TN: Tasting Notes from Some Wines Tasted in 2008:
TN: 1999 Belle Crozes-Hermitage Les Pierrelles. On the nose, especially, a wine that brings to mind a beautiful woman after making love, as my French neighbor would say. (Those not attune to such rusticity might say notes of “BO”.) Truly, a rated “R” wine. With several hours of air, a solid, but light on its feet cherry liquer overlying that tangy, slightly sour syrah that can only come from the Northern Rhone. Drinks like a charm right now. $16. A very solid 90 points.
TN: 1970 Ch. Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac, St. Emilion. Translucent red. Cedar and then all sweet fruit on nose. Lovely. In the mouth, very sweet liquer of dark fruits with mushroom/fungas and a bit of dirt. The negative is a slight sour mushroom note and a drying sense on the finish. Nice with food. Really, not bad at all for $15 per at auction delivered. Interestingly, the wood case came with the bottles wrapped in paper and sitting in straw-like paper. A very solid 87 points and quite fun. Mrs. Robinson, anyone?
TN: 2003 Le Grand Vin du Ch. Haut Beyzac, Haut Medoc. Le Creosote and smokey oak on nose and in the mouth. In the vein of Charmail or even Clos du Lunelles (thinking of the 01). Nice length. Ripe, but not at all suffering from the negative side of 2003’s heat. An enjoyable and interesting and slightly modern Bordeaux. Hold until 2012+. $24. A solid 90+ points.
TN: 1996 J. Raphet Morey St. Denis Reserve V.V. Nice stinky Burg nose overlaying a touch of mellow wood spice. High acidity and sour cherry, but a glycerin quality builds with air. Sure, it’s a bit thin in the middle and sour to the point of being almost angular (though that fades), but it’s a nice, basic, mature burg that compliments food and is tasty on its own. Not quite elegant, but within waiving distance of that goal. $27 recently – a good purchase. 88 points.
TN: 2004 Chave Cotes du Rhone Mon Coeur. Drank over two nights. OK, but I expected more. Not a Grenache dominated profile at all. A touch grapey, even on the second night, and just not enough character. I was not looking for a “big” CDR from Chave, so that is not the criticism. And this had some size to it. I just wanted more nuance and character. OK at best. Is the 05 any better? $16. 85 points.
TN: 1999 Chalone Chardonnay Estate. I have always liked this wine and it is still performing well, though different from in the past. Reticent and not overdone tropical notes, especially pineapple, and other yellow fruits. Not sure I would 100% say Chardonnay if served blind….sort of Loire like in a way at this stage of its evolution. No heat. No oak noticeable. No butter. A lovely wine still, though its not as full in the middle as I remember it. I will drink these up in the next year or two, but maybe save one bottle for five just to see what happens. $20. 88 points.
TN: 2000 Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Sixtine. Drank over six hours. A still reticent nose even after several hours, but beginning to open to hints at Provence and just a slick of glycerin. That said, it remains clamped down, negatively, by what I can only assume is its barrel treatment. Anyone know how much wood this cuvee sees? Pretty on the entry, and the center is full for a moment or two…until the wood – slightly charred? - clamps down and tightens the natural bliss of the fruit. Do I think this will improve, with the wood integrating a bit more? Definitely. Do I think the wood treatment is to the detriment of this wine now and forever. Yes, no doubt here. Wish they just added this fruit to their regular cuvee and forgotten the wood! $32. 87(+?) points.
TN: 2004 La Massa, Tuscany. A nondescript “super-Tuscan” of some sort. I think the other varietal(s) – Bordeaux – limit the expression of the Sangiovese here. Enjoyable, but not exciting. The second night (after a night in the refrigerator in half bottle), this loosened up a bit, but I never felt it took off. Hold for another year or so if you have them. $20. 86(+?) points
TN: 2000 Sortilege de Chateau Plaisance, Cotes de Bordeaux. On opening, bitter wood tannin and milk chocolate. Dark fruit buried underneath that, somewhere. Drying wood covers the tongue at the end. Basically, a bitter oak soup. Very disappointing. The second night, no real improvement. $14. 84 points.
