So last night eight good geeks (ok, six good geeks, a couple of great spouses) gathered at Crabtrees Kittle House for dinner and a little tour around Burgundy. After a thunderstormy day, it was a beautiful evening, and Betsy and I were lucky enough to be on side with gorgeous outside view. It was really a convivial group, and everyone brought some nice wines (Monday is BYO night). We did the tasting menu, and a fine night ensued. I’ve thought Kittle House has improved kitchen in last few years, but this was by far best food I’ve ever had there.
1998 Raveneau “Butteaux” Chablis 1er
Fresh, young, giving. Very light, yet with depth and concentration on finish. I really enjoyed this. A-/B+
2000 Domaine Leflaive “Les Pucelles” Puligny-Montrachet 1er
Pear and citrus fruit, just a bit of hazelnut/fish oil Coche-style exoticism, good length, young. B+
(somewhere in here there was a delicious opener of crudo/sashimi, tuna and an excellent white fish that I thought was hamachi but thought after tasting maybe fluke, with a lime/cilantro sauce; shortly afterward a nice dish with some halibut with little baby artichokes that didn’t interfere with wine)
1995 Drouhin “Les Folatieres” Puligny-Montrachet 1er
My white. Bigger, rich, mature but not oxidized. Gio said it seemed Batardish. Very nice wine, though I preferred the Chablis by a hair. B+/A-
1991 Neillon “Les Vergers” Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
Kittle House has the best list north of city, and Dave spotted some bargains compared to market, and we discussed whether to get this or a Ramonet. I voted for this due to sentimental reasons (plus it was great in 2000). Age is really showing on nose, oxidative/sherryish notes, but it’s considerably fresher on palate - definitely some oxidative flavors of caramel and nuts, but also some chalky minerals, flowers. I liked more 9 years ago, but this is classy if fading (I think I may have liked more than table). B
A pretty good lineup of whites, and then we started with reds. About then a diver scallop accented with curry on a bed of peas with mint arrived, sounds weird, tasted delicious.
1996 Comte de Vogue Chambolle Musigny 1er
Young vines Musigny of course. Good acids, some tannins, perfumed. Nice, but I thought just a touch clunky compared to its flightmate. B
1996 Rousseau “Les Cazetiers” Gevrey-Chambertin 1er.
Black cherries, earth, and a little grilled meat. Nice balance of fruit, tannins, and acids. Tiny hint of brett, but well within my tolerance level. Drinking well but with a future. I think I might have been in minority in preferring to the Vogue. B+/A-
Next course was duck breast roasted with thyme, with little porcinis, zucchini, and turnip.
1999 Mommesin Clos de Tart
Damn! Corked all to hell
1996 Rene Engel Clos de Vougeot
Big, ripe black cherry fruit framed by somewhat zippy acids, very nice though I think time would do this good. B+
At some point a lamb chop accompanied by roast lamb neck and some fennel arrived.
1998 Thierry Violot-Guillemard “Rugiens” Pommard 1er
Totally new producer to me, but I was quite impressed. Combined that Pommard meaty masculinity with some real elegance. Some lead pencil/ graphite and minerals. Lovely midweight which went well with the food. A-/B+
1980 Henri Boillot “Rugiens” Pommard 1er
Pretty sure my last bottle of this, but other than one grabbed by TCA has been a consistent strong performer. Smoke, crushed cherries, lighter older Burg with fresh acids keeping it lively. Again, elegant (who’d have thought of both Pommards as oozing elegance?). As always, I find this stunning on nose, good on palate. A-
This was supposed to be the end, but as the cheese (Epoisses, Pleasant Ridge, plus a Portugese cheese I missed name of) came, a bottle of the
2001 de Montille “Les Caillerets” Puligny-Montrachet 1er appeared.
A pungent slightly cheesy nose, with flowers and lemon peel . Rich and structured on palate, apple and lemon meringue. Very good. A-/B+
Quite a night (and Betsy was driving so I had no constraints). Thanks to everyone for their vinuous generosity (especially Dave who I think paid separately for the Niellon). Jacques did a great job organizing (no surprise),. and it was one of the better combinations of meal and wine I’ve had in a long time.
Grade disclaimer: I’m a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn’t drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.