TN: Yquem 95, 98, 11 (and 2001 horizontal discussion)

WINE TALK
1

Some Yquem notes from a recent wine dinner:

Yquem mini-vertical
Lessons:

  1. The 1995 was the best of the three, easily. The most well balanced, fresh, great acidity, some of the best complexity, and a long life ahead. The 1998 is a value Yquem which is enjoyable but nothing profound. The 2011 is impossible to evaluate at this young age. It seems excellently balanced and will likely turn into something very good. I would love to try the 2011 again in 2016+.
  2. Halves are a wonderful size.
  3. Wait 15 years before seriously trying an Yquem.
  4. At least two of these wines had interesting grapefruit notes comparable to Fargues. Also, the style was strongly reminiscent of Fargues.
  5. There was supposedly a stylistic shift in 2005 from the more rich and unctuous Yquem to a lighter less barrel-aged Yquem (2 years instead of 3). This is the first post-style shift Yquem that I’ve tried (the 2011), and it’s hard to know what conclusions to draw. In one respect, the style of the 1995 and 1998 is much more my preference and I think a big part of what makes Yquem what it is (the richness but freshness), and the 2011 seems to head too far into the minerality spectrum of a good Barsac. But it may also be too early to evaluate, so judgements will need to wait until it has some age on it.
  • 2011 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (10/24/2014)
    From a half. Orange, citrus, grapefruit, kumquat, complex, intense; palate is full bodied, rich, but fresh, tropical fruit, apricot, incredibly young; finish is long. Very difficult to assess, but has all the components and is very nice. 93++
    On retaste 30 min later, the nose had developed substantial spiciness and great botrytis.
    Day 6: Light yellow-golden color; incredible freshness with citrus fruit, grapefruit, some vanilla; palate is full bodied, has great lightness but also fabulous density of fruit, explosive flavors, still citrus fruit; finish is long. This is a fabulous sauternes, but is it many times better than other top chateaux? Not right now, but maybe someday. Try another half in two decades. Still 93++ (93 pts.)
  • 1995 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (10/24/2014)
    From a 375. Fresher, lighter styled nose, caramel; palate is full bodied but light on its feet, minerally, persistent through the palate, grapefruit on the palate, tangy citrus; finish is long. Exceptional sauternes and a very good Yquem, lacking only the extra level of complexity and length of the best vintages. An Yquem that would pair fabulously with a wide variety of food. Still many years ahead of it. 93-95. 94
    Day 6: More of a golden-coppery tone; nose has great subtle complexity with fantastic depth of caramel, rich fruits; palate has persistent fruit, rich and flavorful but light and refreshing. Fantastic, and probably the best balanced out of the 95, 98, and 11 served together. A real treat, and a nice one to have in the cellar for the next few decades. 94-95+ (94 pts.)
  • 1998 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (10/24/2014)
    From a half. Moderate intensity nose with more mature characteristics, slight minerality, coppery; palate is rich, unctuous, rich, losing a bit of its sweetness so is balanced in a food way, a little short on the palate; medium length finish. Very nice, entering maturity, but a little short for an Yquem. 91-92
    Day 6: Deep golden color; nose similar to above with mature notes, minerality, copper, a bit of botrytis spice; palate is dense, unctuous, but still has great acidity and is refreshing, and again lacking just a bit of length. Still 90-92, which is a very good sauternes but a middling Yquem. (91 pts.)
2

Thanks for taking three for the team. The 95 is a fantastic wine, but much too young. It seems I got a lot more coconut and sweetness on it than you did.

Your note on the 11 is interesting. Is Yquem is moving more towards the racy mineral style of Coutet and Climens? I tend to really love the Barsac style, but agree that it would be sad if Yquem loses its opulence. Is the 11 any drier than the other two that you had?

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Dear Ashish,

I hate you and your life. That is all. [swearing.gif] [smileyvault-ban.gif] Plus a reluctant [grin.gif].

P.S. Nice notes. [cheers.gif]

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don’t forget to add the [grin.gif] graemlin in, Tran, so that Ashish knows you mean well—else he might not share any of his stash with you when you get out there :slight_smile:

Thanks for these, Ashish. I haven’t tried the 98 or 11 (oops, edit, I have tried the 11, in later post) and it’s been 4 years since I tasted the 95. From that taste, with a bunch of other wines (Rochioli River Block 02 Pinot Noir was, I believe, the other reference point below):

"1995 Chateau D’Yquem Sauternes

An underrated vintage, this starts out “easily” enough with apricot scents and tastes curled around some vanilla and botrytis character in balance. It is as it sits in the glass that it puts on tremendous mouthfeel complexity and an extra level of spices, nougat and interest. Pear fruit starts to poke through as well. This is really, really nice and ends up close to the Rochioli for WOTN."

