What has become a great tradition with a few very close friends (some of which post here), we do a blow-out meal at the end of the year. But in reality, I dine and drink with these guys throughout the year and those meals are just as good – so this year-end thing is just another excuse to get together. 
Craft did a great job and just as the menus were presented, they were whisked away after we agreed to have the kitchen cook for us (um, yes please!). I won’t focus too much on the food except the first 2 dishes which were significant deviations from what is typical Craft fare (I’ve been to the restaurant probably 2 or 3-dozen times since it opened). The first was a raw bay scallop dish with some lemon, cilantro and simple seasoning which was the essence of (seeming) simplicity and really highlighted the 100-point scallops. The second dish was a poached oyster topped with American fish roe that sat on top of a very fine and airy potato puree – very evocative of Keller’s famous Oysters and Pearls. Very refined dish that required perfect execution and it delivered in spades. The rest of the meal was an onslaught of more typical Craft food – bacon wrapped roasted sturgeon, suckling pig 4 ways, roasted capon with white truffles and a cauliflower gratin that was so insanely gluttonous and hedonistic. Great veggies, etc., etc.
On to the wine:
YEAR END DINNER AT CRAFT - (12/22/2009)
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N.V. Ruinart Champagne Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
very winey, dark color and great length. Very juicy. Love this stuff. Great way to loosen up and start the meal. -
1990 Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
wow. this started out pretty angry even though it has been decanted, but just continued to gain in length. The most prominent feature was a mid-palate presence that was almost too much to handle – so insanely grippy and sappy. But thankfully NONE of the negatives we might associate with the 1990 vintage. Sure, it was ripe, but completely fresh and even mildly elegant, but this is Bonnes Mares and all its muscularity was there. Sick wine. -
1995 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée la Belle Hélène - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
first vintage for this wine. I’ve had it several times and every time it rocks and this might have been the best bottle yet. Mint, iron and red fruits dominate the nose. Excellent length. Still quite young and fresh. With time, more classic aromas and flavors emerge – roasted meats, more iron, some olive. Stunning, stunning wine. In looking over some of my previous notes on this wine, it seems that it’s now finally starting to emerge into its interesting phase, but barely. This is ageing very slowly and gracefully – and as good as it is tonight, it will be better. I’d say 10 more years?? Fascinating. -
1990 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
unfortunately my last bottle. Perfect condition, the cork barely had any wine up the side. Decanted for about 2 hours and it needs it. Fairly dark in the glass, but the aromas are on the 2/3 mature side; tons of minerality, sweet Grenache nose but again, no heaviness of overripeness. Fruit nuances were very fresh across the board. TONS of dried herbs. Fairly rich on the palate with perfect supporting acidity and very fine tannins. No clue if this will get better, but I wouldn’t be surprised. But everything is totally balanced. -
1998 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
ow. When MC put this on the table I was psyched. Quickly decanted at the restaurant and it needed it. Intense nose with a narrow and precise band of flavors. Picks up a lot of weight with air, but this is surprisingly elegant compared to the cuvee normale from 1998 (which can really push the ripeness envelope). In comparison, the Hommage is much better balanced and complete, though yes painfully young. This is about as perfect CdP you can find and reminds me very much of the 2001 I had a few years ago in the cellar. The more I think about this wine, Balance is what stands out. 20 years? 50? Easily.
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