A year ago I arranged a tasting of blind mini-verticals (with the aid of @AskoKassinen and another wino friend).
We had three flights of short verticals: one white, one rosé and one red. The white and red verticals were poured fully blind, but as we discussed before the tasting - there was no point in pouring the Heredia Rosados blind. Everybody would immediately identify the wines from their appearance alone!
Anyways, the white vertical (Méo-Camuzet Clos Saint Philibert) came from my cellar. Most people identified the wines as Chardonnay - most likely Burgundy - quite quickly. Although the slightly green-ish 2020 vintage did throw a few people off, making some think of oaked Sauvignon Blanc instead.
The Heredia Rosado vertical came from Asko’s cellar - apart from the 2012 vintage, which I brought to the table. These weren’t tasted blind. The 2010 vintage was as amazing as ever, and the 2009 was surprisingly evolved this time (I’ve tasted the same vintage since this tasting, and it seemed our bottle in this tasting was prematurely evolved).
The third flight was a mini-vertical of Concha y Toro’s somewhat legendary Cab, Don Melchor, at approximately 20 years of age. Most people identified the wines quite quickly as Chilean Cabernet - and most people weren’t particularly enamored by these wines. Some were a bit too evolved, whereas the others were just way too Chilean. Tons of cassis and a dollop of new oak on top. Not really a winning combination here.
Before we revealed the wines, we also scored each flight - with the first two flights people could give one point to their favorite vintage, but with the Don Melchors, people could give two points per wine. As I knew what the wines were, I didn’t give any points. I’ve however noted the points each wine got (maximum 10 points for Méo-Camuzet and Heredia, maximum 20 points for Don Melchor).
The main tasting.
The blind extras we had before and after the main tasting (a composite of two photos, if you’re wondering why the Burgundy bottle looks a bit odd compared to the other three bottles).
- 2021 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (31.8.2024)
A unique wine in the sense that this is a white wine and, bar this wine, Méo-Camuzet is quite strictly a red wine producer. This is from a single monopole vineyard planted between 1990 and 1992 on shallow, rocky soil. The Clos Saint Philibert vineyard is planted to 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc, but due to the rigorous selection, fewer Pinot Blanc grapes make it to the final wine compared to the Chardonnay grapes. Since the vineyard is situated at a rather high elevation, it ripens very late, but due to the lack of potassium in the soil, the grapes always retain noticeably high acidity. Due to the cool microclimate, Clos St. Philibert is very susceptible to oidium and thus is the only non-organic vineyard of Méo-Camuzet. The wine is typically a blend of Chardonnay (95%) and Pinot Blanc (5%); in some vintages Pinot Blanc is vinified separately, in others it is not. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, aged in oak pièces for 10-11 months, blended into stainless steel, fined and bottled. 13% alcohol.
Intense, quite youthful yellow-green color. The nose feels open, youthful and quite intense with rather high-strung aromas of fresh nectarine and pineapple, some reductive notes of gunpowder smoke, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of ripe Fuji apple and a touch of honeydew melon. The wine feels youthful, crisp and pretty high-strung on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of fresh Golden Delicious apples and nectarine, some steely mineral tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, light creamy oak notes, hints of smoky reduction and grilled pineapple and a touch of yellow gooseberry. The brisk, high acidity lends great sense of freshness and energy to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and palate-cleansing with an intense aftertaste of stony minerality and tart lemony citrus fruit, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light sweeter notes of ripe nectarine and grilled pineapple, a little bit of creamy oak, a hint of crunchy gooseberry and a touch of fresh Golden Delicious apple.
A sophisticated and balanced but also way too young vintage of Saint Philibert that comes across as very brisk and high-strung - a bit more than is typical for this label. There's lots of good going on here, but I'd say the wine still needs some time to come fully together. At the moment most other vintages are drinking a lot better, so I'd leave the wine in a cellar for another 5-10 years. A great wine now, even better as it ages. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2021, 2020, 2017 and 2014), 2 people voted this as the best one. At 46,50€, this has been a terrific purchase.