5

Thanks for the notes, although many people consider the term “value Yquem” to be an oxymoron. [snort.gif]

The 2001 Yquem is that only one I’ve tasted that wowed me in its youth.

Bruce

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That would lessen the intensity of the jealousy I feel that compelled me to post in the first place. [snort.gif]

Nonetheless fixed above in the hopes that Ashish will share his Sauternes with me – or at least leave his stash unguarded long enough for me to pilfer a few bottles from it. Something Mr. Grammer never does when I’m over since he’s on to me. pileon

7

Adrian, the 2011 is not drier than any of the other vintages, but it definitely seems like more of a Coutet/Climens style than the typical Yquem opulence. I’m not sure if it’s 2011 or if it’s all vintages post-2005, and I’m not sure whether it will develop opulence with time (I haven’t tried much very young Yquem). That said, as I have revisited the 2011, it has incredible complexity and I think it’s an even better wine than I first assessed. It needs time, but it could be great, but maybe in a different style. Time will tell. Also, when I say lighter and minerally for the 1995, that’s really only in relation to the opulent and rich 1998. The 1995 is still quite a rich and opulent wine, though also with excellent acidic balance. But yes, different in style than the 2011.

Tran, I would love to host you here. I would actually prefer to have you taste a wide array of Fargues, like a vertical of 2001, 2003, and 2005, as I find that’s essentially very similar to Yquem (sometimes better) and much more approachable in the first 10-20 years of life. I try to drink much more Fargues than Yquem, though it is rarer and older vintages are harder to obtain. There could be some Yquem too. =) Keep in mind that I think the 2001 Fargues is better than most Yquem I’ve tried other than the best vintages… just a superb wine for $70-80/half.

This tasting was a bit bittersweet, as I think I’ve now tried almost all the Yquem that I can reasonably track down or afford (ie: The good vintages in the 1990s where halves were <$150). To date, I’ve tried 75, 76, 88, 89, 93, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 01, 03, 04, and 11 (a lot of these from the generosity of people on this forum). I guess the next ones for me to track down are 83, 86, or 90, though those are all a bit more expensive. Anyone want to share one of these with me? =)

8

Ashish,
Love your detailed notes as usual. I beg to differ about <15 year old Yquem. A 13 year old 1990 was just stunning. Keep bugging me - I want to drink my 1990 750 ml sometime between 2015 and 2020. :slight_smile:

9

My boy, come up HERE in a couple of years when I will be serving a Suduirait vertical which will include 70, 88, 01, 03, 05, 06, 07 and 09. We could have some fun.

As a note, at the UGC, I didn’t fall in love with any of the 11s, but the Coutet was one of the better choices, along with LTB.

Your price point of $70-80 for a halfsie of 01 de Fargues would be more like $180 here. And (we’ve discussed before, I think) I do disagree for my own taste with value in de Fargues—I have not liked all that many of them, and some have been retastes. I find de Fargues usually on the heavy and rich side for me.

As you know, had the 01 D’Yquem once. It is my current WOTY and the only wine I’ve ever given a 100 score to.

Cheers,

Mike

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Hi Ashish, great notes and interesting comments everyone. You have encouraged me to hang onto my 1995 d’Yquem a bit longer.

Mike’s comment about '01s reminded me … I’ve been overseas and am a bit behind with my TNs but I recently went to an amazing blind horizontal of twelve 2001 Sauternes (and Barsacs). The last four wines served (with my rankings in brackets) were: Suduiraut (4th, but no shame there), d’Yquem (1st), Climens (2nd) and Rieussec (3rd).

The d’Yquem had power but with elegance. Its comparatively light touch made me doubt it was the d’Yquem, as did the fact it was not way ahead of the other three wines (which I normally see tasting d’Yquem blind against other Sauternes). Consistent with what you say Ashish, I think it probably needs some more time, and this age, to really hit its straps.

The Climens was just beautiful, understated with real finesse, but with serious power held in check. Superb, but I still rated it behind the '07, as the best Climens I have ever had.

