After my last tasting, which was a 1989 Bordeaux retrospective, I pondered a myriad of different themes for my next tasting. We have quite a bit of experience collectively with the Bordeaux, Burgundy, Northern Rhone, Champagne, and the like, but Rioja was one region that none of us had really explored on a high level. With that in mind, I tried to put together a tasting to show two of the top producers, CVNE and Lopez de Heredia, at a various stages of their development, as well as opportunity to compare and contrast both the Vina Real vs. Imperial and Bosconia vs. Tondonia bottlings. I also had a great level of interest in trying what is regarded as some of the best Cava in the world, and one of the very few houses that could potentially rival some of the better examples of Champagne.
Fight 1; Cava
Foie gras stuffed crimini mushroom
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2001 Recaredo Penedès Reserva Particular - Spain, Catalunya, Penedès
Popped and poured, followed approximately 1.5 hours. Composed of 60% Macabeu and 40% Xarel-lo, with the latter fermented in cask. Zero dosage. Light gold in the glass, with persistent micro bubbles. On the nose, this was initially quite reticent, perhaps served a touch too cold. Once it warmed up and had some time in the glass, it blossomed in to something very interesting. On the nose, notes of green apple, lime zest, a touch of florals, white pepper, mineral, salt water, and a touch of petrol, reminiscent of a Riesling. On the palate, showing a touch of sweetness, despite the zero dosage, with tastes of candied lime, mineral, green apple and white pepper leading to a moderate length finish. Structurally, this seems a touch lacking compared to the Turo d’en Mota, but shows a nice balance of acidity to counterbalance the sweet fruit. I think there is still some upside here, but can be enjoyed now if you have to time to follow it. (91+? pts.) -
2000 Recaredo Cava Turo d’en Mota - Spain, Cava
Popped and poured, followed approximately 1.5 hours. 100% Xarel-lo, fermented in cask. Spent over 100 month on the lees, and is subject to zero dosage. Golden colour in the glass, with persistent micro bubbles. In contrast to the Reserva Particular, this was just bursting from the glass, with notes of baked apple, yeast, bread dough, baking spice, crushed rock, grated ginger, a touch of oak and burnt sugar. On the palate, very rich and round, showing excellent concentration. The finish is quite long, accentuated by notes of baked apple, mineral, bitter walnut skin, burnt sugar and yeast. If I was served this blind, there is not a chance I would be headed to Cava. This shows a real sense of pedigree and class. Lovely wine, and a step above the Reserva Particular. (93 pts.)
Fight 2; White Gran Reserva Rioja
Crab & Scallop with Sweet Onion Cider Blanquette, Crustacean Oil, Delicate Herbs
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1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Golden colour in the glass. On the nose, crystalline honey, a touch of melon, florals, beeswax, light sherry/oxidative notes, mushroom, earth, roasted nuts, sandalwood, a touch of caramel, smoke, wet wool and dried herbs. On the palate, richly textured, dry, with tastes of honey, lemon zest, melon, light sherry, dried herbs and earth. At first this feels slightly deficient in acidity, but it really kicks in with a long, lingering lemon zest note. This was a very intellectual wine with a ton of complexity and interest. I preferred this to the younger 1991, but may be in the minority with that sentiment. (93 pts.) -
1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours in the glass. Light golden colour in the glass. This is quite similar in character to the 1981, which gives a real sense of the aging curve of these wines. On the nose, slightly more lifted aromatics, showing notes of melon, green apple, fresh picked herbs, honey, beeswax, very slight oxidation, sandalwood, earth, lemon zest, mushroom, florals and a touch of caramel. On the palate, again, texturally quite rich, with medium plus acid, and completely dry. The finish is quite long, accentuated by notes of lemon zest, mineral, light apple notes and spice. To me, the 1981 won out by just a hair with a slightly more advanced profile, but this wine is lovely with some definite upside still. Both these wines were quite interesting, but the consensus was that it may be tough to consume more than a glass or two, as it is quite rich. The density and concentration of flavour on the palate is really quite impressive. (92+ pts.)
