CHAMPAGNES AND RIESLINGS AT CUTLERY OPTIONAL - (22/3/2024)
- 2000 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses - France, Champagne
Golden colour. Oscillated between Chardonnay and Pinot but landed on the latter when the red fruit emerged with air. Similar impressions to before - oxidative house style was evident with integrated oak use, some hazelnut notes. Not normally a fan of CDG but this was harmonious with impressive length (and also not oxidised). (93 pts.) - 1999 De Sousa et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée des Caudalies Millésimé - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Thought this and the Philipponnat were similar in age and style despite being a BDB. Golden in colour, leaner than the CDG with less refinement and sharper, more prominent alcohol. (91 pts.) - 2005 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Dizy Corne Bautray Extra-Brut - France, Champagne
Another oxidative champagne which I think led most to guess a Pinot dominant blend. But there was an austerity that made me guess it as Chardonnay dominant instead. Fruit lacked vibrancy, so I guessed a weaker vintage from the 2000s. Powerful but rather monotone overall. (89 pts.) - NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru VP - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged July 2021, 84 months on lees so 2013 base by my calculations? Despite the long lees ageing, this was fresh, vibrant with fantastic acidity and lift. Spicy, rich and round, texturally very complete. Most guessed house but when it was revealed to be a grower, could only be Egly. (94 pts.) - NV Stroebel Champagne Triptyque - France, Champagne
Brought for a friend. Blend of 2017-2016-2014, zero dosage. I didn’t blind this and I think some were biased by the label which didn’t do the wine any favours! A little funky at first but blew off, definitely wasn’t too out there. Oxidative red fruit, good purity but ultimately a little simple. Good buy at under $90, but not worth more. (92 pts.) - NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle Iteration 25 Grande Cuvée - France, Champagne
Have been on my list to try for a while since I heard this iteration was a knockout, so thankful for the friend who brought this. Signature ‘08 acidity was at the forefront with white orchard and green apple fruit and some yeasty notes. So tight and unyielding, not very pleasurable at the moment even though it has good potential. (92 pts.) - 2017 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs - Germany, Rheinhessen
Popped and poured. Similar to previous impressions of pear and tropical fruit, but this was rather acidic and strict compared to the previous BTG Coravin sample at 67PM which was a lot more expressive. Needs a lot more time. (91 pts.) - 2017 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Auslese - Germany, Rheinhessen
My contribution, opened in advance in the morning for dinner. Outstanding balance between sweetness and acidity, honeyed citrus fruit with fantastic purity and drive. Obviously still young, but so gulpable now. (94 pts.) - 2021 La Porte Saint Jean Saumur-Champigny - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny
Brought as an extra. Typical pyrazines and earthiness on the nose that led some to correctly guess Loire Cab Franc. Also had a little brett that blew off with time. Ripe violet fruit despite the greenness on the nose, but acidity stuck out for this vintage. (89 pts.)
Two similar low-intervention Chardonnays side-by-side.
- 2020 Domaine des Marnes Blanches Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Les Molates - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (23/3/2024)
@IlkkaL’s note below captures this wine perfectly. Slightly cloudy, unfiltered colour. Good balance between ripe, slightly tropical fruit and Jura acidity/salinity. Enjoyed the freshness on this so would be inclined to drink this on the younger side. (91 pts.) - 2021 Domaine Robert-Denogent Mâcon-Villages Les Sardines - France, Burgundy, Mâconnais, Mâcon-Villages (23/3/2024)
A mix from Mâcon, Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. Slightly cloudy, unfiltered colour. Creamy citrus and green apple fruit, but acidity was on the high side. (90 pts.)
A cool line up and great looking food too! I really really like the Egly VP and somehow its price has not rocketed ss badly as others in the range. Somehow Jacqueson has never managed to amaze me. Would love to try the Keller Auslese, sounds awesome.
