2004 Marcel Deiss Burg
This was quite stunning stuff. Jumps from the glass with apple and toasted butterscotch combination, together with a fine ginger hit. On the tongue, it’s shaped yet vibrant, picks up wisps of tropical fruit and some pear notes, along with the aromatic replays. I think this is in prime drinking window and was a delight from first sip to last. Probably WOTW (wine of the weekend), for me, 2004 was a grand year for Alsace.
2011 Cline Ancient Vines Mourvedre
While I’ve had happy experiences with this wine in the past, this doesn’t qualify as one of them. On the nose, only get some brambly and somewhat sour red fruit, and none of the extra coffee and spice notes I might have expected. This tastes heavily oaked and has some lashing acids to the red fruit, leaving an impression of excessive leanness. Maybe it’s too young, but I haven’t found that to be a problem with these in the past. All I’ll say is that if it is at all representative of the vintage, I can look forward to sublime balance in the better cabs perhaps. Won’t be buying any more of this, though. And matching up with burgers didn’t make things better.
2007 J-M Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vau de Vey
Quite pure lemon, chalk and seashell scents waft up the nuzzie. This is archetypal Chablis dans la bouche, with more lemon, a pinch of stoniness and a touch of salinity, yet all very, very clean and lively. A very good example.
2009 Domaine D’Ardhuy Corton Les Hautes Mourottes
I know this is early, but I wanted to try one of these to see if I want to get more. I think I will. Rich red cherries and darker strawberries combine with cocoa nibs and light spices and earth on the bouquet. Palate finds it still a touch on the brawny side and sorting itself out, but with much promise—that promise filled with dark red fruit, terrific aspect of roasted coffee and a very firm minerality and iron component. I do think this has the structure to last over quite some time and get markedly better. One for the cellar for now, leave these be for 3-4 years at least.
2005 Domaine de Baumard Quarts de Chaumes
My friend Mary, we had to celebrate her 82nd birthday properly. She loves Vouvray. I had asked my confidante on these wines, Brad Kane, whether it was safe to open this so soon. He assured me that it was, and he wasn’t wrong. The aroma explodes into your sniffer with all manner of citrus fruit, honeysuckle, lanolin and underpinning of apple. At first, I found this to be somewhat simple in the mouth, and maybe a touch over-sweet. However, all it needed was some time in the glass to really start to shine. After 2 hours, it had gained fine complexity, with a Dijon mustard side that was quite compelling to go with the sweet citrus and star fruit. I am really quite excited to try the leftovers today to see how it will have evolved over a day. A real treat, glad I have had the chance to try this—only my second QdC, I think.
Haere ra,
Mike