TN: Two Ruché

  • 2018 Crivelli Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato - Italy, Piedmont, Monferrato, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (12/24/2021)
    Not the most immediately joyous vintage of this wine, but it still has the juicy friendliness that I expect and want from Ruchè. Deep raspberry fruit, a little bit of herb, and enough structure to balance, but never impose. Remains a fun wine and a value, regardless of it being a less impressive vintage.
  • 2019 La Miraja Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato - Italy, Piedmont, Monferrato, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (12/23/2021)
    Total contrast to a Crivelli Ruchè served side by side. This one showed a more savory side, without the up front juiciness. It was better with food, which addressed the structural/fruit imbalance. Overall it was a decent wine, but not what I want from a Ruchè.

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Which gives me a chance to post once again Matt Kramer’s entertaining account of his encounter with a 1992 ruche/rouchet while dining in Turin. From his excellent book “Passion for Piedmont.”
Kramer ruche 1.jpg
Kramer ruche 2.jpg
Kramer ruche 3.jpg

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Heh…

We were biking in the Langhe and Monferrato at the end of September, so I had my first Ruché.

  • 2020 Gatto Pierfrancesco Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato Caresana - Italy, Piedmont, Monferrato, Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato (9/30/2021)
    Wild aromatics. Dried thyme, very floral, wild, wooly, stemmy, hints of macerated strawberry and balsamic. Palate is fruity, some sweetness, chewy, nice acidity, not very strong but enough to balance the other. Red fruit, ripe, quite ripe, almost overripe strawberry. Pleasing. Easy. Very fun wine!

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Excellent!

Before the world changed I used to travel to Torino, Italy on a regular basis for work. Ruché was my go-to red when picking wines to have with my co-workers. Always fun!

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Eric - Yes, “wild aromatics” and “strawberries” really are the essence of the grape.

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A fun grape variety for sure and generally a great value. It’s been planted / grafted in California in recent years and the varietal name has been approved for use on labels by the TTB (I wrote the petition for its approval!). It was first brought to California by Randall Grahm, and a small block was grafted at Siletto Vineyard in San Benito County.

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Not familiar with this grape but will have to find one and give it a whirl.

Side note: Matt Kramer is such a good writer. Seems totally genuine. Thanks for the share.

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Seek out the Crivelli.

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I normally like the La Miraja wines (and sold them for a bit), but that '19 Ruche is a bit on the lean, underfruited side for my taste and I like wines with zip and acid. I just don’t think it was a successful vintage for that wine, as it’s usually a bit fruitier.

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He is. And smart and insightful.