These reds were paired with duck as I think the '98 vintage in particular goes well with game.
'98 Vogue Musigny-
Very complex and maturing nose of earthy red cherry and iron. I like the juxtaposition of mature secondary aromas and less ripe freshness. Like many '98s there is a combination of broadness, precision and concentration here. While I have had major questions about the winemaking style of this domaine post '88, this wine is not dullish (like the early '90s wines) or Bordeaux-ish. Instead it is balanced and Burgundian, with some sweetish oak on the finish, and still improving. Overall, I don’t find it as exciting as the price might suggest, but it is a fine bottle of Burgundy that is still getting better.
'97 Lafon Volnay Clos des Chenes-
Riper nose with more toasty oak artifacts. While Lafon’s reds are often too modern in style (extracted and oaky) for me, I think they were particularly successful in '97 (like many others with similar technique). This wine is ripe and sweet with a touch of earthy elegance but it is quite harmonious which seems rare in this vintage. It is ready to drink though the oak can use a few more years and the balance should allow it to continue to improve.