2006’s have not shut down and are still enjoyable in a youthful way?

I have some 2006 Rousseau’s and would like to give one a try…

Cheers Brodie

Thanks for sharing.

How was the food? Do they now offer byo?

Food was a mix of highs and lows, there was nothing outright bad as such but like the old location I sometimes feel that if the food were a little less inventive it would often result in something more tasty.

On BYO, I think it would be by special arrangement only rather than a standard option - it was also the middle of the week which may have helped.

Sorry, missed this before - I’ve had the CsJ a couple of times in the last 6 months and thought it was very open both times, it was so tasty that the bottle didn’t last super long in either case!