The irrepressible Serge Larin was at last back in town for a visit from Mexico. Serge is a dear friend to a number of us on the board, and 4 of us were able to convene in Burlington to meet up with him for dinner. The service from Jamie at La Costa Nuova was exemplary. Liked the deep-fried octopus dish, not as enthralled with the risotto, excellent beef tenderloin. David He, Brian Pattrick and Chris McCart were able to join in. My thanks to Chris for arranging everything with the restaurant.
WINES
2005 Aubert Lauren Chardonnay
Really smoking matchstick and lit gunflint here, very Chevalier Montrachet to be blunt. Sweet corn underneath and lots of almond paste. Mm-mmmmm good. So like a Chevy, with bales of white pepper, sweet mustard, touch of banana. But each sip is remarkably crisp and bright with the nuttiness flowing through. As focussed a wine as I’ve had from Aubert, this loses nothing over a few hours in the glass. Instead, it picks up accents of sour cream and ginger ale later, and much later lemon and a fabulous vanilla ice cream side come through. Brian declared this worthy of a 95 and I think I have no problem with that. I think, much as I love my Ritchies, that this is THE best wine I’ve ever had from Aubert, early-line entrant for WOTY, certainly WOTN tonight. I think it may be nearing the end of its best drinkability window, though, perhaps another 2 years.
2003 Malivoire Moira’s Vineyard Chardonnay
SOME of us finished the Aubert before the octopus even arrived, so we needed another white. I do remember that this was a particularly good year for this wine and wondered how it would stand up after 9 years, so we ordered it off the list. Some sniffs of nectarine and a real floral/perfume component is there now which didn’t exist previously. Palate has a cool-feeling lychee presence, with an after-impression of key lime pie. Very nice, we all agree, though I wouldn’t chance holding this past the end of this year.
2000 Poderi Colla Barolo Dardi Le Rose Bussia
Rich but reserved scents of forest, brambles, cherry and sour plum. To taste, plenty of potential—plenty—but it’s on separate levels right now, the front of the tongue getting burst of strawberry and the back of the throat getting leather and spice without harmonization or flow just yet. That starts to poke through much later, but it is a young wine yet. Quite good.
1996 Dante Rivetti Barbaresco Bricco de Neueis Riserva
Damned tight. Quite present leathery nose with touches of tar, blackcurrant and maybe walnut. But le gout—still…very…tight. Great structure and tannins, but hard right now to fish out the currant fruit and spice, though both were there. I’d say this needs at least a decade. Chris opened it at 1 p.m., see his comments below, and it sat in a decanter for another 3 hours or so.
1996 Massolino Barolo Vigna Rionda Riserva
This has finesse and charm on the bouquet, flowers and a walnut-port edge to black fruit, especially black strawberry. Like the others tonight, gangly at the moment. Brighter fruit and still with nuts. Also some crushed flowers, this stands out for its lovely velvety mouthfeel. Some perfumed aftertaste. Good.
1999 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo
Smells just wonderful. Dark chocolate, some espresso, plum, blackberry, a bit of chai tea and some demerara sugar all make their presence known. This has a much longer way to go on the palate, has a peaty bite to it right now, with some tar aspect. Lots and lots of potential, with black strawberry, black raspberry and blueberry. Needs lots of time, but #2 tonight for me.
1996 Elio Grasso Barolo Vendemmia
A very interesting beast. Funk and tar and merde greet the nose. A little molasses and some rich plum lurk underneath. To taste, a striking mesquite side to this that doesn’t go away. Sweet blueberry and blackberry act as counterpoint. More sparkle and some red fruit emerge with time, but that mesquite side…don’t know what to make of that. Certainly unusual.
1994 Warre’s VP
Open for a day, Jamie very kindly brought this to us for us to try. Tempting aromatics of dried berries, slight raisin and definite mocha hint. Very pretty, with florals, bits of chocolate, ripe plum and bit of date, I think. It really needs another day, but very smooth and pretty.