Our monthly lunch group experienced another stellar time at the Santa Barbara Club recently. Our wine theme was Syrah/ Shiraz from Northern Rhone, California and Australia. We had 18 wines from 17 attendees and broke them down into regions and poured them from older vintage to younger. They were served in 5 flights in conjunction with the 5 meal courses which included:
First Course:
Creamy duck soup with currant-pine relish
Second Course:
Chile rojo short ribs served with roasted pasilla chile and queso fresco polenta cake
Third Course:
Venison medallion wrapped in bacon with roasted eggplant risotto
Cheese Course:
Smoked Gouda and triple cream combozalo blue
Dessert Course:
Goat cheese and poached pear in red wine
FIRST FLIGHT:
1997 E & E BLACK PEPPER ESTATE SHIRAZ BAROSSA VALLEY- the first flight was such a treat and this wine contributed majorly toward that reality; unbelievable youthfulness with bright and deep red color, fresh significant spicy red fruit especially red cherry; this was full bodied with great mid palate pleasure on top of all that is building up and delivered from the aromatics on; the best news is, it all continues through to the back end and is in perfect balance.
1997 ASTRALIS CLARLENDEN HILLS McLAREN VALE SHIRAZ- I could never have guessed from the nose what followed; it was funky, moldy, dusty; what followed was seriously good peppery and spicy black cherry with a bit of strawberry and red cherry all nicely blended and another beautifully balanced wine.
1998 TORBRECK RUN RIG BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ- when is the last time I had 3 consecutive balanced wines? It just happened with this delightful deep, dark inky colored sweet black cherry dominated fruit profile that coats the palate with a textured softness and grace that belies the seriousness of the complexity, depth and structure.
SECOND FLIGHT:
2005 ALBAN REVA VINEYARD EDNA VALLEY ESTATE SYRAH- again, I got a nose that exudes a sour funkiness; there was a medicinal character joined in with some herbal notes of oregano and sage and a burn on the palate suggestive of high alcohol; 15.7% on the label [understated?]. I have to think this bottle is in a valley stage as previous samplings have shown much more pleasant qualities; I`d sit this down for a few years and re-try after decanting for a few hours.
2006 ALBAN REVA VINEYARD EDNA VALLEY ESTATE SYRAH- the 1st of 2 bottles; some more funk in the nose, but in this instance, it is followed by a much better experience albeit an in your face huge extracted wine that epitomizes the use of “masculinity” as a descriptor; this is a wine where you either love it or not, theres no middle ground here; its also way young for all of the stuffing to mature and integrate, but there`s no doubt it has the propensity to do so; 16.2% alc.
2006 ALBAN REVA VINEYARD EDNA VALLEY ESTATE SYRAH- 2nd bottle of 2; a much different experience and a better one at that; aromatics are loaded with a myriad of floral and blue and black fruit notes which carry on with black cherry being joined by some sweet cherry/ berry amidst a hit of talc and vanilla; this bottle had been decanted for 1 ½ hours which I have to think embellished it immensely over the 1st bottle.
1997 ALBAN LORRAINE EDNA VALLEY ESTATE SYRAH- decanted in advance; 14.0 % alc.; showing age with color change and medium at best fruitiness with some secondary flavors; still viable and decent overall in its more mellow expression of the much more masculine counterparts above.
THIRD FLIGHT:
2003 JAFFURS MELVILLE VINEYARD SANTA RITA HILLS SYRAH- balance is the key word of the day sp far; this beauty is showing nicely now and I suspect it will continue to do so for years down the line; there`s good fruit accentuated with lots of blueberry and licorice; properly decanted in advance of serving.
2009 DuMOL EDIE`S PATCH RUSSSIAN RIVER VALLEY SYRAH- another winner; smooth and lush and easy on the palate; full bodied, nice depth and a welcomed length.
2008 OJAI MELVILLE VINEYARD SRH SYRAH- very fruit forward and not yet integrated, this has complexity and layered depth to suggest good things down the line; loved its finesse and gentleness.
2005 QUPE BIEN NACIDO X BLOCK- unfortunately, this was inundated with Brett which immediately showed up and lingered on with too many ppms to overcome for me.
2002 SHAFER RELENTLESS NAPA VALLEY SYRAH- 80% Syrah, 20% Petit Sirah; previous exposures to this wine have been nothing but good; this was an exception as it seemed a little out of whack, discombobulated and searching for its once stellar pleasing gifts; even then, it had some decent notes that allowed it to stay in the glass a little longer.
FOURTH FLIGHT:
1997 JABOULET LA CHAPELLE HERMITAGE- Ive had quite a few of these and other late 90 versions and all have shown well and are aging gracefully with increasing benefits from evolution; this is more on the “Feminine” side with more elegance and grace and for my palate, its in a perfect place right now; theres good balance, still primary fruit character although moving on, a soft and gentle mouth feel and a bit of spice and pepper to satisfy my palate`s yearn for such from a Northern Rhone.
2008 TARDIEU-LAURENT COTE ROTIE- at 11 years senior to the La Chapelle, this fell right into the same category of an elegant more feminine wine; mild to medium weight, maybe just a little undernourished in the fruit department, but had more pronounced pepper and spice- Yes!
2009 JEAN-LUC COLOMBO LA LOUVEE CORNAS- blueberries and plums, anise and black currants in a youthful, vibrant expression of a wine which needs a lot of time and has the stuff to evolve into a winner.
FIFTH FLIGHT:
2001 KILIKANOON ORACLE CLARE VALLEY SHIRAZ- we return to the Aussie contributions and this is a good place to re-enter; I love this wine; it has a strong inclination for excellence starting with the aromatics which are so inviting of good things to come which do come; even with all of its depth and complexity, there`s a softness and silky texture that prevails, sort of an iron fist in a velvet glove thing; and the neat thing is, I suspect it can deliver this and even more for years down the line; many thanks to the one who brought it.
2002 SHIRVINGTON SHIRAZ McLAREN VALE- WOW! Just when I was about to award the WOTD to the Oracle, this hits my palate with pure pleasure and gratification; its all I could want in a Syrah/ Shiraz and maybe just a little more; magnificent aromas of coffee and chocolate covered black berry support the inky black color which says something great is on the way; more black fruit jumps in; with layered depth and firm tannins and fine acidity, they support the idea of longevity and long term pleasure; Im in the hunt for more of these last 2 wines.
2008 CHATEAU TANUNDA NOBLE BARON SHIRAZ- after the 2 wines before it, this fell into the category of being in the wrong place at the wrong time; it seemed more one dimensional, more medium body with more of a mild fruit expression; I went back to the first 2.
DESSERT WINE:
NV CAMPBELLS MERCHANT PRINCE RARE RUTHERGLEN MUSCAT- what a treat! Rich and creamy, thick and syrupy toasted caramel, maple and butterscotch abound and coat the palate with liquid dessert in a glass; once again, our Prince of Sweets comes though with another superb finisher.
This lunch group started in the early 90s at the Wine Cask Restaurant and has morphed into something even more special than those great lunches we had early on. Aside from a fantastic ambience in a comfortable, large, private dining room, the chef has nailed it time after time with great meals and wine pairings and the attendees have stepped up with fantastic brings without any stated request. Im very grateful for this opportunity to share such a stellar experience with equally passionate friends.
Cheers,
Blake