Tasting at the wine bar last night of these 3 and made sure I got there since the 2007s were just released, we just put in our order across the board and we are visiting Produttori in 2 weeks (yay!).
2007 Muncagota (formally designated as Moccagatta but they have gone back to what I guess is the traditional Piedmont dialect for this site): Lightest by far of the 3. Almost reminiscent of Pinot Noir with some extra grip to it. Very red fruited, high-toned and pretty. This has nice balance and the grip of the tannins, while not crazy, provides a little more forceful nature to the finish than the overall depth and weight of the wine suggests. This can definitely be consumed early and while there certainly is the possibility that this will age well into the future the initial impression is that this might be better served in its relative youth. Quite enjoyable and I bet paired with some duck or the like the juicy acidity would be tamped down a bit and this would show very nicely. No complaints here.
2007 Montefico: This was right in the wheelhouse to me. Just smelled awesome and really just says, “I am utterly and unmistakeably Barbaresco.” Everything is there in the nose forone who likes old school Barbaresco aromatics. Fruit presence is a dark and rich suggesting a pretty ripe base. Full but not lavish in the mouth with a wealth of flavors and terrific complexity even at this youthful stage. Long and provocative on the finish with great depth of palate and tremendously balanced finishing tannins. This is quite the effort and this should be one for the ages. As good a Montefico as I can remember having.
2007 Paje: Old worlders All Aboard! New worlders Get Off At The Previous Exit. Monolithic in the Barbaresco sense of things. Dark, brooding, leathery, not tons of fruit showing either in the nose or palate and the fruit that is there is blackberries and dried plums but the theme is tar, leather and earth at the moment. Tons of strucutre from beginning to end. Enjoyable in the sense that I think I know where this is going and when it gets there it will be Katie Bar The Freaking Door. This is a stone statue right now and other than tasting it for the sake of seeing what Point A looks like there isn’t a lot to be pulled out of this wine as far as pure wine drinking enjoyment goes. It will be interesting to see the Cellartracker posts on this wine over the next few years. Stick this under a mountain of other wine because you don’t need to fuss with this for a long, long time. I wouldn’t pass it up if you have the capacity to age it.
Yeah, the prices have snuck into the $50s retail but these are still really good wines. In an age of “international red wine” these are clearly marching to their own beat and absolutely for the best IMO. Of the 9 crus I probably lean toward Asili, Ovello, Montefico and Rabaja as my top 4 so I am excited to crack those some day. Hard to make a huge determination on the vintage for them just based on these 3 (I haven’t tried the normale yet) but I am guessing this is going to look pretty good down the road when things are said but not necessarily done.
Great notes Jim. These wines have to be the best qpr from any region… If you think the Paje is monolithic wait until you try the Ovello. I think I prefer the more aromatic burgundian ones in 07. Cheers Mike
Nice notes,Jim. I had these, plus the Rio Sordo, six weeks or so ago when Aldo Vaca was in town, plus some older wines. they will be very nice wines–a little riper and thicker than average, but no over-ripeness. Aldo likened them to the 1990’s, which predate me. I thought they were sort of like 96 and 97 mixed togethr in equal parts. Asili and Rabaja always seem to be the favorites, but I’ve always been partial to Montefico as well.
I am curious about this. Moccagatta is one of only 4 crus made in 1967, the first year they made crus, and it was spelled “Moccagatta” then. OTOH, Pajé was spelled “Paijé” and “Rabajà” was spelled “Rabayà” on the 67s, and neither of those has now gone back to the old spelling.
I asked Aldo about this when he was here, and he mentioned that, aside from being the more correct dialect name (Paje and I think Rabaja are also dialect based), that it caused less confusion with the Moccagata estate. (I don’t know if there was any legal stuff involved, or if they just decided to do it on their own.)
I couldn’t find out anything other than that relatively generic sentance I found after trying to enter the Moccagatto on Cellartracker and having it come up as Muncagata (I confess I had just done a cursory check of the bottles and just assumed there were no changes).
Something I read made me think that the Minuto family of the Moccagatta winery owns much of the vineyard, from which I surmised that they may contribute a substantial amount of fruit for the Produttori bottling. But that was a hunch. Anyone know if that’s true?
I kind of assumed that it was all or nothing for the Produttori, at least in individual vineyards, but this might be a naive assumption. A number of the Barbaresco estates used to be in the Produttori, then left to start their own wineries, and my impression was they ere never half in or half out. I’m not sure if I’ve actually asked this specific question.
I don’t think that 2nd part is true. In 1967 and 1978, Moccagatta came from the Bellora, Casetta, and Viglino families. By 1988, there was also the Lignana family. No mention of Minuto in any of the vintages I have. Of course, it is possible that a Minuto married someone who owned land there, but no family has left among the Moccagatta producers.
Also, the Moccagatta estate was founded in 1952, 6 years before the modern Produttori was founded.
This is true. If you are a member, all your Nebbiolo grapes belong to the Produttori.
Not many. This is a source of pride for Aldo. The only examples I know of are:
Renato Vacca left the Produttori to start Cantina del Pino. His family had contributed their Ovello until 1996.
After Giovanni Alutto died in 2004, his son Renzo left the Produttori and founded Ca’ du Rabajà. 2007 is the first vintage of Ca’ du Rabajà Rabajà. 2005 is the last Produttori Rabajà to include the Alutto parcel.
Odore sold his 2 Asili plots to Bruno Giacosa in the early 1990s.
Thanks for the clarification, Ken. The all or nothing thing was how I remember it.
It was interesting to learn some of the logistics of how they run things. I guess they judge the grapes as they are delivered at harvest. I was visualizing a little more active participation in the vineyard, as is done in this country, but it sounds like they leave it to the growers, and then judge the final product when it arrives. whatever, it seems to be working pretty darned well.
Great notes Jim. These have always been some of my favorite Piedmonte for the money. I have quite a bit of 04 and 05, but no 07. They age quite well imo. You and Kate will have a fantastic time in Piedmonte and can’t wait to hear all about the trip. I just arrived in Oregon and will get together when you get back.