In anticipation of a trip to Champagne this fall, and in the trip’s aftermath, I tried to explore the region–where my experience had been (and still is) somewhat limited… Here’s some of what I found–there were many others that I neglected to take notes on. Nearly all of these were very satisfying–so much so that Champagne has assumed the number 2 spot on my buying/drinking hierarchy, behind Burgundy…
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1998 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Upon tasting this, my wife immediately remarked, “This tastes like Raveneau!” She was spot on, except this tastes like a frozen, chiseled, sharply angular version of Grand Cru Chablis. Like young Chablis, the minerality here attacks like a dagger. Pure expression of Chardonnay that screams class. Light, vigorous, richly fruited, and intensely mineral, this wine doesn’t quit and leaves a lasting impression. I can’t wait to try the 96. (94 pts.) -
1996 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé Grand Cru - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Very good juice, but not as exciting as the Dom Ruinart BdB. Like no other rose sparkler I’ve had, this had the precision and elegance of a BdB with the pinot noir providing little more than a counterpoint of depth and red fruit. Fascinating wine and one I’d like to have more than a taste of. Didn’t blow me away, but this is a unique expression of rose Champagne and a lovely drink. (91 pts.) -
N.V. Ruinart Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (8/30/2009)
Almost clear in the glass. Nose of lemon zest opens up to a creamy, lemony, medium-bodied palate of fruit. Well balanced. Medium finish. (89 pts.) -
2002 Vilmart Champagne Grand Cellier d’Or 1er Cru - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
This is full throttle Champagne. Very rich, tons of depth. Toast, citrus, and red berries. Nice sweetness and a bit creamy. Very long finish and quite elegant. Has tons of potential and should improve (93 pts.) -
2003 Vilmart Champagne Grand Cellier d’Or 1er Cru - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Terrific juice. Intense, deep, and very rich. Creamy fruit and a bit of toast fill the palate but the wine remains light and vigorous due to its strong acidity. Not quite as magnificent as the 2002, but great nonetheless. (91 pts.) -
N.V. Vilmart Champagne Grand Cellier - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Good wine in the Vilmart style. Intense fruit (citrus and apples) and significant depth–the oak is perfectly integrated and gives this some complexity. Nice minerality and long finish. Dialed down a bit from the vintage Grand Cellier–but not much, and I’d love to make this my house Champagne if I could find it for ex-cellar prices in the US. (90 pts.) -
2002 H. Billiot Champagne Brut - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne (9/6/2009)
Terrific wine. Aggressive nose of citrus, spices, and some yeast. On the palate, this is quite large-scaled, rich, and very intense. Slightly oxidative fruit and cinnamon. Very long finish. Not quite as elegant as some, but really nice. (92 pts.) -
N.V. Camille Saves Champagne Brut Grand Cru Rosé - France, Champagne (9/4/2009)
Very nice rose. Salmon in the glass, the nose reveals iced raspberries and citrus aromas. Strawberries and sweet fruit dominate the medium-bodied, refreshing palate. Great acidity. Not enough intrigue and depth to place it among my favorites, but a very solid rose. (89 pts.) -
1996 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz - France, Champagne (9/3/2009)
Exceptionally good. Mature nose is unmistakably baked apple with a touch of caramel and whiff of oxidation. On the palate this has matured nicely and is showing some secondary nuttiness and depth to go along with the youthful fruit and acidity. This expands and gains complexity with air. Surprisingly mature, this is in a great place right now–as it straddles the line, offering the vivacity of young Champagne with the balance and depth of mature bubbly. Opened by a friend and I will be seeking this out. (94 pts.) -
N.V. Jérôme Prévost La Closerie Les Beguines - France, Champagne (11/30/2009)
Upon opening, this wine is muted and a bit harsh. Very dry and very muted. But with air, it blossoms and shows mandarin oranges and tart red berries on the nose. The palate yields citrus, green apples, and subtle minerality. Strong acidity and aggressive bubbles. Gains depth with more air. This is a very good bottle of bubbly–impeccably balanced, nice minerals, and admirable focus. It doesn’t have the inner core of sweet fruit or the intensity of some of my favorite grower Champagnes. Nevertheless, distinctive and worth your time. I almost recommend decanting this. (91 pts.) -
2002 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Réserve Millésimée - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Nice wine. The depth of the Pinot Noir and the richness of the vintage make this a tasty, well-balanced Champagne. Lacking the intensity, complexity, and character of better wines of the vintage, though. I like the style here. (88 pts.) -
2004 Philipponnat Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (10/24/2009)
Nice but muted. Elegant but lacking intensity and depth. Quite pure expression of Chardonnay. (86 pts.) -
N.V. Leclaire Gaspard Champagne Blanc de Blanc Grande Reserve - France, Champagne (9/11/2009)
Intense nose of citrus and fall fruit. Nice depth on the palate is kept vigorous by citrus, acidity, and some red fruits that makes this wine irresistible. Long finish. Gets substantially better with air. Not mindblowing, but nearly perfect for what it is. (91 pts.) -
N.V. Charles Heidsieck Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (8/30/2009)
Great NV champagne QPR. Citrus and a bit of toast on the nose. Intense flavor despite the light-to-medium body of this wine. Brioche and lemon on the palate with bright acidity. A bit simple. Quite good. (90 pts.) -
N.V. Cedric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Roses de Jeanne “Les Ursules” - France, Champagne (8/12/2009)
Consistent with last bottle. Ethereal and utterly weightless–with an unparalleled intensity of flavor and underlying sweetness that takes this over the top. Acidic, complex, and complete. (94 pts.)
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