Flight 3; Red Gran Reserva Rioja, with slight tangent
Wild Flower Smoked Pigeon with Langdon Honey, Wild Cranberry, Pigeon Vinaigrette
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1954 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Garnet in the glass, with moderate bricking at the rim. An expressive nose of decaying red fruit, sandalwood, citrus zest, mushroom, decaying leaves, undergrowth, cured meat, dried herbs, leather, coriander, balsamic reduction, sweat and soy. On the palate, structurally, this is relatively light bodied, medium plus acidity and mostly integrated tannin, making this wine feel silky smooth. The finish is moderate, finishing a touch bitter, characterized by dried cranberry, spice, earth and dried herbs. This majestic beauty was seemingly quite stable, sitting in the glass for quite some time with no noticeable decline. (95 pts.) -
1961 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. In the glass, garnet in colour with a moderate brick. On the nose, dried sweet red fruit, strawberry, leather, earth, beet juice, undergrowth, orange rind, and a touch of florals. On the palate, still highly structured, with medium plus acidity, and moderate tannin that dry the moderate length finish, characterized by cranberry, beets, earth and spice. A very nice wine in its own right, but a notch behind the CVNE served alongside it. (92 pts.) -
1964 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Reserva Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Poured a small pour in to my glass that was passed around the table. Sadly, heavily oxidized. NR (flawed) -
1972 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero
Popped and poured, followed approximately 1 hour. Garnet in the glass, with a moderate brick. On the nose, very oxidative, with notes of prune, bruised apple. Checked back in later, and this did not really turn the corner in to something drinkable. NR (flawed)
Flight 4; Red Gran Reserva Rioja pt. 2
Muskox Tartare; Marinated Ox Tenderloin, Sheep’s Milk Cheese, Truffle
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1970 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Garnet in the glass, with a mild brick at the rim. An explosive nose of red fruits; strawberry, cranberry, red cherry; baking spice, grass clippings, campfire, sweat, leather, decaying leaves, olive, earth and mushroom. On the palate, medium acidity, and fine grained tannin that slightly dries the long finish, characterized by sweet red fruits, olive, smoke and earth. To me, this took on a lot of character of fine aged Hermitage. A stellar wine. While this won’t get much better for my tastes, you could easily hold this for another couple decades. (96 pts.) -
1970 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Garnet in the glass, with a light brick at the rim. Compared to the Imperial, this was a little more understated, or feminine, perhaps being done a disservice being served next to its more boisterous counterpart. On the nose, sweet cherry fruit, earth, orange rind, mushroom, leather, cured meat, and baking spice. On the palate, medium plus acidity, moderate tannin, with tastes sweet and sour red fruit, earth, baking spice, and citrus fruit. Finishes moderate with a bit of tannic grip. It was interesting to compare Viña Real and Imperial in the same vintage, and for me, the Imperial won out by a reasonable margin. (93 pts.) -
1970 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Light garnet in the glass, with a mild brick at the rim. On the nose, red cherry, strawberry, mushroom, dried herbs, sandalwood, decaying leaves, citrus peel, baking spice, leather, earth, and a touch of coffee. On the palate, beautifully textured, with medium plus acidity, light gripping tannins that accentuate the moderate length finish, characterized by tastes of cranberry, strawberry, earth and dried herbs. Plenty of life left here, and could go decades in the cellar. (93 pts.) -
1973 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2h ours. Garnet in colour, with a light brick. On the nose, seemingly riper than the 1970s that were served alongside it, showing waxy black cherry, dried red fruit; cranberry, strawberry; fresh picked herbs, orange rind, spent espresso grind, earth, leather, and cedar. On the palate, medium plus acidity, moderate tannin, and love sweet red fruit and citrus peel notes that line the moderate length, earthy finish. (92 pts.)
