I got a few Combe aux Moines and Lavaux-St.-Jacques from Dee Vine’s blowout of the 2006 Rene Leclercs posted on here recently. Unfortunately I missed out on the Griotte.
I opened the two premier crus side-by-side the other day. The Burghound note says the Combe aux Moines is a bona fide vieilles vignes bottling from ~80-year-old vines, and it turns out the extra degree of character you expect from that kind of material was fully evident in the comparison. Both wines were extremely lean in a way that comes a little too close to the border between “elegant” and “vacant.” But the Combe aux Moines had a little more tannic grit to the texture and a complementary sensation of crushed rocks on the back that might have succeeded in putting it on the right side of that line - it had almost a 2001 vintage character to it, and could turn into a really nice bottle of Gevrey if it can develop tertiary flavor without hollowing out.
The Lavaux was simply fruited with a mild candy-cane/licorice scent and flavor that seemed almost as though you had extracted the top notes and part of the mid-range from a Russian River Valley pinot noir. Here it’s not so much further development but a total transformation it needs if it’s going to turn into something interesting. Right now it doesn’t offer anything you wouldn’t expect to find in a generic AOC Bourgogne rouge. I guess that’s fair at the Bourgogne rouge price Dee Vine sold it at, but I certainly wouldn’t be a buyer anywhere close to its usual figure. The Combe aux Moines, on the other hand, I’m happy to have another 2 bottles of to see what happens.
Thanks for the notes Keith. I picked up each of the 1er crus, but haven’t tried them yet. I have to wonder what happened between Meadow’s tasting and Dee Vine’s fire sale. Did Leclerc filter the hell out of wine? Something else go wrong in the elevage? Did Meadows just make a mistake?
I drank a Champeaux shortly after arrival. Thin and dilute, but otherwise with decent character and certainly drinkable. I’ve had worse 1er Cru wines, but I’ve also had better village and bourgogne wines, and I wouldn’t seek this one out again, regardless of price, not enough there to really engage.
I missed Dee’s offering, but got a case of the 2005 moines from K&L at a reduced price. I am curious about the potential thinness issue. Do you have any idea yet how long you’re going to let your bottles age for? I haven’t had mine shipped yet, but it should like I should pop one as soon as they arrive to see what’s going on.
Have you had wines from Leclerc before? He seems like an interesting guy, but I have no prior experience with his juice.
I don’t have a hell of a lot of experience with Rene Leclerc. (I think Philippe is the more interesting Leclerc.) I’d describe the style as old school in both the good ways and the bad ways. Good in the sense that they are obviously not made in the modern steroidal style that fetishizes size and weight. Bad in the sense that they appear to have been left behind by the renaissance of quality improvements that have happened in Burgundy in the '90s and '00s.
The 06s I’ve opened all have had some bretty notes to them … but not to excess. I like a little brett, though, since I think it adds complexity that I enjoy. So take that for what it’s worth.
You know, I heard that and was looking for it and didnt smell any brett. Not saying you didnt but I was suprised I didnt cause Im usually fairly put-off by it.