(92 points) - 2020 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (31.8.2024)
A unique wine in the sense that this is a white wine and, bar this wine, Méo-Camuzet is quite strictly a red wine producer. This is from a single monopole vineyard planted between 1990 and 1992 on shallow, rocky soil. The Clos Saint Philibert vineyard is planted to 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc, but due to the rigorous selection, fewer Pinot Blanc grapes make it to the final wine compared to the Chardonnay grapes. Since the vineyard is situated at a rather high elevation, it ripens very late, but due to the lack of potassium in the soil, the grapes always retain noticeably high acidity. Due to the cool microclimate, Clos St. Philibert is very susceptible to oidium and thus is the only non-organic vineyard of Méo-Camuzet. The wine is typically a blend of Chardonnay (95%) and Pinot Blanc (5%); in some vintages Pinot Blanc is vinified separately, in others it is not. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, aged in oak pièces for 10-11 months, blended into stainless steel, fined and bottled. 13% alcohol.
Youthful, very slightly hazy lemon-yellow color with faint greenish highlights. The nose feels fresh and vibrant but also somewhat green-toned with aromas of birch leaves, some woody tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light juicy notes of ripe Golden Delicious apple, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a crunchy touch of green currants. The wine feels quite broad and ripe yet also subtly vegetal on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full-body and dry flavors of ripe Granny Smith apple, some leafy green tones, a little bit of creamy oak, light crunchy greencurrant tones, a mineral hint of wet rocks and a touch of tangy salinity. The high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is dry, crunchy and pretty acid-driven on the palate with green currants, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of stony minerality, light green leafy undertones, a sweeter hint of ripe Golden Delicious apple and a woody touch of savory oak spice.
This would've been a very balanced and enjoyable vintage of St. Philipbert, if it weren't for the vegetal, green undertones that distracted a bit from the pleasure. Some people didn't seem to even notice them - or were bothered by them - while others wondered if the wine (in a blind mini-vertical) was actually the same as the other three wines (St. Philibert vintages 2021, 2017 and 2014). Some even suggested if the wine was an oaked Sauvignon Blanc due to the faint vegetal nuances and greencurrant flavors. Overall this wasn't a bad wine in any way, but compared to the other three vintages, this was easily the weakest effort. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2021, 2020, 2017 and 2014), not a single person voted this as the best one. At 46,50€, this has felt somewhat pricey for the quality.
(88 points) - 2017 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (31.8.2024)
A unique wine in the sense that this is a white wine and, bar this wine, Méo-Camuzet is quite strictly a red wine producer. This is from a single monopole vineyard planted between 1990 and 1992 on shallow, rocky soil. The Clos Saint Philibert vineyard is planted to 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc, but due to the rigorous selection, fewer Pinot Blanc grapes make it to the final wine compared to the Chardonnay grapes. Since the vineyard is situated at a rather high elevation, it ripens very late, but due to the lack of potassium in the soil, the grapes always retain noticeably high acidity. Due to the cool microclimate, Clos St. Philibert is very susceptible to oidium and thus is the only non-organic vineyard of Méo-Camuzet. The wine is typically a blend of Chardonnay (95%) and Pinot Blanc (5%); in some vintages Pinot Blanc is vinified separately, in others it is not. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, aged in oak pièces for 10-11 months, blended into stainless steel, fined and bottled. 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep yellow-green color. The nose feels quite ripe, expressive and somewhat sweet-toned with attractive, slightly tropical aromas of fresh apricots, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of pineapple, light vanilla nuances, a hint of stony minerality, a touch of crunchy Golden Delicious apple and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The wine feels ripe, broad and serious on the palate with a medium body and vibrant, somewhat concentrated flavors of fresh red apple and pineapple, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of fresh apricot, light vanilla tones, a hint of savory spices and a touch of stony minerality. The rather high acidity lends good sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is long, fresh and nuanced with flavors of apricot and saline minerality, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of ripe pineapple, light woody nuances, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of vanilla.
A very balanced and harmonious vintage of Clos St. Philibert that is starting to show some signs of development and lovely oak integration, yet still retaining very fresh and youthful overall feel. Seeing how vibrant and youthful the wine still is, I can imagine this will continue to age and improve for a good number of years more. This vintage was the crowd favorite in our mini-vertical of Clos St. Pihiliberts, but I have to admit I myself preferred the slightly leaner and somewhat more electric 2014 vintage over this one. Nevertheless, this is a fine and complete white Burgundy that is very lovely already now, but will only get better with additional aging. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2021, 2020, 2017 and 2014), 5 people voted this as the best one. At 39,95€, this has been an excellent purchase.
