TNs: 2009 Anthill AV, 2008 Bouchard Volnay Clos des Chenes

I went to Crush in Manhattan with the intention of picking up the Bouchard, which was pretty universally well received (WS93, BH91-93, RP91-92) and selling for a fair price. Unfortunately, my eye wandered and I spotted the characteristic Anthill label nearby. I was surprised to see the 2009 already at retail as I don’t think they’ve shipped from the mailing list yet, and since I passed (somewhat reluctantly) on the spring mailer, I let the saleswoman talk me into buying this, as unfortunately, they did not have any of the Peters or Tina Marie. Here’s my impression of the two wines, drank side by side over 3 evenings (Bouchard) or 1 (AH). The Bouchard is pretty good stuff, and if indicative of the quality of the 2008 vintage in Burgundy, I will be looking for some value buys once the inevitably overpriced 2009’s hit the market.

  • 2009 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (3/17/2011)
    This is a nice pinot, but I continue to be somewhat underwhelmed by Anthill’s basic AV blend. For the extra $8-10, the single vineyards are a big step up in quality IMO. If this were selling for ~$25, like Copain’s Tous Ensemble, Rivers-Marie’s Sonoma, Alesia Sonoma Coast, or Pali’s neighborhood series, I would call this a good value, but for around ~$35, I’m not impressed. This was purchased from Crush as I passed on my allocation, then felt some buyer’s remorse. So what about the wine… On the nose, characteristic AV sous-bois, along with black raspberry, and some violets/floral notes. On the palate, tending more toward the black than red fruit end of the spectrum, medium bodied, elegant, soft almost, and lacking the verve of the best Anthill wines. Pleasant, but tastes somewhat diluted, and lacks complexity. Will hold the remaining half bottle to see if it improves on day 2, as this could certainly be suffering from some bottle shock. (88 pts.)
  • 2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru (3/16/2011)
    A lovely floral nose with hints of bay leaf/thyme and stone. Wild strawberry, with herbal and mineral nuances on the palate, with great persistence on the back end. Medium-bodied, very pretty, and drinking well right now. Decent acid structure suggests this should hold for several years, but this is probably not an ager. The long finish is probably the best feature of this wine. Good but not excellent value at $44. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

cheers,
scott

Thanks for the notes, Scott. I like both wines, but have not had either in these vintages. I have the Anthill coming soon.

Might be surprised. That long finish on the Bouchard should give it a good few years…