TN: 1998 Dom. A-F Gros Vosne-Romanee Aux Reas. A touch a maturing, spice laden fruit, but dominated with some rough tannin on the end from which this wine never really recovered. Nice enough and certainly enjoyable, but not worth the tariff. $45. 87 points.
TN: 2006 Dom. Remejeanne Les Chevrefeuilles. The first night this smelled and tasted a bit like a ripe, but very heavy Beaujolais. The second night, a bit of improvement only. A thick, rather styled heavy Cotes du Rhone that leaves one wishing for more elegance, even at the expense of some of the ripeness and fullness they must have been after. Some heat on the finish. If I had any, I’d leave them for at least six months to see if it calms down and integrates. Would not buy more, as it seems more like a wine that was “manufactured.” $13. 84(+?) points.
TN: 2001 Le Clos du Caillou, Cotes du Rhone-Villages, Tres Vieille Vignes Reserve. Nose is shy to the point of nonexistence, only shyly improving with air. Showing a bit more heat than my last bottle, this gets much better in the mouth with an hour or so of air. Ripe Grenache dominates a nice liqueur quality with blackberry, and a hint of garrique and lavender. At times, a touch sharp on the midpalate, perhaps from the alcohol level. Still, quite nice. $27. 90 points.
TN: 2004 J. Truchot, Bourgogne Rouge. Sweet, delicate notes of strawberry backed by menthol. Sour cherry finish. A lot of finesse for an 0S Bourgogne, especially on night two. Not for those who crave fruit. Lovely. $19. Well done and a solid 89 points.
TN: 2003 Goulee, Medoc. Sweet oak dominated, but creamy fruit. Modern to a fault, but pleasantly so as it just steps back from the brink - in this case helped by the heat of the vintage, I think. A wine of pleasure, not finesse. Modern, but nice enough. $14.99. 88 points.
TN: 2000 Ch. Malescasse, Haut Medoc. Nice fruit dominated by too much drying oak tannin on the finish. A bit less oak and this would be great - they went for a touch too much flash considering the underlying materials. $13. 86 points.
TN: 2002 Daniel Barraud Pouilly-Fuisse En Buland Vieilles Vignes. Lacking a touch of acidity, perhaps, and a touch too much on the finish, but very enjoyable. I am pleased by this showing (despite the fact it was a hair better a year or two ago) because a recent bottle of his 02 Les Crays that I brought to a wine dinner as a starter did not satisfy at all. $27. A solid 89 points.
TN: 2003 Domaine du Milliere, Chateauneuf du Pape. Wow, this wine did not live up to early reviewer billing. Unfortunate! Not bad, but certainly overly raisened and oddly ripe - sort of a chariciture of a Chateauneuf brought about by the 03 heat, no doubt. More than a resemblance to a Sherry. That said, it offers pleasure and is generous, though one glass is more than enough for me. It gets more undrinkable past three hours. Hope this is not the future of Chateauneuf as the temperatures rise. $24. 85 points.
TN: 2001 Muga Reserva, Rioja. Eucylyptus/menthol on the nose and following through to dominate the palate. A clear flaw for me, as it never blew off. Not over-oaked, though wood influence still obvious. Otherwise, pretty for what it is. $20. 87 points.
TN: 2000 Baumard Trie Speciale Savennieres. Liquid gold, this wine is rich and open with sufficient age to really enjoy, especially the second night. Honey galore. Never saw a 2002, but this 2000 is so much better than the awful 2003 I tasted last year. $19. A solid 90 points.
