Thread drift, but limiting the price point to $150 or below, I’d put Lilbert’s vintage, Peter’s Special Club/Chetillons and Vilmart’s Couer de Cuvee up there right with DP, CdC, and Krug Grande Cuvee. Coeur de Cuvee doesn’t have the same history as it only dates back to 89, but I think it has done enough to enter into the conversation.
I’m a multiple case buyer of Chetillons in almost every vintage and while I really like Peter’s wines, unlike DP, Taittinger CdC and Krug Grande Cuvee, I have never been blown away by one. Same for Vilmart, and I also think they lack a bit of consistency. I’ll admit I have little experience with Libert’s Champagne so I can’t comment about them.
You won’t get any argument from me and I greatly respect your opinions.
I think Chetillons needs a lot of time to peak. I have been floored by a number of the wines from the 70s and 80s. For some reason this wine seems to need 30 years to really explode in flavor, but when it does, I am astounded by it. It seems the NV takes around a decade to really strut its stuff, the vintage 15-20 years, and the Chetillons/Special Club needs 30. At least that is my read.
I am a huge Vilmart fan, but I can understand your comment. I think the 89-97 vintages of Coeur de Cuvee were quite different in style from year to year, but starting with the 98 they have been much more consistent. I love them, but can see others not being as big on them. For me, no one else uses new or very young oak in such a polished and balanced way that actually benefits the wine.
Lilbert is probably the slowest aging wine I have come across in Champagne. Something very special and different from everything else in Cramant goes into these bottles even if there is no logic to this being the case.
First time that I’m hearing that Chetillons needs three decades to reach its peak. I would imagine this depends on the strength of the vintage. And I’m curious as to what I think is your recent addition of “Special Club” when referring to Chetillons. Thanks.
It depends on the flavors you are looking for when defining “peak”. Give Chetillons 30 years and it is often out of this world.
Pierre Peters used to be in the Special Club. This was their top wine through the first half of the 80s when it then became Cuvee Speciale; then starting in the late 90s, it was labeled as Chetillons. The Special Club wasn’t always 100% Chetillons in every vintage, but it was always a bit majority of the blend; same goes for the Cuvee Speciale although it almost always was pure Chetillons.
I am not sure I would say that. With Mesnil, it is quite vineyard or area specific. Le Mesnil-sur-Oger wasn’t an original Grand Cru. It was elevated in 1985. In general, the best plots from the Cote des Blancs villages of Avize, Cramant, and Mesnil are amazing with age. Oiry, Oger, and Chouilly have some very nice spots as well though normally not to the same level with Oger being more forward and round, Chouilly being inconsistent, and Oiry often best when blended with something else or often just plain called an Avize, Cramant, or Chouilly.
I can’t get enough of the wines, and I was happy to bury some 08 in the bottom box of a corner of the cellar. The 10 vintage is another beauty, and I will have to be sure to do the same.
1964 is the oldest I have had. As an aside, 2011 is a big winner for the vintage and a nice surprise in quality overall. Historic production on the vintage wine has only been around 2,000-4,000 bottles a year so it can be a tough find.