(93 points) - 2014 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint Philibert Blanc - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits (31.8.2024)
A unique wine in the sense that this is a white wine and, bar this wine, Méo-Camuzet is quite strictly a red wine producer. This is from a single monopole vineyard planted between 1990 and 1992 on shallow, rocky soil. The Clos Saint Philibert vineyard is planted to 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc, but due to the rigorous selection, fewer Pinot Blanc grapes make it to the final wine compared to the Chardonnay grapes. Since the vineyard is situated at a rather high elevation, it ripens very late, but due to the lack of potassium in the soil, the grapes always retain noticeably high acidity. Due to the cool microclimate, Clos St. Philibert is very susceptible to oidium and thus is the only non-organic vineyard of Méo-Camuzet. The wine is typically a blend of Chardonnay (95%) and Pinot Blanc (5%); in some vintages Pinot Blanc is vinified separately, in others it is not. Fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels, aged in oak pièces for 10-11 months, blended into stainless steel, fined and bottled. 13% alcohol.
Medium-deep lemon-yellow color with a subtly greenish hue. The nose feels fresh, precise and subtly sweet-toned with attractive aromas of ripe citrus fruits and crunchy Golden Delicious apple, some creamy oak tones, light flinty notes of smoky reduction, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of fresh nectarine, a touch of vanilla custard and a whiff of sweet candied fruit. The wine feels firm, dry and focused with flavors of fresh red apples and stony minerality, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light zesty notes of ripe lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of creamy oak, a hint of incisive steely character and a touch of grilled pineapple. The racy acidity lends a great sense of freshness and sinewy structure to the wine. The finish is firm, clean and focused with a very long aftertaste of fresh Fuji apple and pineapple, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of creamy oak, light saline mineral notes, a zesty hint of ripe Meyer lemon and a touch of vanilla.
A wonderfully crisp, fresh and precise vintage of Clos St. Philibert that shows more energy, focus and intensity than any other vintage I've tasted. The wine is still remarkably youthful for its age, showing very little if any signs of evolution - although the oak integration is in a great spot right now, letting the spotlight shine on the bright and tangy fruit flavors! While a fantastic wine at the moment, the wine is obviously built for the long haul and I can see the wine benefiting from at least another decade of aging. Even if this was my favorite vintage of our mini-vertical, the crowd favorite was the somewhat less lean and more accessible 2017 vintage. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2021, 2020, 2017 and 2014), 3 people voted this as the best one. At just 31,20€, this has been a steal.
(94 points) - 2012 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (31.8.2024)
A blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%). Aged for 5 years in oak barriques, bottled in April 2018 and aged for another 4 years in bottles before release. 12,5% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity and pH 3,3. Total production 15,000 bottles.
Medium-deep onion-skin color with a salmon-red hue. The nose feels fragrant and somewhat sweet with aromas of blood orange, some creamy oak tones, a little bit of nuttiness, light bruised apple notes, a hint of baked exotic spice and a touch of melon. The wine feels clean, nuanced and somewhat evolved on the palate with a medium body and somewhat oxidative flavors of caramel and butterscotch, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of bruised apple, light crunchy notes of redcurrants and tart lemony citrus fruit, a hint of creamy oak and a faint touch of something vaguely metallic. The wine feels quite brisk with its rather high acidity. The finish is long, dry and crunchy with a somewhat evolved aftertaste of zesty citrus fruits, some oxidative notes of caramel and bruised apple, light crunchy redcurrant tones, a little bit of apple peel bitterness, a woody hint of savory oak spice and a touch of stony minerality.
A fresh, brisk and quite classically styled vintage of Heredia's Rosado - only this feels like a somewhat lesser vintage of the preceding vintages: it isn't as deep and textural as the 2011; not as intensely-flavored and precise as the 2010 or 2008; nor as complex and nuanced as the 2009. Furthermore, there is a tiny bit of something metallic that is irregularly present in some Heredia wines - and which does distract from the pleasure a bit. However, this was much better and more vibrant than our previous bottle, which had some aldehydic Fino Sherry notes of green almonds and apple slices. I'm happy that these elements were completely absent this time! All in all, this was good, but not 68,56€ worth of good. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009), not a single person voted this as the best one.
