TN: Tempier et al in Portland

WINE TALK
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Last Friday Daniel Ravier of Domaine Tempier and a few more producers in the Kermit Lynch portfolio came to E&R wines in SW Portland. What a great tasting. Everything was at least good, with plenty of exceptional wines to sample and a good but not over large crowd.

I loved the three Champagnes poured. First the NV Lassalle Imperial Preference, chalky and pure. The '02 Vueve Fourny Blanc des Blancs was exceptional, my favorite of the bunch, full and precise at once. Then a NV Paul Bara Brut with mostly Pinot noir, full of red fruit and chalk, a little more broad than the others and delicious.

Then over to the Tempier table with the affable Ravier pouring four wines. Before anyone starts with laments for the death of real Tempier in recent years, let me say I was very impressed with most of these wines. The seem riper than in the past but have great structure and savor. This is Bandol and mourvedre, totally unique. The '09 Bandol Blanc was full, lemony and waxy, just terrific Provencal white wine. The '08 Bandol Rouge Classique was bright and barky, perfectly delicious. Then a big step up to a powerful '08 Migoua, full of fine tannin and savory fruit. I really like the Migoua but the '08 Tourtine was even better. Full of fine texture, beefy and minerally with great fruit. These wines are not fruit bombs, something I’m hearing too much about Tempier in general. However, there are exceptions. The '06 Cabassaou was very ripe and boozy, with some VA and not the sense of place I find in the other wines. As an aside, I happened to have the '06 Tourtine at dinner the next night with friends and it was delicious, definitely more fruit centric than old Tempier but still so textural and savory that I’d happily drink and cellar this. Rumors of Tempiers demise are exagg…

Quickly I tasted through some typically lovely bottles of Reuilly from Denis Jamain. Crisp '09 Sauvignon, minerally '09 rose of Pinot gris and peppery, lithe '08 Pinot noir rouge. Little wines but excellent. Then Pierre Ravaille’s Ermitage Pic St. Loup. A pleasant '09 Rose, a nice '08 Blanc that’s not off the Tempier blanc. I didn’t love the '07 Rouge, but the '06 Cuvee Ste Agnes was excellent, the best here for my taste. Full of interesting flavors, great balance, just terrific. The fancy '06 Guihelm Gaucelm rouge was a bit over the top ripe. Certainly impressive wine but not as energetic as the Ste. Agnes. A fellow taster disagreed. That wouldn’t be the first time. But for me, the Agnes is better for less than half the money.

Thanks E&R for hosting the event.

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Damn, no BRETT?? Can it still be called Tempier?? [beee.gif]

(and just so you don’t tkae this the wrong way, I’ve been a fan of these for years!)

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Good point. The wines are riper than they used to be, and pretty much brett free. That '06 Tourtine we had at dinner was with some pretty brett-averse people who were surprised at the lack of brett but really liked the aromatics, texture and complexity. Tempier has changed but the wines are still excellent and true to their place, for all I know about it.