TN- Xmas wines chez Maman (Champagne Fleury, Vieux Telegraphe)

I jumped on a recent 6-pack of Champagne for sale from Chambers Street, and had been dying to open one sooner than later. As luck had it, Christmas Day dinner was chez Maman, and luckily she loves bubbly. She was making lamb chops Provencal with potato gratin and brussels sprouts with chestnuts, so that called for a Rhone, preferably a Chateauneuf. Again, happily for us there happened to be a 1995 Vieux Telegraphe sitting right there in the EuroCave.

-NV Champagne Fleury Fleur de l’Europe
Upon opening, I was a tad concerned as there was a slight oxydative note, but this blew away rapidly as it breathed. At first, rather simple, with crisp apples, lemons and some brioche to the nose and palate, but the mouthfeel suggested the structure was hiding something. As it unfolded with time and air, it really began to shine, the palate coming together with the body and dancing with the tiny bubbles to really offer something outstanding. Even the acidity, which had seemed rather low at first, seemed to perk up somewhat, though this isn’t by any means a super tart Champagne (well, I’ve had many that were sharper, so YMMV). The finish was long and surprisingly grippy, a really enjoyable way to end each sip.

-1995 Vieux Telegraphe la Crau Chateauneuf du Pape
When I first cracked this, there was a slightly stewy note that had me worried, but behind that curtain lay some sweet fruit that made me think decanting would be a bad idea. So I let it sit upright for about 3 hours, open, just breathing and relaxing. As dinner was plated, I began pouring, and my eyes (and palate) almost popped out of my head: this had undergone such a huge transformation that I was really happily surprised. Beautifully silky and smooth black and red notes were carried along on a velvety structure that married spicy herbal and earthy aspects to the sweetness of the fruit, ending in vivid acidity and a long, lustrous finish. There were no gobs here, there were no oozes there, this was just pure, unadulterated class, the way CdP used to be and frankly, to my palate, should be. Such a pleasure to both smell and drink, and when it was empty it left with me with a longing smile. Merry Noel indeed.
Cheers! [cheers.gif]

That 95 VT was such a furry beast when it was young, but delicious. At some point I had a killer bottle of 1986 and decided I had to stop drinking them so young.

Of all the VT from 1994 through 2003, the 95 seems most satisfying and complete. For now that is…I think the 2001 is starting to get awfully good and 1998 will come around a few years hence.

I’ve had the 1995 several times in the past few years, and each time it seemed to improve slightly. This bottle, however, was so a point that I was really bowled over. Absolutely fantastic, and proof that I need to keep my hands off my 1998s.

D’accord!