(90 points) - 2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (31.8.2024)
A blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%). Aged for 4 years in oak barriques and for further 6 years in bottles before release. 12.5% alcohol and 6,7 g/l acidity. Total production 12,000 bottles.
Medium-deep onion-skin color with a salmon-red hue. The nose feels rich, evolved and subtly darker-toned compared to the other recent vintages of Tondonia Rosado with layered, slightly oxidative aromas of caramel, sweet cherries and cooked cream, some woody tones of savory oak spice, a little bit of wild strawberry, light nutty nuances, a hint of ripe apricot and a touch of bruised apple. The wine feels rich, textural and complex on the palate with a moderately full body and layered flavors of butterscotch and creamy oak, some strawberry tones, a little bit of saline minerality, light crunchy appley notes, evolved hints of nuttiness and bruised apple and a touch of woody oak spice. The combination of moderately high acidity and a slightest touch of tannic grip make the overall feel firm and balanced. The finish is rich, complex and subtly grippy with a savory aftertaste of crunchy redcurrants and wild strawberries, some woody tones, a little bit of apricot, light oxidative nuances of caramel and chopped nuts, a hint of saline minerality and a touch of bruised apple.
A harmonious, textural and very open-knit vintage of Tondonia Rosado with a bit more ripeness than in the 2010 vintage. Great sense of texture, richness and depth of flavor here. A notch below the 2010 and 2009 vintages, but not more - although not among the greatest recent vintages of Tondonia Rosado, this is nevertheless a fantastic and beautifully complex Rioja Clarete in its own right. Drinking really well right now, but most likely will continue to evolve and gain complexity for the next decade or even more. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009), 2 people voted this as the best one. At just 41,02€, this has been good value.
(94 points) - 2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (31.8.2024)
A blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%). Aged for 4 years in oak barriques and for further 6 years in bottles before release. 13% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 20,000 bottles.
Medium-deep onion-skin color with a salmon-red hue. The nose feels wonderfully rich, expressive and clean with intense and very complex aromas of peachy stone fruits and ripe honeydew melon, some browned butter notes, a little bit of woody oak spice, light oxidative notes of toffee and chopped nuts, a hint of strawberries, a touch of dried red fruits and a faint lifted whiff of VA that lends a floral and subtly marmaladey quality to the bouquet. The wine feels firm, sinewy and relatively youthful (for a Tondonia Rosado, that is) on the palate with a rather full body and intense flavors of ripe strawberries and caramel, some apple peel bitterness, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of stony minerality, oxidative hints of chopped nuts and butterscotch and tart touch of fresh cranberries. The brisk acidity lends a great amount of freshness and structure to the wine, and the subtly grippy touch of tannins only adds to the sense of firmness. The finish is very long, crisp and subtly grippy with a complex and intensely flavored aftertaste of caramel and wild strawberry, some stony mineral notes, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of salinity, an oxidative hint of chopped nuts and a touch of floral lift.
This continue to be a simply fantastic vintage of Tondonia Rosado. While the 2008 vintage has occasionally surpassed this 2010 in quality, it seems a bit more unreliable in terms of bottle variation, whereas this 2010 is consistently exceptional. In our mini-vertical of Tondonia Rosados, the 2009 vintage came very close to this, but I'd say the 2009 was getting quite near its apogee, whereas this 2010 still seems to have years - probably even decades - left in the tank. Of the recent vintages of Tondonia Rosado, I'd say this is the best one thus far. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009), 6 people - more than half of the attendees - voted this as the best one. At 50€ this might feel pricey for a rosé wine, but it manages to over-deliver for the price.
(95 points) - 2009 R. López de Heredia Rioja Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (31.8.2024)
A blend of Garnacha (60%), Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%). Aged for 4 years in oak barriques and for further 6 years in bottles before release. 13% alcohol, 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 14,000 bottles.
Rather deep onion-skin color with an aged brick-red hue. The nose feels complex, evolved and slightly oxidative with layered aromas of bruised apple and butterscotch, some nutty tones, a little bit of savory spice, light tertiary meaty notes, a hint of dried strawberries and a creamy touch of rich custardy character. The wine feels rich, complex and rather evolved on the palate with a rather full body and layered flavors of bruised apple and oxidative nuttiness, some sweeter notes of almond paste, light savory notes of meaty umami, juicy hints of ripe raspberries and other red fruits and a woody touch of savory oak spice. The bright high acidity lends good sense of focus and structure to the palate, yet the overall feel is velvety in texture. The finish is rich, evolved and somewhat tertiary with a long, dry aftertaste of wood and nuttiness, some juicy red-toned notes of ripe raspberries and wizened strawberries, a little bit of earthy spice, light savory nuances of meaty umami, evolved hints of caramel and butterscotch and a touch of woody oak spice.