Flight 5; Red Gran Reserva Rioja pt. 3
Venison with Parsley Root, Double Smoked Bacon, Pecan, Brussels and Pepper Game Jus
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1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Deep ruby red in the glass, with a slight brick. On the nose, gorgeous red fruit; cranberry, strawberry, cherry; earth, baking spice, cedar, and a touch of leather. On the palate, very lively medium plus acidity, and moderate tannin that grips on the moderate length finish, accentuated with cranberry, orange peel and earth notes. A very lovely wine with quite a bit of upside. While it can be enjoyed now, I would look to revisit this in another 5 years. (92+ pts.) -
1981 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Sadly, this was very badly corked. NR (flawed) -
1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 2 hours. Garnet in the glass, no brick noted. On the nose, waxy red cherry, cranberry, baking spice, fresh picked herbs, cedar, coriander, earth, and a touch of leather. On the palate, has a sense of elegance, but still needs some time to come together. Medium plus acidity, moderate tannin, finishing a touch short and dry at this juncture, with tastes of cranberry, sour cherry, earth and a bit of spice. If you are thinking of opening this wine, do yourself a favour and tuck it back in the cellar and don’t look at it for at least another 5 years. (91+ pts.) -
1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Garnet in the glass, leaning a touch darker in shade than the Bosconia served alongside it. On the nose, rather tight, but with some coaxing, deep red cherry, cranberry, orange zest, sandalwood, light herbal notes, a touch of unintegrated oak, baking spice, and some very light oxidative notes. On the palate, much like the Bosconia, this has very lively acidity; medium plus; as well as some moderate unintegrated tannin that really dries out the finish. There is a lot brooding in this wine with a ton of upside and class, but it definitely needs another 5-10 years to strut its stuff. Did not budge over the time followed. (92+ pts.)
Flight 6; Red Gran Reserva Rioja pt. 4
Accompanied by patron selected cheese from the trolley
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1994 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, followed approximately 1.5 hours. Garnet in the glass, no bricking noted. On the nose, a touch of tar/rubber, called out as reductive, which sparked a debate regarding reduction in oxidative winemaking styles. With time, this seemed to dissipate, leaving a young, but lovely traditional profile of dried red fruit, baking spice, citrus peel, earth and a touch of leather. On the palate, less enjoyable, with a wall of structure; medium plus acidity, medium plus tannin; finishing a touch clipped. Much like the 1991s, I would tuck this away for another 5 years at least before looking at it again. (91+ pts.) -
1994 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España) Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
Popped and poured, deep garnet in the glass. Seemingly much more open and approachable than the young Lopez de Heredia wines, this had a nose of deep red cherry, red currant, strawberry, baking spice, dried herbs, oak, smoke, earth and leather. On the palate, a quite a bit of substance here, with deep rich flavours of dried red fruit, earth, baking spice and woodsy notes, with medium acidity and moderate tannin, gripping on the medium length finish. As with all these young wines, plenty of upside here, despite being a little more approachable than the Lopez de Heredia wines. (92+ pts.)
To me, the most valuable tidbit of information out of this tasting for me is that I will not even look at a Gran Reserva wine produced by Lopez de Heredia or CVNE prior to the 30 year mark. While there was an educational element to the 1991s and the 1994s, they provided a mere fraction of pleasure of what they may provide at their apogee. I was also very surprised with the performance of the Recaredo Cavas, which were bar none, the best Cavas I have had to date. The Turo d’en Mota in particular showed very much like a well crafted bottle of Champagne. Tough to stomach the price, as for the equivalent dollars you can get a very nice bottle of Champagne, but it is good to see the upper limits of what is possible in Cava. Due to the flawed bottles, it became a little more difficult to draw any meaningful comparisons by pitting the Vina Real vs. Imperial and Tondonia vs. Bosconia. The differences did appear to be there, however, they were more subtle than I would have thought. Overall, a very successful evening; wonderful company, regal atmosphere, well executed dishes, and exceptional showing from the wine, despite a handful of flawed bottles.
If you want to see a few photos of the food, you can do so here: http://thewinenerds.ca/year-2-tasting-2-6-andrew-rioja-1954-1994/