Emilio Valerio Martínez de Munlain, to give him his full title, is a Spanish jurist who has more than 25 years experience as a legal prosecutor, with a particular interest in environmental issues. With a family estate that dates back more than six centuries, Emilio was eager to safeguard the biodiversity and viticultural heritage that lay on the slopes around Dicastillo, his home town. This led to the development of a vinous project, for which he takes fruit from 50 small vineyards, all of which are tended in an ecologically sensitive fashion.
The vineyards (and olive groves, another facet of the project) are situated at an altitude between 400 and 1000 metres, with soils of clay and limestone, peppered with areas of sand and limey gravel. The vines are an esoteric blend of varieties, 15 in total, red and white, with an average age of 35 years. The red wine, Viñas de Amburza, is dominated by Garnacha (Grenache of course), Graciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; the fruit is hand-harvested, and each small plot sees a micro-vinification in either cement, steel or oak, prior to blending and ageing in a mix of new and used French barrels.
Disclosure: these two wines were received samples.
Emilio Valerio-Laderas de Montejurra Viñas de Amburza (Navarra) 2006: A cuvée made from multiple small plots of vines, using biodynamic methods. The average vine age is 35 years, the varieties Graciano, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon. The harvest is manual, fermentation in wood and cement and then into French oak for 11 months. Dark in the glass, with dark, tightly coiled, plum skin fruit with very aromatic notes of warm Mediterranean herbs, especially sage, and a hot, stony element. Nicely textured on entry, polished, although with a lean core travelling through the middle, with tight and dry tannins at the centre, surrounded by a layer of lean, cherry stone fruit. Structured, dry, mouth-watering with a pithy finish. Rounded, soft-edged, but certainly a good mouthful, although certainly drily tannic and in need of some sympathetic food. 15.5+/20
Emilio Valerio-Laderas de Montejurra Viñas de Amburza (Navarra) 2005: A great colour in the glass, dark but also vibrant. The aromas presented on the nose are just delightful; it is packed with smoky black cherries, with a sense of creaminess. Rich with notes of plum skin, cherry stone and spiced blackberry, overall this is very nice. The palate is just fabulous, very well judged it seems, with a good layer of fruit alongside a rich but gentle, well delineated flesh. Good sappy fruit character, never plump or fat though, just deliciously composed, sweet and savoury, defined and structured, with a ripe and perfectly integrated seam of tannin in the middle. Good, black cherry, red cherry and cranberry fruit, and a tannin-tinged finish. Really excellent wine by any standards, this has a lovely detached freshness which I adore. Delicious wine! 17+/20