I was surprised how evolved this vintage was - somewhat noticeably more so than any other vintage of Heredia Rosado in our mini-vertical. However, the wine didn't feel past its prime in any way - just more advanced than I expected. There's still lots of fruit left in the wine and its bright, focused acidity keeps the wine wonderfully alive despite its somewhat tertiary nature. I don't know if we just had a prematurely advanced bottle, or if this ripe vintage is evolving at a faster pace than I anticipated. In terms of richness, balance and complexity, this vintage was almost on par with the fantastic 2010 vintage, but I'd say the 2010 vintage was not only slightly better now, but also showed more potential for future development, whereas this 2009 seemed to be pretty close to its peak. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2012, 2011, 2010 and 2009), 2 people voted this as the best one. At just 27€, this has been an outright steal if there ever was one.
(95 points) - 2005 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto (31.8.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (97%) and Cabernet Franc (3%) from the Don Melchor vineyard planted between 1979 and 1992. Harvested between April 19th and May 17th. Aged for 14 months in French oak barriques (70% new, 30% once used). Bottled in November 2006. 14,5% alcohol, 4,9 g/l acidity and pH 3,56.
Dense, evolved and fully opaque brownish-red color with a pale maroon rim. The nose feels tired, old and somewhat cooked with sweet aromas of prunes, some blackcurrant jam, light fishy tones, a hint of tobacco and a touch of loamy earth. The wine feels rich, evolved and savory on the palate with a rather full body and tertiary flavors of prunes and other sweet dried fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of game, light earthy notes, a hint of something fishy and a touch of earth. The wine is medium in acidity with still moderately grippy tannins. The finish somewhat oxidative, quite grippy and a bit tired with a long, tertiary aftertaste of prunes and dried dark fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of meat stew, light earthy tones, a hint of blackcurrant marmalade and a touch of loose tobacco.
A very rich and tired vintage of Don Melchor somewhat past its peak. I think the wine might've been in a solid shape a decade ago, but it is starting to turn quite oxidative and pruney now. Still somewhat drinkable, but not in a particularly vibrant shape anymore - basically the ample tannins are the only thing that keep the wine somewhat sturdy and in balance. Although the wine wasn't particularly expensive at approx. 30€ back in the day, this wasn't worth the price anymore. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001), not a single person voted this as the best one.
(81 points) - 2004 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto (31.8.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (94%) and Cabernet Franc (6%) from the Don Melchor vineyard planted between 1979 and 1992. Harvested between April 19th and May 11th. Aged for 14 months in French oak barriques (69% new, 31% once used). Bottled in December 2005. 14,5% alcohol, 5,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,66.
Dense and more or less fully opaque blackish-red color with a slightly evolved maroon hue. The nose feels quite intense and somewhat evolved with aromas of wizened cherries, some prune juice, light meaty tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, a hint of strawberry, a sweeter touch of toasty mocha oak and an oxidative whiff of meat consommé. The wine feels aged, open-knit and surprisingly lightweight on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of tobacco and game, some licorice root notes, a little bit of earth, light autumnal nuances of leafy forest floor, a hint of crunchy red plum and a sweeter touch of dried blackcurrants. The medium-plus acidity is somewhat on the soft side, but at least the still pretty firm and grippy medium-plus tannins bring some welcome firmness to the velvety texture. The finish is aged, savory and rather grippy with a long aftertaste of prunes and wizened blackcurrants, some pipe tobacco, light gamey tones, a little bit of earthy sous-bois, a hint of ripe strawberry and a touch of toasty oak spice.
An aged and quite tertiary vintage of Don Melchor. While not as old and tired as the 2005 vintage, it seems pretty obvious that this wine has also passed its apogee and is now gradually declining in quality as the oxidative nuances creep in. However, unlike the noticeably more 2005 vintage, this is still quite enjoyable - if you happen to like this style of wine. Although surprisingly lightweight for a blockbuster Chilean red with still enjoyably firm and grippy tannins, the overall feel was still a bit too sweet-toned and oaky, and also lacking a bit in the acid department. Priced according to its quality at approx. 30€. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001), this wine got 5 points of total 20 points, making it finish on second place.
