2017 Hubert Lamy St. Aubin Les Princees
This was a very ready and polished example. Missing the incisiveness of, say, a Murgers des Dents du Chien, but silky smooth with apple and nuances of pear. Sneaky length, very good wine here.
1999 Christoffel Erdener Pralat Ries Auslese
Popped and poured. Gorgeous wine. Really firing on all cylinders. A wealth of tropical fruit—I get glimpses of kiwi, mango and even quince—all with requisite acidity to have a conversation in your mouth. It’s so funny that I used to not get this sort of wine and now I so absolutely do.
2017 Hidden Bench Tete du Cuvee Chard
Quite composed now, one of the top Chards coming out of Ontario. There are touches of saline and touches of mineral around apple core and a bit of citrus spark. All flows smoothly across the tongue. Not a world-beater, but very enjoyable for me.
2022 Domaine du Pelican Arbois Ouille Savagnin
I have to check the bottle for year and designation and will correct if mistaken, but this was probably the sweetest version of this varietal that I’ve experienced outside a Vin de Paille. There’s an almost oily-and-grainy feel dans la bouche and a sense—if not actual taste–of bourbon (and I don’t mean alcoholic—it’s perfectly fine there). Maybe plantain a bit? It’s a wine that’s rather hard to describe. There is also some balancing acidity. Lots to think about.
A bientot,
Mike
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Not often a 1999 non-Saar/Ruwer German Riesling gets described as having requisite acidity. It’s largely a very soft vintage.
agree, was surprised. It wasn’t blazing acidity, by any means, but enough to carry the super-expressive fruit.
It’s an astute observation.
I’m so impressed with this era of Christoffel in cultivating the correct amount of acid in non-perfect vintages. Particularly in Spatlese & Auslese. This 99 wasn’t lithe, but it was wonderfully in balance.
I inadvertently went deep on 2003 Christoffel because of how cheap they were. And I keep thinking that a well stored Christoffel 03 is just entering its Prime. I can’t wait to bring some along randomly when they’re 30 years old and totally surprise folks.
First-hand evidence. From the DC dinner in November last year.
2003 JJ Christoffel Erdener Treppchen Ries Auslese
I think Nick brought this one. It was licklicous. Real juicy fruit, almost to sugar candy but effortless, lifted expression at the same time. Should last forever. A joy to drink
And from a large free-for-all in Atlanta back in summer 2018
2003 Christoffel Urziger Wurtzgarten Ries Auslese
I only had a very small sip of this, but that was enough to make me smile. Apple pie, but with the juice still drizzling out, this wins kudos for how bright and expressive it is over top of the sugar. Still a lovely freshness here, a very good bottling.
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