TN: Weekend with Eddie - Part 1

WEEKEND WITH EDDIE - PART 1 - Marea, New York City (4/15/2016)

I had been meaning to find an occasion to connect some DC winos with Eddie and his NYC winos. I only met Eddie once over a dinner and my impression was that he was extremely passionate about wine without any pretension and snobbery. I emailed Eddie and he was quite enthusiastic about the idea. A few of us started to coordinated the dates and the themes and we settled on having two lunches. The first lunch was to share the great old wines and the second to drink only La Taches for reds. Eddie suggested a number of venues and we settled on Marea and Bouley. At this point, Eddie and John Slover, Eddie’s personal sommelier, took charge of coordinating all the logistics.

As the plans solidified, it became quite evident that Eddie’s generosity would take the events a few notches up. It was understood that all of us will add two wines per lunch but Eddie felt that we were a bit short on La Taches so he added 51, 95, 90, 93, 99 and 00. He also felt the need to add the 09 and 11 DRC Monty, the 01 and 02 Coche CC as well as a few other great bottles. At the end, it was quite clearly to me that the wines will be beyond monumental, best two days of wine drinking of my life.

On the 15th, eight of us convened at Marea. The crew consist of eight of us, Paul and Me from DC, Tom from Baltimore, Jeff from Chicago and Eddie, David, Simon and Gary from NYC. John Slover didn’t a perfect job fighting and serving the wines. We were pleasantly surprised to see the chef greeting us. He did an excellent job cooking for us. We were having a blast. Eight guys sharing the passion for great wines, no ego and no pretense. By the time when we left, it was close to the dinner service to start. We bid farewell to each other. All of us were incredibly happy how the event turned out.

Champagne
Most preferred the 75 Dom and I may be the only one preferred the Cristal.

  • 1975 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque - France, Champagne
    A hint of fino, honey, pepper, baked apple, almond paste and mineral. Very fresh, polished and energetic palate, generous fine mousse, bright acidity, strong mineral presence and long clean finish. The palate is fresher than then the nose suggests. Most preferred it to the 79 Cristal. The freshness in palate is very impressive. (96 pts.)
  • 1979 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
    Great contrast to the 75 Dom Oenotheque. Beautiful fully mature nose displaying Dauvissat like oyster jus, tarte tatin, opulent rich yellow fruit, orange peel and mineral. Excellent concentration, succulent yellow fruit driven palate impression, generous mousse, excellent mineral expression, bright acidity and lovely long sweet finish. Exceptional champagne. Perhaps only a point below the last bottle. A great example of mature Cristal, deeply toned sweet fruit without compromising the precision and balance. (98 pts.)

Rieslilng
This was really interesting. I got the impression of “natural” wine.

  • 1997 Nikolaihof Riesling Vinothek - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    The impression of “natural” wine for me. A hint of Vin Jaune, strong chamomile, anise, lychee, perfectly ripe yellow peach, almond and mineral. Quite focused and precise palate, nicely layered fruits, bright acidity, limestone mineral and clean finish. Very unique expression and really enjoyable. (93 pts.)

Leflaive Chevalier plus a Monty

  • 1982 Delagrange-Bachelet Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
    Beautiful fully mature nose displaying oily yellow citrus fruits, seashell, saline, a hint of butter scotch and cream. Beautifully layered fruits, good density, reasonable amount of acidity and long seashell driven finish. As usual in mature white Burgundy, this became fresher and lighter with air. Lovely showing. (95 pts.)
  • 2010 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    A bit of controversy as one taster thought the wine was too “ready” considering the pedigree. For my palate, correct and pleasurable. Fresh ripe orchard white fruits, apple and pear, lemon peel, strong presence of mineral a la wet limestone, mountain spring and white flowers. Quite precise and pure palate, good mineral expression, good acidity and lovely long finish. Not the most polished Chevalier, a bit of Batard. Nevertheless not showing any signs of premox and quite enjoyable but need to try a few more to be certain. (96 pts.)
  • 2005 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Similar to the last bottle drank a year ago. Dense ripe yellow fruits, a hint of yellow peach, ginger candy, mineral and honey. Excellent concentration, dense and oily, sweet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, good presence of mineral and medium long finish that ends very sweet. It would be interesting to follow how the 05 Leflaives evolve. If you don’t own already, try to avoid considering the price. Coincidently, the rating is identical as the last bottle. (93 pts.)
  • 1992 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    If sourced correctly, ie aged properly, this has been consistent upper 90 pointers for me. A great example of the 92, quite ripe without compromising the precision and focus. Subtle yet expressive nose displaying beautiful sweet white fruits, smoke, candied lemon peel, mint and mineral. As usual, it got fresher with air. Despite missing the bright acidity, the quite is very precise due to the strong mineral expression. Lovely showing. It is still drinking wonderfully but no need to wait. (97 pts.)