(88 points) - 2003 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto (31.8.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (95%) and Cabernet Franc (5%) from the Don Melchor vineyard planted between 1979 and 1992. Harvested in April 2003. Aged for 14 months in French oak barriques (77% new, 23% once used). Bottled in December 2004. 14,5% alcohol, 5,4 g/l acidity and pH 3,58.
Quite dense and more or less fully opaque blackish-red color. The nose is incredibly punchy with a pungent streak of Chilean cassis and blackcurrant leaf character along with slightly evolved aromas of cherry marmalade, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of wizened dark plum, light cigar nuances, a hint of gravelly earth and a touch of toasty mocha oak. The wine feels rich, concentrated and quite extracted on the palate with a pronounced hit of crème de cassis and blackcurrant concentrate along with notes of ripe blackberries, some pipe tobacco, a little bit of ripe plummy fruit, light evolved notes of wizened black cherries and dried figs, hits of savory wood spice and toasty mocha oak and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is impressively structured and quite muscular with the rather high acidity and the still remarkably grippy, assertive tannins. The finish is long, powerful and grippy with an intense aftertaste of crème de cassis and blueberry-driven juicy fruit, some evolved notes of dried dark fruits, a little bit of game and meaty umami, light earthy notes, hints of savory wood spice and toasty oak and a touch of pipe tobacco.
Of the five Don Melchors we tasted, this was by far the most youthful bottle, showing tons of still remarkably youthful fruit, lots of vibrant energy and very little if any resolution of tannins. However, the problem here was that this wine was as over-the-top as a blockbuster Chilean Cab can be - the wine felt so overdone with its heady, almost pungent cassis aromas that seemed almost ridiculous in their immoderate intensity. If the wine ever develops into a phase where the lush blackcurrant aromas have evolved into something less effusive, more nuanced characteristics yet the wine still retains its great sense of structure, this might turn out to be a rather impressive wine after all. However, at the moment the wine feels quite monolithic and almost like a caricature of an overdone Chilean Cab, so while a stately wine in its own right, it isn't really a wine that speaks to me - nor to anyone else. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001), not a single person voted this as the best one. However, I'd say that back in the day, the wine was priced according to its quality at approx. 25-30€.
(89 points) - 2002 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto (31.8.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (96%) and Cabernet Franc (4%) from the Don Melchor vineyard planted between 1979 and 1992. Harvested between mid-March and early April. Aged for 14 months in French oak barriques (68% new, 32% once used). Bottled in November 2003. 14% alcohol, 5,3 g/l acidity and pH 3,6.
Luminous and slightly translucent black cherry color with a somewhat evolved pomegranate hue. The nose feels complex and somewhat evolved with layered aromas of tobacco, wizened black cherries and dried blackcurrant tones, some herbaceous notes of cooked bell pepper, a little bit of peppery spice, light crème de cassis nuances, evolved hints of old leather and meat stew, a smoky touch of toasted oak spice and a whiff of licorice root. The wine feels evolved, nuanced and silky on the palate with a full body and layered flavors of ripe dark fruits, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of licorice root, light gamey tones, evolved hints of wizened blackcurrants and leafy forest floor and a touch of toasty oak spice. The overall feel is balanced with the quite high acidity and still moderately ample and rather grippy tannins that show relatively little resolution. The finish is long, dry and quite grippy with a long, complex aftertaste of wizened blackcurrants and old leather, some pipe tobacco, light autumnal notes of leafy forest floor, a little bit of game, a hint of meat consommé and a faint touch of toasty mocha oak.
A surprisingly serious, classically styled and harmonious vintage of Don Melchor, showing evolved qualities yet enough freshness and vibrancy to come across as firm and sinewy, not tired or pruney - something that these wines not always succeed in. I'd say the wine is more or less at its plateau of maturity now, but the way how the toasty oak notes still show through a little bit is a testament to how heavily oaked these wines are; even over 20 years of aging is not enough for the oak to disappear completely - and most likely the wine just can't be aged long enough to the oaky tones to fully integrate with the fruit. However, as the wine otherwise comes across as very balanced and enjoyable, I'd say this is now as good as it gets. This is a fine and still wonderfully structured example of aged Chilean Cab from the modernist blockbuster end. At approximately 25€, this has been excellent value for the money back in the day. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001), this wine got 13 points of total 20 points, making it finish on first place.
