I had the opportunity to compare a couple of top-tier 04 Chablis in Paris last week. Both were wonderful, but the Raveneau was really profound.
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2004 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (10/22/2009)
Absolutely marvelous wine and you know it immediately from the nose. Powerful scents of freshly picked lemons and oranges along with minerals suggest a profound wine. And then like great Chablis does, it opens up with a quarry of deep, savory minerality–think chalk rather than stones and steel, as if this wine has penetrated the top soil to reach greater depths. Medium bodied, slightly viscous, complex, and richly fruited–but so focused, acidic, and refreshing that it comes across as light and effortless. A few years of age has rounded this out and added complexity–it is remarkably open in its youth–but the wine remains vigorous with many many years ahead. Grand Cru to the core. This is radioactive juice and one of the best wines I’ve had. Purchased off the list for 80 Euros at Le Villaret. (95 pts.) -
2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (10/22/2009)
The killer nose suggested that this may reach the dizzying heights of the 04 Raveneau Blanchots I had a couple nights prior. This wine pulls you in with orange zest, white flowers, and magnetic precision. Unfortunately, the palate is slightly muted (closed, a bit hollow) compared with the Raveneau. Nice minerality, terrific acidity, and great class–but this lovely wine but doesn’t yet have the crushing minerality and explosive midpalate that I suspect it will develop in coming years. The Raveneau is already there (and may still improve!) I’d hold for this Dauvissat for few more years. Even a bit shut down, this is a terrific wine now and shows why I much enjoy 04 Chablis. Purchased off the list for 100 Euros at Pierre Gagnaire. (92 pts.)
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