TN: Tablas Creek / Denner / Hoage

WINE TALK
1

TABLAS CREEK / DENNER / HOAGE - Templeton, CA (20/06/2009-21/06/2009)

I was in Morro Bay for a few days and decided to visit a few producers in the Paso Robles area - the recos I got were to try some wines from producers on the “west side”, i.e. around Templeton. I was interested in Tablas Creek because they were supposed to make some French styled wines, and wanted to visit a couple of other producers who might be more representative of the area.

My bias is strongly pro-French style so you might want to take some of the notes with a grain of salt. I’m also a tough grader. What surprised me the most was the prices, that I thought were really quite high, especially for the entry-level wines that felt like basic quaffers most of the time, and that I would therefore imagine more in the $10-15 range. I’m really nonplussed by how some people seem to find “value” in some relatively simple $35 wines - for that price I’d expect something serious already, not a pizza wine. I was also perplexed at the pricing policy that consists of selling wine at the winery for more money than at most retailers - what sense does that make? Way to thank your customers for coming all the way to visit you.

Note: the TNs are (mercifully?) short, just a few notes I wrote down while tasting and I didn’t really edit them to make them poetic or colorful… therefore they are quick impressions rather than fully fledged TNs, since I didn’t get to spend that much time with each wine.

One last funny thing, in the “oops” department, I tried to visit “Lone Madrone” because it’s the same winemaker than Tablas Creek but his wines at LM are supposed to be a bit quirkier, more original, whatever. Interestingly enough that day they had only 5 wines open for tasting (it being Father’s Day, a Sunday), and it was all the most boring stuff ever, none of the quirky varietals or anything. And I especially wanted to see what this guy could do with Zins, but there was only one open. The first person I talked to as a bit rough, explained that it was “that much” for “these wines” and expected a “yes/no” answer - so I said “ah well I wanted to try the Zins” and she replied “we don’t have that many Zins, maybe you’re confusing us with another winery” o_O Fortunately her colleague (who I think was in charge) came to the rescue and did some damage control by explaining that all the wines were unfortunately not open for tasting, and that she’d give me a free pour of the Zin they had open that day if that’s really what I wanted to try…

Terry Hoage Vineyards
The tasting room attendant was super cute, so that was a plus :slight_smile: Re: the wines, I thought they were fine but I didn’t care for them too much nor for that style. This is a good example of a winery where I was baffled by the pricing policy - only $15 difference between the first and the last wine - which meant entry-level wines seemed awfully overpriced for their quality level.

  • 2008 Terry Hoage Vineyards Grenache Blanc The Gap - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (20/06/2009)
    Clean, nice acidic backbone, good but simple for $32.
  • 2006 Terry Hoage Vineyards Cuvée The Pick - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (20/06/2009)
    55% G 27% S 11% M 6% Counoise
    Elegant nose, light, quite toasted, not heavy at all, good density in the mouth, spicy, decent finish, reminds me a bit of d’Arenberg d’Arry’s style ($38)
  • 2006 Terry Hoage Vineyards Syrah The Hedge - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (20/06/2009)
    Getting into serious wine territory with this one, could pass as a Rhone but still tastes/feels like a “well-mannered” Aussie, quite complex and promising ($45)
  • 2006 Terry Hoage Vineyards 5 Blocks Cuvee - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (20/06/2009)
    57% S 29% G 7% M 7% Cinsault
    Much bigger than the others, much sweeter too, also feeling more alcoholic - seems more complex but not sure how much I can drink of this ($48)

Denner
Another example of weird pricing, everything is between $30 and $40 - from the most basic white wine (which tastes more like a $10 quaffer to me than anything) to the profound red they produce. I’m still scratching my head on that one.

  • 2007 Denner Theresa - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Very fresh and crisp, simple CdR style, a bit bigger though and some exotic fruit, a bit alcoholic, a bit of minerality - not good not bad ($30)
  • 2007 Denner Viognier - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Supposedly little oak influence on this one but I could still feel it, though - nice nose but a bit disappointing in the mouth, a bit too “fruit cocktail” ($30)
  • 2006 Denner Mourvedre - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    A bit muted on the nose and off-taste on the palate, just not very interesting, no animal notes whatsoever - bad bottle? ($40)
  • 2007 Denner Grenache - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Very pure, dense nose of cherries, the grenache comes out clearly in this wine - however disappointing in the mouth, doesn’t hold up to the promise of the nose - average. ($42)
  • 2005 Denner Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Great nose, deep and complex, cote-rotie of the oaky/toasted style, good concentration in the mouth (no fruit notes whatsoever), decent length - feels a bit big/flabby though, not sure there’s enough acidity to make it work. ($40)
  • 2006 Denner The Dirt Worshipper - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Complex nose, more fruit than the 05 Syrah, cherry (no grenache though) + flowers (the viognier part?) on the nose. Good mouthfeel, strong tannins, good structure with decent acidity, going towards coffee/expresso in the mouth, good length. That would be my buy. ($40)