(92 points) - 2001 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor - Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto (31.8.2024)
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%) and Cabernet Franc (9%) from the Don Melchor vineyard planted between 1979 and 1992. Harvested between April 1st and 29th. Aged for 14 months in French oak barriques (75% new, 25% once used). Bottled in November 2002. 14% alcohol, 5,0 g/l acidity and pH 3,75.
Luminous and slightly translucent black cherry color with a somewhat evolved plummy hue. The nose feels quite Chilean but also pretty evolved with aromas of licorice and ripe dark fruits, some jammy cassis tones, a little bit of dried blackcurrant, light plummy notes, evolved hints of pipe tobacco and gamey meat, a touch of brambly raspberry and a woody whiff of savory oak spice. The wine feels rich, evolved and somewhat sweetly-fruited on the palate with a full body and bold flavors of ripe dark plums, some dried blackcurrants, light meaty notes of game and savory umami, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a herbaceous hint of leafy Cab character and a touch of pipe tobacco. The overall feel is textural but also a bit soft with the medium acidity and silky, resolved medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is rich, quite evolved and gently grippy with a long aftertaste of ripe blackcurrants and crunchy red plums, some savory notes of meaty umami, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light leafy and minty green nuances, a hint of old leather and a sweeter touch of prunes and other dried fruits.
This wine was pretty easily identifiable as a Chilean Cab with its quite pronounced cassis aromas and green minty overtones, but at the same time the wine had evolved wonderfully, developing quite a bit of additional tertiary qualities that contributed to the complexity. At the same time the wine had integrated most of its new oak tones, showing just vague woody nuances in the background. The one thing I felt the wine was left for wanting was its structure; the acidity was quite modest here and the tannins had resolved almost completely, making the wine maybe beautifully silky and suave in texture, but also rather soft, round and mellow in overall feel, lacking in firmness and freshness. While a quite impressive and thoroughly enjoyable effort in its own right, I felt this was somewhat overshadowed by the more balanced and nuanced 2002 vintage. Of the vintages we tasted blind (2005, 2004, 2003, 2002 and 2001), this wine got 2 points of total 20 points, making it finish on third place. At approximately 25€, this has been very good value for the money back in the day.
(91 points) - 2022 Chateau Mars Koshu Orange-Gris - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi (31.8.2024)
A Koshu that straddles the line between a white wine and an orange wine. The pinkish skins of the "gris"-colored Koshu grapes are macerated for some time to lend the wine a bit of color, but still limiting the phenolic extraction. 12% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Luminous, pale golden yellow color. The nose feels sweetish and a bit evolved with aromas of hay and almond paste, some grilled corn tones, a little bit of ripe Golden Delicious apple, light notes of cantaloupe, a grassy hint of herby character and a touch of something waxy. The overall feel is maybe a bit evolved and lacking in freshness. The finish is dry, a bit odd and somewhat dull on the palate with a medium body and rather un-fruity flavors of wool and lanolin, some steely mineral notes, a little bit of rosin and phenolic bitterness, light sawdusty character, crunchy hints of cantaloupe and white fruits and a touch of smoke. The medium acidity is on the soft side, making the wine lack some freshness and structure. The finish is dry, slightly saline and subtly bitter with a medium-long aftertaste of crunchy white fruit, some phenolic notes of rosin and bitterness, light woolly notes of lanolin, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of mealy yellow apple and a touch of smoke.
While the wine did show some skin-contact qualities, it still came across more like a somewhat dull white than an orange wine. Unlike the 2018 vintage, which I tasted a few years ago - where the skin-contact characteristics seemed to have granted this otherwise somewhat neutral wine a bit more depth and interest - here the skin-contact characteristics seemed to have only dulled and muddled the wine. Combined with its somewhat low-ish acidity, the overall impression wasn't particularly interesting this time.