TN: 2001 Lewis Ethan’s Syrah, Napa Valley. Well-made Cali Syrah. Lush and supple and rich and sweet fruit, there is no doubt about the origin, but this pleasure model offers fast and friendly times in a sexy, but almost-thinking-about-being elegant dress. No, it does not compete with the N. Rhone for my heart, but its very nice for what it is … Well….that was my first thought, for the first four or five minutes……then the sweetness became cloying. The softness became a lack of intrigue and nuance. The wine became unforgettable. Unfortunately, it never came back to impress. Not sure what I paid on release. In the end, 86 points for me.
TN: 2000 Lesec Chateauneuf du Pape “Les Galets Blonds.” Sweet jammy berry nose, following similarly on the palate along with a strong kirsch-dominated liqueur quality. This is very pleasing, though not overly complex. There is a drying character and maybe even a touch of char (??) on the finish, which I would guess may come from an overdone wood treatment, but that is pure speculation – though, otherwise, I don’t know where it would come from. I can’t figure it out. In any event, enjoyable. $20. 89 points.
TN: 1995 Bourgneuf-Vayron, Pomerol. Dirt with a bit of dark fruit and burnt wood. Nothing to write home about – little complexity at all, really – though food and air perks it up a bit. The hopeful would say this is still closed up…I am not among them. Even with air, this is rather sour and compressed. $34. 86 points.
TN: Chateau de Campuget “La Sommeliere,” Costieres de Nimes, Cuvee Prestige Syrah. I think this was the 2001, but it may have been the 2000 - will have to check the bottle when I get home. A touch of spice on the nose. A fairly enjoyable and rather furry, warm climate Syrah. Mellow and not overbearing on the positive side, though just not very complex and perhaps a bit harsh on the finish. With air, the wood (I guess) drys the finish. Drink up. 86 points. $21.
TN: 2005 Champalou Vouvray La Cuve des Fondraux. Tropical nose. Huge cooked Bannana’s Foster with an herbally lavender character. It lacks a bit of cut, however. Still, a strong value at $14. 89 points, just.
TN: Juan Gil, Jumilla, Spain. 100% Monastrell. Sweet nose with oak spice. Left hanging on the vine a bit too long, I’d guess, this has a sweetness on the palate that is framed in new wood. A touch roasted. If I had any more, I would wait 1-2 years and hope the oak is absorbed and hope it pucks up more detail, though I can’t imagine that will improve the sweetness that pulls back just short of sickly. Very big for Mouvedre with big fruit, for those who look for that. I would have guessed a mild Aussie Shiraz. $16. 83 points.
TN: 1995 Bertrand Ambroise, Nuits St. Georges. With air, sweet liquor of strawberry with a bit of spice. Not complex, but pleasing. Ready, willing, and able, though there remains some drying wood tannin on the finish. $30. 87 points.
TN: 2001 Chateau Joanin Becot, Cotes de Castillon. Interestingly, nowhere on the bottle does it say the appellation, which I surmise is the result of a disappointing marketing trend. However, it is a telling decision for this wine, as the wine itself speaks of no particular place. Instead, it presents as simply a heavily oaked merlot-dominated wine, probably from Bordeaux, but also just as possibly from anywhere. This is the type of wine critics decry as “Parkerized.” While I do not like that term, this is a good example of what such critics are getting at, and I understand the negativity toward this type of wine. Consumed over two nights, the wine never lost its oak-dominated vanilla and berry milkshake quality. Exhausting, it left me thirsty for a glass of water. Underneath the excessive make-up, there is some decent fruit, but I don’t see time ever making this bottle either interesting or elegant. I hope the 2005 is not like this, as I think I bought a few. $18. 83 points.
TN: 2003 Le Grand Vin du Ch. Haut Beyzac, Haut Medoc. Nice persistent tannins, not too noticeable. Oak well in control and happily not overdone at all. And this does not suffer from the 2003 disease! To my tastes, somewhat similar to Charmail in style, but not quite as showy. Hints of smoke and chocolate. Very easy drinking right now. To my surprise, the half bottle I poured off and put in the refrigerator did not do too well, which made me concerned. $24. A very solid 90 points, at least on night one.
