TNs: 90 Chapelle, 98 Cheval Blanc and 02 Jadot Chev. Dem.

WINE TALK
1

Went to Bourbon Steak in the DC Four Seasons last weekend…we had about 7 bottles, but three stood out and were worth reporting on. The Jadot was opened and served…I thought afterward that it probably could have benefited from air as it got better in glass. The Cheval and Chapelle were each opened and double decanted four hours prior to service.

2002 Jadot Chevalier Montrachet les Demoiselles – On this evening it outclassed every other white on the table. I’ve had this wine on several occasions and this, by far, was the finest bottle. The color is still almost clear – like the color of first free run apple juice – with just a tinge of chartreuse. The nose was a kaleidoscope of textbook chevy stuff…lime, minerals, citrus and some submissive note of toasty oak. On the palate, similar flavors, just with big concentrated flavors of stone fruits (notably peach), chalk, flint, hazelnut, etc. Great structure with some years to go. 96 points.

1998 Chateau Cheval Blanc – Wow, what an under-rated vintage for Cheval, although some are picking up on it more and more. I think that, in addition to Petrus, Cheval made a perfect wine in 1998. I believe the concoction fell along the typical 55% (CF)/45% (Merlot) mix, but I haven’t researched it. Deeply colored plum, a lovely nose, refined and precise, with depth and complexity. Notes of coriander, cinnamon and chocolate, with some background minty thing going on. Densely concentrated on the palate with layers of exotic, ripe fruit (leaning to the black fruit profile with some red fruit in the background). Perfectly balanced and precise and beautifully structured, with the telltale silkiness…not a hard edge in site. Seamless finish. Unbelievably long and smooth. I’m a convert. 100 points.

1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle – Another “wow” wine in a completely different way. As bowled over as I was by the Cheval and its structure, precision and pure silkiness, this experience was driven by the huge, absolutely huge, mouthfeel of this wine. I’ve had this wine three times…once when it was far too young and impenetrable…and sadly so. But right now, it is open for business. And, at the same time, has decades – maybe even a half century – ahead of it. When I had the 78 five years ago, I thought it was the finest Rhone I’ve ever had, but I could see the 1990 besting it going forward. The color of this wine was opaque black with some purple at the rim. The nose was awesome with black fruit, wet earth, forest floor and grilled meat. The main thing that you react to when the wine hits your palate is its size…it has unreal concentration of sweet fruit. It is perfectly balanced, and the tannins have softened a good bit from the last time I tasted it. The finish was monumental. I’m glad I have two more bottles and a mag, courtesy of the good purveyor Max M. 100 points.

2

Barry,
Thanks for TN. I also thought the 98 CB is perpect when I had it at the Chateau.

3

While I haven’t had the 98 Ausone or Cheval, I believe the vintage was simply superb for Cab Franc heavy wines, especially those that could balance the exoticism of the merlot with the wonderful aromatic freshness of mature cab franc. It’s no wonder that Pavie and Ausone are planting more CF. Fantastic set of wines!

4

Thanks for this. I have a reasonable stash of the 98 CB but was assuming they would need many more years yet. Guess I should try one.

5

Thanks for the note on the 1990 Jab. La Chapelle. Every time I’ve tasted it, it’s been far too young, so it’s good to see that it might finally be coming around.

Bruce

6

Dan,
This wine is ready to go. During a lunch at Chaval Blanc. It is interesting to note that they served the 2000 before the 1998.

2000 Cheval Blanc
Flower, fresh blue fruit, jammy, very mineral, mushroom, truffle, earth, coconut, very complex nose to say the least. The wine is in perfect balance, so pleasurable to drink and has extremely long finish. Perhaps in strange way, it reminds me Le Chambertin from Denis Mortet. 100 pts

1998 Cheval Blanc
Even more flower, incredible amount of mineral, mushroom, truffle, earth, coconut, pepper, cedar just incredibly complex nose. The scale of this wine is even bigger than the 00. Perfect in everyway. 100 pts

7

This note is killing me - I have only one bottle, and I’m trying to resist!

8

I always thought the '98 Cheval was very good, even great, but it has never reaches the heights of the OP or Kevin’s notes. I have liked it, thus far anyway, a touch better than the '00. Both wines are fantastic. Thanks for the notes.

9

Great wines and equally great notes. The 98 Cheval blanc has always been a wine i really wanted to taste. Ive had the 90 La Chapelle once, around 18 months ago, and for my palate, I thought it was 10+ years away from the beginning of its drinking window. It was outstanding and a real treat to taste, but I reckon it will have much more to say in 10+ years.

Todd, with only one bottle, I would keep your hands off!

10

15 years ago I bought 4 of the 1990 Chapelle. About $50 per, BTW. I had the first about ten years ago and was off. It wasn’t bad but wasn’t special. The tried another less than a year later and it was and still is the only bottle of wine I’ve ever had that I could possibly say was the best bottle of wine I’ve ever had. I’ve got two left.

11

I’ve only had two 1990 La Chapelle’s. The most recent, last year, was very good. The first, a few years ago was the best bottle of my life so far. I’ve also had a 1978, that while truly excellent, was just short of that 1990. I’m confident my best Pinot is ahead of me. I fear my best Syrah is in the past.

12

The 2000 Cheval is the single best wine I have ever had. I would love to try the 98 as I have heard it is as good. I have also heard people say the same thing about the 90 La Chapelle. I have never had it, but I do have a 89 in the cellar.