(84 points) - 1995 Dulcinea Santos Ferreira Bairrada Sidónio de Sousa Reserva - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada (31.8.2024)
100% Baga from a 80 yo vineyard. Bottle #305 of total 4000 bottles. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Rather dense and quite opaque blackish-red color with a somewhat maroon hue. The nose feels aged and somewhat oxidative with aromas of game and tobacco, some dried dark berries, a little bit of old leather, light sanguine notes of iron, a hint of smoke, a sweeter touch of raspberry juice and a lifted whiff of nail polish. The wine feels dry, firm and sinewy on the palate with a medium body and savory flavors of tobacco, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light gamey tones, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of old leather. The combination of high acidity and still remarkably stern, grippy tannins make the wine feel pretty tough and tightly-knit. The finish is dry, long and grippy with a savory aftertaste of tobacco, some ferrous notes of blood, a little bit of tart lingonberry, light earthy tones, a hint of old leather and a touch of sour cherry bitterness.
A nice, aged and quite classically styled Bairrada, ie. stern and tough as nails. But not without charm! On its own the wine is quite lean and might be hard to appreciate, but with this much structure and all its tertiary complexity, this is a terrific food wine for dishes that call for a lot of structure from the wine. A sort of Portuguese alternative to aged traditionalist Nebbiolos or tough old-school Bordeaux reds. Great stuff, at least if you enjoy tannins!
(92 points) - 1971 M. Marengo Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (31.8.2024)
14% alcohol. Bottled in a 0,72-liter bottle. Tasted blind.
Translucent rusty reddish-brown color with a yellowish-orange rim. The nose feels old, rather sweet and quite immediately identifiable as an old Nebbiolo with aromas of dried cherries, some ripe cranberries, light raisiny tones, a little bit of gravelly minerality, a hint of meat consommé and a touch of wilted roses. The wine feels ripe, somewhat sweet-toned and quite tired on the palate with a medium body and tertiary flavors of raisiny dark fruit and tobacco, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of ferrous blood, light funky notes of phenolic spice, a hint of forest floor and a touch of dried dates. The overall feel is silky yet still pretty structure-driven, thanks to the moderately high acidity and still rather grippy tannins. The finish is savory, long and quite grippy with a tertiary aftertaste of dried cranberries and wizened dark fruits, some tobacco, a little bit of phenolic funk, light bitter notes of sour cherries, a hint of tar and a ferrous touch of blood.
Quite tasty and still rather structured but also very tertiary and somewhat tired Barolo that has passed its peak and is now in a decline. This is still an enjoyable wine, but definitely not at its best anymore. I think this might've been quite an impressive wine a decade or two ago, but now the overall feel is getting rather anonymous with the aged, tertiary and somewhat oxidative characteristics.
(87 points) - 2021 Domaine Chantal Lescure Beaune 1er Cru Chouacheux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru (31.8.2024)
100% organically farmed Pinot Noir from parcels in 1er Cru Chouacheux, averaging 50 years in age. The grapes are destemmed but not crushed. Fermented spontaneously and macerated for 18 to 25 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged in 500-liter demi-muids (20-25% new). Bottled unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Youthful, rather translucent raspberry-red color with a thin, colorless rim. The nose feels somewhat wild and lifted with expressive aromas of black raspberries, some chopped aromatic herbs, a little bit of funky animale, light zesty Campari tones, red-toned hints of wild strawberries and redcurrants, a touch of gravelly earth and a whiff of toasty oak spice. The contrasting the somewhat wild nose, the wine feels quite clean on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of ripe raspberries and crunchy cranberries, some herby spice, light funky notes of Campari and phenolic spice, a little bit of floral lift, a brooding hint of sweet, dark-toned oak spice and a touch of gravelly earth. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity than on the supple, gently grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe, juicy and gently grippy with a rather long aftertaste of crunchy redcurrants and brambly raspberries, some phenolic bitterness, light zesty Campari tones, a little bit of ripe sour cherry, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of oak spice.
A tasty, harmonious and youthful Beaune 1er Cru red that feels surprisingly wild and funky for a Burgundy. This is not a natty and unclean weirdo, but instead a rather classically styled Pinot Noir, but there's no denying that there is some wild, lifted qualities intermingling with the fruit flavors. While thoroughly enjoyable and fully drinkable right now, I think there is still something to gain with additional aging. Perhaps another 5-8 years? Enjoyable stuff.
(91 points)
Posted from CellarTracker