DRC Monty
Most exotic and kindy white Burgundy of my life

  • 2008 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
    Absolutely stunning, incredibly exotic and perfectly hedonistic wine. Beautiful interplay of tropical yellow fruits, mostly pineapple, Coche like matchstick, exotic spices and botrytis. It strong reminds me Coche CC but a bit kinkier and more exotic with tropical yellow fruits and botrytis. Excellent concentration, quite dense yet air a la D’Yquem, beautifully layered fruits, good acidity and incredibly long exotic finish that ends with very sweet note. This certainly doesn’t fit the mold of classic Montrachet but I can’t complain. Perhaps the most hedonistic white Burgundy of my life. (99 pts.)

89 Giacosa Riserva

  • 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    I realize that this is highly revered. Even if this was not served in the same flight as the 89 Falletto riserva and CRR, this would have been a bit of disappointment. Delicate red fruit driven nose, strawberry water, rose, kerosene, tar, iron, fungus and truffle. Delicate palate, a hint of oxidative note, good mineral presence and medium finish with a hint of rot as the end note. Around 91-93 pts but better not rate as I am not entirely certain if the bottle is correct. NR (flawed)
  • 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Incredibly expressive, unbelievably complex without compromising the balance and harmony. Beautiful harmonious nose displaying dry cherry, cherry liqueur, fruitcake, iron, anise, light caramel and mineral. Beautifully layered and polished palate, all components are in expressed in unison, still a hint of tannins but not as noticeable as in the 89 CRR and seamless long finish that resonates and doesn’t want to end. Certainly not as youthful and concentrated as the CRR but as pleasurable for the current drinking. (98 pts.)
  • 1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Unbelievably youthful nose displaying black and red cherry, dry cherry, fruitcake, rose, tar, dark spices and strong presence of mineral. Incredibly youthful palate displaying excellent concentration, beautifully layered, quite chewy yet polished, strong iron like mineral expression, good acidity, still strong presence of tannins and incredibly long finish. Tom commented that the wine may need another quarter century to reach the peak and I can’t argue with Mr. Giacosa. Absolute privilege. The youngest and most concentrated of the flight. (99 pts.)

Roumier Bonnes Mares
Actually this held up nicely against the La Taches served next

  • 1983 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Absolutely captivating nose, the perfect example of fully mature Burgundy that we all seek. Raspberry jelly/jam, sous bois, decadent caramel, mushroom, truffle, a hint of animal and mineral. There definitely is a hint of the 83 rot but it is not bothersome. The palate is surprisingly lean and angular which it is quite common in the 83 reds. The nose makes me to come back. Perhaps 98 point nose and 90 point palate. I can smell this all day. This and the 95 La Tache were the only two red Burgundies that reach the full maturity. (95 pts.)

