BEAT THE '96 ROUSSEAU - (27/11/2022)
Theme was to beat the Rousseau and even though all of the wines were playing at a very high level, the Rousseau and the Pousse d’Or were the two that stole my heart. Everyone quickly identified that these two were the top wines of the lunch but think I was the only one who had enough faith in Gerard Potel’s golden touch to put the Volnay as one of them (didn’t get anything else right except for the Fourrier, mind), but I got them the wrong way round as I pegged my favourite to be the Rousseau which turned out to be the Pousse d’Or. Am always thankful whenever I get to try wines that are so good that they’re wish-you-were-here kind of wines, and then there were two during this lunch!
-
2015 Savart Champagne Premier Cru Les Noues - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
A confusing one - the colour was almost rose-like that made me think a Pinot-heavy champagne, but the high acidity which emerged with air in the glass led me to think it might have a Chardonnay-dominant blend as well. Rich and weighty fruit, clearly from a warmer vintage, but with precision and acidity which is very much the maker’s style according to the person who brought this. Gourmand champagne that was very enjoyable. (93 pts.) -
1999 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Very similar to the 2002 that I had last month. This was a little tighter with bigger and warmer dark red fruit, but with similar notes of soy, forest floor and mushroom. Again, not the sexy, modern Fourrier for sure but a proper old-school, masculine Burgundy. (93 pts.) -
2002 Domaine Jean Grivot Echezeaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Unfortunately very corked. NR (flawed) -
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Was between this and the Pousse d’Or for my favourite of the lunch. Wonderfully fresh, perfumed nose with a slight hint of earth. The best makers have this supreme elegance about them and the ability to make wines with fine, filigreed tannins. Seamless finish. A real treat to have tried this. (95 pts.) -
1996 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Took some time to open up but when it did this was very good. Old-school Gevrey with meaty, savoury notes. Became more silky and layered with air. Curiously it had a similar nose to Laurent wines, I guess this must have seen quite a bit of toasty oak that has integrated with age. (94 pts.) -
1998 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Quite an interesting wine, never had a Burgundy that presented such obvious honey and red date notes. Sweet on the palate but with tea-like tannins. Some noted that this became a little oxidised with air. Preferred the 2002 that I had a couple of months ago (91 pts.) -
1995 La Pousse d’Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos des 60 Ouvrées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
My contribution and I was very excited to try my first Gerard Potel wine. When blinded this was clearly my favourite so I thought that this must have been the Rousseau. Wonderfully ripe and seductive nose with a hint of cola, pure but powerful dark red fruit was seamlessly integrated. Both this and the Rousseau had the magic that very few producers can achieve. All I can say is that I loved this wine, pretty much my idea of a perfect aged Burgundy. (96 pts.) -
2008 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Never the biggest fan of Ponsot and this seemed rather advanced for its age given we couldn’t tell that this was younger compared to the mid-90s wines. Distinct cola spice, some earthy and plummy notes. For their supposed best wine this wasn’t in the same league as some of the other wines. Given that the younger Ponsot CDLRs are mammoth beasts I am surprised that it has evolved into something so mellow and unremarkable. (90 pts.)
