TNs: Burgundies at Wine Club with 2010 F. Esmonins

Wine Club Santa Clara had a Burgundy tasting today including three of Frederic Esmonin’s 2010s.

2009 Roux Pere et Fils Saint Aubin 1er Cru La Pucelle: A little sulfur in the nose with orange peel and chalk; a bit of alcohol showing as well. Citrus and apple flavors with some mineral notes. Crisp enough but just a bit hot. Not bad but needed to be served a little cooler to avoid the heat.

2009 Christian Moreau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon: This was more serious with more sulfur and a strong mineral component in the nose. Nice structure with firm acid backbone. Plenty of fruit, clearly not a lean year Chablis. Good length with a stony lemon finish.

2009 Domain Moillard Volnay Clos des Chenes: Pretty light red color. Plump red fruit nose with a variety of stony notes coming out over time in the glass. A touch of cedary wood but nothing in the way. Not heavy but definitely in the 2009 style: Fairly low acid and a bit of heat. I would chill it a bit and I think it would drink quite well.

2010 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin Clos Prieur: Light transparent purple. Subtle aromas, pretty closed really, but what I could coax out was nicely floral with a little citrus. This nose was very shy and more delicate compared to the 2009 last year, but the wine really delivered on the palate with a floral, earthy character. After the 2009 Volnay it really stood out with its crisp, minerally fruit, candied citrus and a bit of herb. Really attractive, nicely balanced wine; fun to drink.

2010 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles Saint Jacques: Darker purple. Bigger nose, much more open, with a bit of spicy wood. More serious wine with more weight. Seemingly not as much acid as the Clos Prieur, but it is there hidden under more layers of fruit. A lot of spicy complexity in the midrange, and a fair amount of soft tannin. Great drink. I had already purchased a few of these on pre-arrival after reading Bill Nanson’s comments about this wine (not 2010 specifically but Esmonin’s Estournelles in general).

2010 Frederic Esmonin Grand Cru Ruchottes-Chambertin: Similar color to the Estournelles. More stemmy/spicy character on the nose, and darker toned. Additional layers of extract and fruit but no hint of over-ripeness. More wood evident as well but not a distraction. As with the Estournelles, the tannin and acid is there but doesn’t jump out at you. I would wait on this wine as I think it has a lot to give but could use some time to put everything in place. It seemed a bit more like a barrel sample than the others.

2006 Nicolas Potel Grand Cru Charmes-Chambertin: Medium red/purple. Clearly more age on the nose than the previous wines, has shed the young grapiness and is showing more of a brick and baking spice and slightly meaty character. Quite light on its feet with a firm structure. I caught a bit of wood character on the palate that makes me wonder if this is in an in-between stage. Notes on CT seem more attractive from a few years back.

2009 Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers: Medium purple, the darkest wine in the tasting. Very nice mineral/spice nose with a little sawn wood. Rich texture and super flavor. This is unapologetically a 2009 with its ripeness and weight, but has all the class of Chevillon. Drinking really well now but should have a long future.

Thanks: interesting data on F. Esmonin, about whose wines one reads varying assessments.

Craig, Thanks for the notes. The Lavaux Saint Jacques also seriously good. The best vintage for the 1er’s I have seen, great wine, great value. BTW I have bought the 2011’s already, a bit of a joke with the importer who has paid for them and offered me silly prices, they may well be here before some of the 09’s and 10’s. Cheers Mike

Mike, did you mean Estournelles or have you heard separately about the Lavaux? WC had only these three.

BTW, in 2009 the F. Esmonin Hautes Cotes de Nuits was fantastic for $20. While the Clos Prieur was a little muscular, the HCdN was very ethereal, still the only 2009 I’ve had that captured that particular quality of Burgundy. I haven’t seen anything about HCdN for 2010.

Only bought the 1er’s and GC in 2010. Tried them all, the Lavaux I thought equally good as the Estournelles in bottle, not far behind the GC’s… as you say the GC’s “more like barrel samples”. Cheers Mike

What’d your guy say about the 2011s, Mike?

Anyone have opinions on 2009 Estournelles St. Jacques? I noticed it was still available locally around the same price as the 2010 (which was $48 at Wine Club).

Frederic thinks they are very good was his answer [basic-smile.gif]

I think the 2010 is better, the 09 does not have the same energy.