Tablas Creek - rosé and whites
Good level overall and I can understand the old world reputation that this winery gets. However once again the pricing policy is dubious - everything is between $23 and $27. Why in heaven would I pay $25 for a the super-ultra-basic 2007 CdT blanc when I can get the 2008 Vermentino for $27. These 2 wines don’t even deserve to be mentioned in the same sentence!

  • 2007 Tablas Creek Cotes de Tablas Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Very fresh, light, crisp, fruity, lemon, simple - fits the bill for a quaffer - but at $25 per?!?
  • 2007 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Pumped up version of the Cotes de Tablas, more CdP in style, roussanne comes out a lot ($40)
  • 2008 Tablas Creek Rosé - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Dark rosé with strong flavors, fruity, still fresh though, slightly sweet, good length - quite rich and tannic for a rosé - would work well with sturdy food, maybe not so much as a quaffer ($27)
  • 2007 Tablas Creek Chardonnay Antithesis - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    More “chablis like” on the palate than on the nose, but still not really close to the real thing. God minerality, no length. Marketed as “unwooded” but NFW (careful reading says “full malo in neutral oak barrel” - whatever neutral oak is… - and “gentle oak” - gentle oak ain’t what it used to be). ($23)
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Very fresh, oxydative style on the nose (green apple), chalky, not sure I really recognize the Grenache Blanc in this. Good length. ($27)
  • 2008 Tablas Creek Vermentino - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Now this feels unwooded - crisp and sharp, pure and clean, somehow reminds me more of Chablis than the Antithesis with some chalky/salty notes. Very nice. ($27)
    (tasted again on 25/06/2009 - not quite as mineral as I remembered but still very good)

Tablas Creek - reds
Big variations here, some of them were really really disappointing (2006 Tannat, 2005 Esprit - although in both cases it can be due to bad bottles - how is that even possible in a tasting room?!?) and some real gems (2004 Esprit, 2006 Grenache). Still probably not as old world overall as they’d like to.

  • 2006 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Nice cherry nose, very Rhone-ish, quite astringent/tannic, relatively pure but simple, fat mouthfeel, a bit of alcoholic burn on the finish. ($25)
  • 2005 Tablas Creek Syrah - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Concentrated syrah nose, very peppery/spicy, minty/fresh and meaty in the mouth, dark fruit, quite astringent and tannic, teeth staining type - good but probably not to drink right now. ($35)
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Grenache - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    90% G 10% S. Strong cherry on the nose (surprise surprise), quite complex on the palate, excellent CdP level wine for grenache lovers. ($28)
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Tannat - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Smells very fresh and feels surprisingly NOT tannic for this grape - very surprising and nothing in common with the sturdy wines one can get from this grape. Lacking character, almost watery, very simple fruity wine. ($35)
  • 2002 Tablas Creek Las Tablas Estates Glenrose Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Slightly metallic/bretty nose, quite complex on the palate, drinking easily with finally something that’s not only all fruit all the time - very old world in style. ($32.50)
    (tasted again on 25/06/2009 - no bretty element this time, lost quite a lot of complexity in the process and the sweet fruit reared its ugly head - felt like a Spanish Rhone blend and this is not a compliment).
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Pure dense bright fruit on the nose, lots of cherry, very bright in the mouth, a touch of alcohol (burning a bit), style of a point-seeking CdP (think Janasse Chaupin). $45
  • 2005 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Nose: brett. Palate: barnyard. Finish: decent, with some fruit (finally). Verdict: did they import some brett from Beaucastel as well as the vines? ($45)
  • 2004 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Typical slightly barnyardy CdP nose with some cherry aromas, complex and deep, very bright and pure in the mouth - a brilliant wine. ($45)

Tablas Creek - sweet wines
I was lucky to try those, they are really good although as with most vin de paille the price is a bit of a turn off. I’ll still drink them whenever I get the opportunity :slight_smile:

  • 2006 Tablas Creek Vin de Paille “SacreRouge” Paso Robles - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Not much to say, typical style of Southern France sweet red (think e.g. sweet Rasteau from Beaurenard) - very good in this style. ($45)
  • 2005 Tablas Creek Vin de Paille - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Fresh and concentrated (no kidding) and sweet (really?), complex nose, really great on the palate, only thing is that it’s maybe lacking a bit on the finish. ($65)
  • 2006 Tablas Creek Vin de Paille Quintessence - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles (21/06/2009)
    Quite different from the regular VdP - this one is really pure and focused compared to the other one’s “fireworks” style - not explosive, more understated but really great as well. ($85)

All in all I had the impression to try very few really good wines, and quite a bit of overpriced run of the mill type of stuff (the kind of wines I’d typically care much more for at 1/3rd of their current price). I know the prices of (real) Rhones exploded a bit in recent years, but for my taste the Rhone wines are still better AND cheaper…

Posted from CellarTracker

2

I don’t think Terry Hoage considers the less expensive wines his entry level wines. Just a different blend and grapes. I think he prices where he could sell them. Thanks for the notes. I like Hoage wines but not for every day. They are serious wines.

3

I get your point for the reds, since even the cheapest one was indeed quite interesting (actually I didn’t diss them at all), but for the white I wouldn’t call it a “serious wine”. In any case good for him if he sells them at that price - although I have a feeling that Bordeaux isn’t the only region that’s going to sit on a lot of stock in the near future.

4

You notes on the Denner wines agree with mine. I thought the Dirt Worshipper was the best of the bunch we tasted as well and the only wine worth the tariff to me.

5

Thanks for your TN’s. [thumbs-up.gif] You are probably right about the 2006 Denner Mourved being a bad bottle … that wine is huge, and is, along with the Dirt Worshipper, one of my two favorite Denner bottlings.

6

Thanks for the notes Guillaume! Lauren and I were there last September and overall, I had the same impression. Some decent to good wines, but very little value. Prices seemed to be on par with RRV pinot, with varieties that are usually much less expensive to produce.

7

I too find the pricing, particularly of low end cuvee’s, confusing. I like the Tablas Cotes de Tablas wines, they’re solid wines, but I don’t buy them simply because they are typically double the price of comparable CdR wines. If these wines were $15, I’d buy them by the case.

8

Absolutely spot-on! We bought the Dirt Worshipper while at the winery, and took it to Hoppe’s (Cayucos) that same night for dinner. [worship.gif]

Colin

BTW-When in the Paso Robles, Arroyo Grande, Edna Valley or Santa Ynez Valley, Hoppes in Cayucos is a culinary experience not to be forgotten. I say this as a “foodie” with no “ITB” interest. [welldone.gif]

9

A bad bottle because it wasn’t Bretty? He he. That’s a switch!

10

I associate animal notes to mourvedre somehow, I think regardless of brett - therefore was a bit surprised, same with the non-tannic tannat, etc.

11

I also wanted to post a quick note re: mourvedre . . . I have found a few CA versions which certainly show plenty of ‘animalistic’ characteristics but not ALL of them do . . . Though most are using the same clone, because of climate variation of where the grapes are planted, oftentimes a more fruit forward, brambly fruit and pepper quality comes forth, with the leather saddle and animalistic aspects either on the back end of non-existent . . . I have also found with domestic mourvedres that the animalistic qualities, if present, will emerge more prominently with longer time in the barrel - or in the bottle . . .

Just my $.02 . . .

Cheers!

12

My theory on Mourvedre is this (and mind you, this is just my opinion):
Since Mourvedre tends to have higher levels of cinammic acids (the stuff the wee Bretty beasties like to much on to create their stinky poo), if a winery has any kind of Brett problem, the Mourvedre is more likely than some other wines to become infested. I have had many many many Mourvedres that were “clean”, and tend not to think that animalistic qualities are not typical of the grape itself.
IDK, I could be wrong. That’s just my opinion, FWIW.

13

My bias is strongly pro-French style so you might want to take some of the notes with a grain of salt. I’m also a tough grader. What surprised me the most was the prices, that I thought were really quite high, especially for the entry-level wines that felt like basic quaffers most of the time, and that I would therefore imagine more in the $10-15 range. I’m really nonplussed by how some people seem to find “value” in some relatively simple $35 wines - for that price I’d expect something serious already, not a pizza wine. I was also perplexed at the pricing policy that consists of selling wine at the winery for more money than at most retailers - what sense does that make? Way to thank your customers for coming all the way to visit you.

Hence the reason I rarely buy domestic Syrah/Rhone style wines anymore. Many are too simple for their price points. There are exceptions but by and large it seems no one is willing or able to craft a very good CdR competitor in the $13-20 range.