TNs: 2014 Chablis Summer Matinee/Pool Party

Thanks for the great summary and barely-adequate notes Tran :grin: Just kidding, of course. I did not take any formal notes and so this will be more impressions in nature but definitely wanted to add my deep thanks to Peter and Nasrin for their generosity and to all the participants for making it a very special day. Peter wanted to do this last year and was unable to do so—as it happens, the extra year probably did the wines some good.

The 2016 Bott Geyl Galets Oligocene PN , I got the sour cherry and very slight bitterness that Tran identifies. A nice, composed drink on the whole. Both Walter and I have had dim views on Leaning Post as a winery, but the 2017 Leaning Post PN was an OK summery pinot, also nice and light on its feet.

I have had rather mixed results with the 2012 Pearl Morissette Cuvee Madeleine Cab Franc. This one was OK (one was very good, another was an alcoholic mess), had some good carry and overall balance, but not sure I’d pick out CF as what it was. Has some sweeter fruit. As Tran says, the Huia 2017 BdB he brought, from NZ, was enjoyable in an easygoing way. I liked my quick taste of the Jil Acaries NV BdB. The 2010 Ernest Burn PG was indeed a surprising sugar bomb, especially from this vintage. It wasn’t limpid or sappy, just extroardinarily sweet. The 2014 Jaffelin Chambolle was, unfortunately, rather ordinary. It would pass as a Bourgogne. Doesn’t make the grade as a Chambolle.

I spent a bit more attention on and time with the various Chablis. I must admit that many of the 1er Crus in the initial set were more retiring than I expected and missing some energy. Of the Montees, the 2014 Fevre Chablis Montee de Tonnere stood apart, it did indeed have an extra level of there to it, with a slightly creamy feel but still holding forth as a Chablis in taste. The Dauvissat–I think I only tried the Montmains. It makes it very clear how much of a difference there is between R&S Dauvissat and Vincent. Not much to see here.

Unlike Tran, I quite enjoyed the crispness and verve of both Billaud-SImon offerings. I think they are real value in terms of typicity. I remember mildly liking the Besson and feeling the Simmonet-Febvre was solid as well.

The 2014 Jean Marc Brocard Vau de Vey was my contribution (most of the Chablis was supplied by Peter) and it was quite granular in texture, but good and true lime, apple skin and mineral flavours.

Tran didn’t comment on the 2014 Vrignaud Chablis Fourchaume but it was excellent, among the best from a plot I don’t usually care for. It was a bottle that was drained early so others must have thought the same.

I had to leave the event early, so Peter was very kind to give me a “sneak preview” of the Grand Crus and the Forets. I can confirm that the Dauvissat was indeed a Foret.

I didn’t taste the Chanson Preuses or the Christian Moreau Les Clos 'cause I have both of those bottles myself. The 2014 Louis Moreau Chablis Les Clos, a house I’ve thought little of, was probably the biggest pleasant surprise of the day. Full of life and character, it definitely spoke to me of top-end Chablis. The 2014 Domaine Servin Chablis Blanchots was dialed in and will have a very long life ahead. It was outstanding and will only get better.

Having said that, it was clear to me that, even tasting them earlier than the crowd, the Dauvissat and the Raveneau were the class of the litter. Today, I gave the win to the 2014 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis La Foret I said to Peter, “THIS is Chablis”. And it was–quintessential Chablis, beautiful controlled chalk, touches of green apple and salt and just an overall mesmerizing presentation filled with class. The 2014 Raveneau Chablis La Foret will be the best of them, but it is still an infant—and that was with Peter having opened it the night before (!) I told him it still needed at least an hour’s decant and maybe with air time later in the day it did come around. But the silky power of the stuff is something that no one else can quite achieve, it seems. The promise is huge and the wine should easily last 20-30 years.