The Rieussec was the revelation of the tasting, by far the best Rieussec I have ever tasted. It had real fruit weight and power, was saturated with fruit and was hedonistic, as you would expect, but was poised and intellectual in a way I have not seen in another Rieussec.

Guys, good to see a good discussion of Sauternes on these boards.

Best, Howard

11

Thanks for the notes Howard! An 01 Sauternes horizontal (preferably blind) is certainly something I hope to do in the near future. I’ve actually been waiting for Neal Martin’s notes where he did just that, which are scheduled to be released in the next day or two. I’ll probably get a one month subscription to read them when they come out.

12

Interestingly enough, one of the first big Sauternes vertical that I went to way back in 2010 when I was a relative neophyte was a Suduiraut vertical. All the sauternes were provided by a kind friend who started me on a dangerous path…

SUDUIRAUT VERTICAL - (8/22/2010)

[]1988 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
A lovely fresh nose. Palate is less interesting and I think it is a bit low in acid, though some at the table disagreed. Nice spice. Tasted with 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 Suduiraut. (90 pts.)
[]1989 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Somewhat disappointing. Orange notes, the acidic balance was good. I didn’t feel like this competed with any of the more recent vintages. Tasted with 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 suduiraut. (88 pts.)
[]1997 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
A good but nondescript wine. Good tropical fruits, balanced. Simple compared to the other vintages. Tasted with 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 suduiraut and the 97 Yquem. (89 pts.)
[]1997 Château d’Yquem - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Amazing nose with walnuts and lots of layered complex aromas. Palate doesn’t live up to the 2001 Suduiraut that we were tasting. It is good and balanced but palate is simple by comparison. (93 pts.)
[]2001 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Hands down the best Sauternes I have ever had and the WOTN. Amazing palate with deep, layered complexity, and fabulous tension. Amazing. Tasted with 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 suduiraut. (98 pts.)
[]2003 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Lots of tropical fruits and a very nice full mouthfeel. Very good. (91 pts.)
[]2005 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
I thought the nose was a bit reticent, but the palate was divine with fabulous concentration, acidic balance, and layers of flavors. Fabulous. 94-95 pts. This was tasted with 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 suduiraut. (94 pts.)
[]2006 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
A unique nose but a little low on the fruit concentration. A very enjoyable wine that just pales to the comparison vintages in this tasting. We tasted 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 Suduiraut. (90 pts.)
[*]2007 Château Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Light, barsac styled wine with lots of balance but lacking the abundance of tropical fruits expected at such a young age. Of our 88-89-97-01-03-05-06-07 vertical, this was third after the 2001 and 2005. (92 pts.)
[/list]
Posted from CellarTracker

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I served the 1998 to a couple of experienced wine merchants blind not so long ago. They thought it was La Tour Blanche 98. A disappointing Yquem.

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Ashish,

Besides the D’Yquem, have you tried other 2011’s across the board. How are they?

Sanjay

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Only at the UGC tasting. Some are incredible, Fargues and Coutet included. Overall not quite as good as 2001 as the hype implied, but still solid broadly.

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Ashish, did you try the Climens '11? I’m hoping it’s good …

Cheers, Howard

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I did not, unfortunately. They weren’t at the tasting.

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Perfect, Ashish—then you should be ready to take another run at 'em after 6 years [grin.gif]

Howard, the 01 Sud, Rieussec and Climens will all also be, I believe, perfect wines with enough time in bottle.

Sanjay, my notes from the UGC—see? I’d forgotten I’d tasted the 11 suduiraut:

"Sauternes: All over the map in terms of flavours, botrytis effect, feel, etc. I can’t remember tasting through a Sauternes vintage this varied. So were the answers for comparative vintages. Some thought 01 with some 06, others referenced 08, others a bit of 05 and 07 or 2010. What I did learn is that pick was done starting in early September and lasted almost a month----one house did five picks. IIRC, that’s a long picking season for Sauternes.

2011 Chateau Rayne-Vigneau

Time to take my break and do all the Sauternes. Because I tend to get to these an hour or so before the rest of the throng, the reps and owners are delighted to see me [grin.gif] This is fine, with “honest” sniffs of pineapple rind, honey and light botrytis. Freshness and bright lime and orange along with apricot dans la bouche. These flavours counteract a lack of intensity and concentration. OK for now.