TN: 2000 Janasse Chateuneuf du Pape Chaupin. Not much in the way of garrigue or complex old-school Provencial character, but I guess that is picking nits. This wine is all powerful, pure, rich kirsch liqueur. A pleasure model in the positive sense, I am only left wising for a touch more character. Surprisingly ripe, on the nose especially. A hair too ripe for me to really embrace the wine as a favorite because it taxes the palate just a bit. The finish is very long. A well made wine that is just beginning to open up. I’ll hold off on the rest of mine for a few years. $37. 92 points, but just.
TN: 2000 Lesec Chateauneuf du Pape “Rubis.” After a musty start that took about an hour and a half to completely blow off, this is really drinking well now significant air. This may not be overly complex, but it is overly pleasing, with plenty of kirsch and black fruits, glycerin, and subtle Provencial herbs. A joy to drink once I got passed the mustiness (happily, this was not corked – an initial question in my mind). $23. By the three hour point only, quite lush and easy, very pure, and a solid 90 points.
TN: 2005 Chandon de Briailles Pernand-Vergellesses Ile des Vergelesses. Red cherry fruit with a liqueur quality from the gylcerin. Still, light on its feet, with a splash of tart cranberry to bring it back to Burgundy. Slight menthol. Very fine tannin. Lots held in reserve beneath the abundant fruit. The wealth of fruit, especially on day two, bellies the complexity that will come in ten years, which I’d guess this will need as a minimum time investment when this closes up. I am supremely pleased to have another case and a half resting in the cellar. In this market, a real value at $36 (all in!). With time, 92 points.
TN: 2002 Noon Eclipse. I saved some of this overnight in the refrigerator in an air-tight bottle to see if it improved. Unfortunately, the first evening’s tasting note has been deleted from the site, but I can report that it has improved on the second night – for what it is. Last night, even with 3 hours of air, I rated it 83 points only for my tastes and I considered it something more akin to a beverage you would receive from a 7-Eleven than a wine shop. Today, I do not change that opinion, as it tastes “manufactured”, as opposed to a natural product. That said, it is more enjoyable the second day, though it remains a caricature of a wine. 85 points.
TN: 2005 Charvin Cotes du Rhone. At first, rather odd, in that there was an overwhelming sense of grapefruit. Yes, grapefruit. That ameliorated and this emerged as a very nice Cotes du Rhone – all Grenache in character. Light bodied, but pleasing. I think a few years will improve things. I may get some more to see what happens. $16. 87 points.
TN: 2005 Haut Segottes, St. Emilion. This wine seems fairly old school – and likely to be misunderstood by some. Lighter bodied compared to many modern St. Emilions, but with a lovely, slightly understated persistence. Spice, floral notes, and some unformed hints at complexity to come. Earth. Not spoofilated. I am not familiar with this producer and I could not find any information from the usual sources, but it tastes like there maybe a high cab franc content mixed with the merlot. It seems like it needs a fair stay in the cellar to develop. Tannins are fine. This will clamp up hard for a long sleep, I guess. That said, I enjoyed this bottle over the last two nights. I like it very much, and I may lay down a few, but I would be much more interested if it was in the $25 range. $35ish. 89(++?) points.
Tn: 1996 Domaine Chevalier, Pessac-Leognan. A lovely, maturing claret. Good fruit persistent on the finish. Tobacco aplenty. Elegant and understated in a positive way. A charming dinner companion! $29 (recently - a nice score). 90 points, just.
TN: 2001 Tardieu-Laurent CDR Guy Louis. Nice underlying dark fruit dominated on nose and palate by the char from its wood treatment. Can be enjoyed with an hour or so of air, but this is not what I want from a Cotes du Rhone. I’d wait another year or two to see if it breaks its oak bonds. $15. 86 points.