Peter Lauer 2009 Barrel X
Really impressive stuff, but not until the leftovers have sat overnight – on the first day it’s fairly in line with a typical M-S-R profile, slightly less sweet-tasting than a typical predicate wine but not significantly so and not really all that remarkable. On the next day it’s brimming with complexity and more in line with the Lauer profile I’m familiar with, paler fruit with just a twist of something bright and tropical and an intensely vivid stoniness. It also has some more advanced gasoline scents along with a whack of sulfur that actually gives it a kinda appealing whiff of gunpowder rather than an unappetizing stink. Pretty awesome value here, and in a screwcap.
Peter Lauer 2009 Ayler Kupp “Senior” Fass 6
Definitely a thicker, riper wine than the 2008 vintage, and therefore not quite as well-suited to carefree guzzling, but it’s delicious just the same. Positively glows with bright yellow fruits in the pineapple/tropical side of the riesling spectrum and once again seems to have the perfect Goldilocks amount of sugar – it tastes essentially trocken but there is enough sugar to add some friendliness and sustain without dulling any of the edges or blurring its finely pixelated detail.
Peter Lauer 2009 Ayler Kupp “Unterstenbersch” Fass 12
Well well well. In contrast to the 2008 vintage, where I found the Senior so utterly joyous and fun that the Unterstenbersch wasn’t quite as impressive in comparison, this vintage of the Fass 12 has so much deliciousness and detail that it’s trumping the Senior right now in terms of both excitement and intrigue. It’s deep but still full of energy and packed with so much oscillating detail it’s like drinking the Mandelbrot set. A wide spectrum of aromatics combines a flinty, gunsmoke minerality with savory, brothy fruit. But even with those deep tones it still glistens on the palate with its angular, jewel-cut texture and finishes with a crunch. Per usual it’s essentially dry-tasting with just the bare minimum of sugar to make it come across happy – giddily happy – and not austere.
Lauer are fantastic. When I first tasted through the Mosel Wine Merchant portfolio, these immediately jumped out to me. Every subsequent experience has only reinforced this. Looking forward to hanging out with Dan next week.
Keith, you got me pining for my 2009 Faß 12s to come in!. I loved the first bottle of the 2009 Faß 6 I had the other day.
I don’t know if you saw where I’ve had a couple of the 2008 Faß 12 lately and have really loved them. My first experience was very similar to yours (3 bottles) good but not great, I took a risk and bought another 12 pack and they were decidedly better. I think I’ve had three or four bottles from the new case and they are approaching what you are describing for the 2009.
I agree. It’s not like I ever disliked the '08 but in comparison to the Senior it just wasn’t at the same level of excitement, at least when I first had it. Over a few more bottles over the course of the last year, though, the gap really narrowed.