TNS: Burgundies

Just returned from France, where I drank lots and lots of Burgundy. The following are some of the bottles I drank, notes are from memory:

1998 MARCHAND-GRILLOT RUCHOTTES-CHAMBERTIN
Slight bricking. Intense aromas of damp earth, dark fruit, game and truffles. Medium-bodied and concentrated, with mouth-filling flavors of dark cherries and minerals. Good acidity and balance, some tannins sneak in on a long finish. Good potential for the future.
First time with this producer for me.

2008 JAFFELIN-JAUFFRET NSG 1er CRU VV
Dark ruby. Not close to drinking. After 3 hours, hints of soil, dark fruit and iron emerge on the nose. Fruit flavors stain the palate on a medium finish. Seems to have good underlying material. First time with this producer for me.

2008 DOMINIQUE GALLOIS LA COMBE AUX MOINES
Dark ruby. Expressive nose of damp soil, dark cherries, flowers and hints of meat. Good concentration of dark fruit in the mouth bolstered by fine acidity. Structure and new oak evident on a medium finish. Five years or so should round this out.

2000 DOMAINE LEROY CHAMBERTIN
Starting to brick. Intense and complex bouquet of damp earth, black fruit, game, minerals and spice. The perfume is just mesmerizing, unfolding in layers that did not quit even after three hours. The spice notes are especially prominent, a signature of the domaine. Palate staining flavors of dark cherries and spice that persist on a long finish. Astounding length. Silky texture and superb balance enhances the palate impression. Marriage of power and elegance. A joy to drink, giving both pleasure and reflection. Having enjoyed virtually the entire range of Leroy’s 2000s many times, I don’t think they ever shut down.

1969 ROUSSEAU CHAMBERTIN
Bricking throughout. Profound bouquet of damp earth, truffles, game, and red fruits. Very difficult to keep my nose out of the glass. Perfume is more subtle than powerful but doesn’t let up. Pure, elegant and round, the sweet red fruit grips the palate and lingers. What did I ever do to deserve this. Impeccable balance, good acidity and a satiny texture. Fully mature, and well-stored bottles will continue to drink well for years.
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