2011 Chateau Guiraud

I actually didn’t know this was under Comte Stephan’s aegis as well. I spoke with Laure Planty and we talked about what is, for me, the unique and sometimes unpredictable style of Guiraud. This one is a bit wilder than the Rayne-Vigneau, some muskiness permeates the aromas of citrus and pineapple. In this one, the botrytis is quite prevalent, but I think it will integrate. Rich pear and pineapple, with maybe a tinge of pomegranate too. It’s pretty good.

2011 Chateau Suduiraut

Technical director Pierre Montegut was on hand to help me with the wines. I’m usually an unabashed fan of these (in fact, putting a good vertical together for a couple years’ time). In this incarnation, there is pineapple and orange in the bouquet, which I find normal for Sud, but with that secondary muskiness that is unusual. To taste, plenty of good bones, a little sweet-side but managed and manageable. Coconut, orange, apricot and some sandalwood at the back. A lot going on, I’d like to see this again in 3 years.

2011 Chateau La Tour Blanche

Another one with musky, almost oily scents. Lime is deep under there. Sales Manager Didier Frechinet and I got into an animated discussion about the 2003 vintage of theirs in particular and how they ran with the vintage characteristics—he does find that his recent tastes still speak of the lighter elegance that is usually present in LTB. Well, that elegance is certainly present in this wine. Me happy. This has the fairy princess aspect, the lightness of being and light-on-its-feet character that I truly love in this house. Beautifully softly expressive with pineapple, pear, apricot, maple butter and honey. #3

2011 Chateau Bastor-Lamontagne

Interesting, this one emphasizes perfume and varnished wood over an almost mango tropical note in the bouquet. I tend to find these chunky. This one isn’t, but it’s also in no way mysterious. It comes at you with straight honey, lime and even a slight diesel sidebar.

2011 Chateau Coutet

Aline Baly’s face lit up like a Christmas tree when I told her that I knew Angelo Manioudakis. We spent some time discussing the house style here too. This year, 75% semillon, 23% Sauv Blanc and 2% muscadelle, and I think she said the vines are about 30 years old. Lovely, expressive lime fruit and toasted coconut. I like this in the mouth too, the typical early Coutet coiled and bracing texture with coconut and lime notes and a distinct minerality. Very enjoyable #8

2011 Chateau de Fargues

80% Sem from 35 yr vines, and 20% SB, they leave it in 10-15% new oak for 3 years. Musky and herbal, lots of green herbs mixed with yellow fruit on nose. Palate is awfully expressive—the botrytis is just right and complements orange and a real peach flavour. A very different de Fargues for me, the first one I’ve ever truly liked."

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Neal Martin posted his blind horizontal of 2001 sauternes. Any thoughts?

Notably, he is missing Yquem and Rieussec. The Climens is his highest rated by a mile (99 pts) with the La Tour Blanche next @ 96, Doisy Daene @ 95, etc. He says he is disappointed in the Fargues but still rates it a respectable 93 with an excellent note (all positive descriptors and excellent balance, only lacks the “knockout blow” to make it truly great).

Having tried most of these in the last few years, there are some things I agree with and some things I disagree with. I think he’s right that La Tour Blanche is a heavy hitter in 2001, and I agree that some lower tier 2001s seem like they aren’t living up to the reputation (I’ve notably had poor experiences with De Malle twice). He particularly likes Doisy Daene and Doisy Vedrines, which are excellent choices in that vintage. But there are many wines that I disagree on. Suduiraut he liked but likes more recent vintages more (rated 94), but every time I’ve had Suduiraut it has been vibrant, exciting, and superb, nearly perfect. Same with Fargues, each time has been a spectacular experience and one of the better sauternes that I’ve had. And the one time I’ve had Climens 2001, it was a disappointment, though that may have been an atypical bottle with some minor heat damage. Would love to try a pristine bottle of the climens someday.

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Ashish,
I did read Neal’s article.
Having tasted most My preferences are:

D’Yquem is fantastic+++

Rieussec and Climens come close second with quite different styles. Riuessec is about power and Climens about finesse,
Suduiraut comes a notch down.

Next Bracket
Latour Blanche
Doisy Daene
Lafaurie Peyraguey

IIRC, Guiraud was nice. I finished my last bottle 2 years ago. I did not put any notes down.

Coutet - I am holding off my judgement. It looked a sugary and a bit simple at last tasting. It may come together as a good package.