La Tache

  • 1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
    Very consistent with the last bottle drunk in 2014. Perfectly mature La Tache nose, concentrated yet delicate red fruits, raspberry, raspberry jelly, strawberry, strong stem that adds nicely complexity at this stage, Vosne spice, sous bois, light caramel and sautéed poricini. Perfectly integrated harmonious palate, quite silky, decadent caramel and raspberry essence driven palate impression, perfect amount of acidity, a hint of sweet tannins and lovely sweet Vosne spice and caramel driven finish. Neither the most profound nor the most concentrated La Tache yet it is so incredibly enjoyable, grand vin! Despite being totally ready to go, this will drink well for the next few decades, becoming more delicate and pure. The true beauty of La Tache and the glimpse of how it will show in a few decades can be found in the glass with only a few drops, so expressive and so decadent. (97 pts.)
  • 1999 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
    This is an imposing and perhaps overwhelming wine. Incredibly youthful nose displaying ripe yet pure red and black fruits, a hint of soy, lavender and strong note of stem. Incredible concentration, beautifully layered fruits, imposing structure and extremely long finish that ends with earth and stem notes. This is still very much primary and it will need at least a couple of decades to reach the peak. For my palate, so darn impressive and in some sense, a bit overwhelming. WOTL for many, certainly the favorite La Tache. I actually preferred the 05 slightly. (98 pts.)
  • 2000 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
    This is the most black fruit driven La Tache of the flight. Expressive nose displaying blackberry, black cherry, strong note of coffee/espresso bean, noticeable stem, rose, cotton candy, mineral and earth. Good concentration, slightly hollow mid-palate which I find in the 00 reds, strong mineral presence, just enough acidity, a hint of slightly dry tannins and long finish with stem as the end note. Eddie and David mention not the best example. Very nice ripe nose but a bit hollow palate. Perhaps my rating would have been higher if not served along with the other La Taches. (93 pts.)
  • 2005 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru
    I must profess that I love the 05 La Tache and have a strong favorable bias. The nose has never shutdown hard since release, i.e. always very youthful, pure and hedonistic. Expressive nose displaying intense pure sweet red fruits, raspberry, raspberry jelly, strawberry, a hint of Vosne spice and tie guan yin, decadent caramel and stem. Incredibly concentrated yet perfectly precise and harmonious palate, infinitely layered fruit, bright acidity that sets the excellent precision and gives vibrancy, nicely integrated tannins and unbelievably long finish. I prefer the red fruit and purity of the 05 over the black fruit and incredible concentration of the 99. I find the nose incredibly energetic and the palate so sensual. This wine always lifts my spirit. Another perfect showing. (100 pts.)

La Mouline

  • 1989 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Tasting and rating the La Moulines and after the La Tache flight show the limitation/absurdity of 100 point scale that I love. If I have to pick, I would rather drink the 97 point 95 La Tache to this wine which is near perfect. Expressive yet harmonious nose displaying sweet black fruits, dark flowers, tapenade, anise, caramel and grilled meat. Beautiful polished, silky and seamless palate, strong presence of mineral, bright acidity and never ending finish. Beautiful juxtaposition of power and grace. Absolutely stunning showing once again. IMO, La Las still represent the best value in the top wine category. (98 pts.)
  • 1978 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Concentrated dark fruit driven nose, slightly dry blackberry and black cherry, coffee, leather and smoke. This particular bottle is quite soft and warm, nicely layered fruits, good acidity, fully resolved tannins and long finish. According to Eddie, not the best bottle. This is correct but not as energetic and expressive as I anticipated. Still an excellent wine. (95 pts.)

Madeira

  • 1834 Barbeito Madeira Malvazia - Portugal, Madeira
    Intense nose displaying dry figs, molasses, a hint of turpentine, cedar and balsamico. Excellent concentration, very sweet dry fruit driven palate impression, piecing acidity gives the wine excellent precision and energy, and incredibly long finish. This will last forever. (97 pts.)

Truly a monumental event, a great time was had by all.
Posted from CellarTracker

Hard to top this and nice to have friends in high places! “Monumental” is a little understatement!

Had this at release…the only drc monty to date…initially an OMG wine…the nose was insane! This is a huge botrytis wine…more so than I really wanted at the time…but knew it would do wonders in years! SO rich and sweet, tropical…yet LOADED with minerality and a wall of fresh acidity…initially too much buttered popcorn to me…but must have been the Coche like oak…the spice just heaven…only a 96ptr for me at the tasting…but kind of knew this would be three digit in time…wish I could try another bottle now! [beg.gif]

You drink well! [worship.gif]

Amazing line-up Kevin. Thanks for the report.

wow kevin. you guys don’t mess around. i’ve been fortunate to have tried a couple of the wines above but the 08 drc montrachet still haunts me.

can’t wait to see part 2!

cheers,

I only met Eddie once over a dinner and my impression was that he was extremely passionate about wine > without any pretension and snobbery> . I emailed Eddie and he was quite enthusiastic about the idea. A few of us started to coordinated the dates and the themes and we settled on having two lunches. The first lunch was to share the great old wines and the second > to drink only La Taches for reds> . Eddie suggested a number of venues and we settled on Marea and Bouley. At this point, Eddie and John Slover, > Eddie’s personal sommelier> , took charge of coordinating all the logistics.

Oh god. I laughed out loud in my office and someone asked me what I was looking at on the internet. Sometimes I wonder if you’re trolling, Kevin.