TN: Sunday Night Dinner

SUNDAY NIGHT DINNER - Paris Club - Chicago, IL (4/13/2014)

Jason was in town for some work so a couple folks got together at Paris Club to open some bottles. Terrific selection of wines and all paired well with the copious amounts of food that was prepared for us. It was great to meet Jason, and the dinner was a lot of fun all around.

  • 1971 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
    A beautiful bottle of champagne that had wonderful aged notes of mushroom, pears, minerals, and lemon zest. There was still a really nice energy to the wine that was the perfect juxtaposition to its older character. Super wine. (95 pts.)
  • 1996 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    A real treat for this Chablis addict! Thanks to Jason for opening this. Aromas were pure oceanic and citrus. Seaweed, lemon and lime zest, seashells, and a hint of lemon oil. Despite its age, this had lots of power. The texture of the palate was oily and rich with lots of salty lemons and limes with some mushrooms and floral notes beneath the fruit. Dazzling from start to finish. (96 pts.)
  • 2004 Louis Carillon Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Thanks to Jason for opening. I splash decanted this an hour before dinner and in retrospect it should have been opened 2-3 hours in advance instead. Huge aromas of lemon and flint on the nose with some pears and apples as it aired out a bit. The palate was intense - one of the richest, most balanced Chardonnays I can remember. Tons of citrus, florals, and fresh pears. With some age, the complexity and depth this should acquire might turn it into something legendary, but at this point it’s JUST a stellar BBM. (94 pts.)
  • 1968 Hanzell Pinot Noir - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
    I shared the sentiment of others when I had serious doubts at first that this was actually pinot. Jason thought it had more of a port-like tone to it and I thought there must be some petite sirah in there. After letting it sit in the glass a bit, some of the roasty tones faded and more classic pinot notes of sous bois, soft florals, and mineralty began to build. An absolute treat to try, big thanks to Chris for bringing this. (90 pts.)
  • 1978 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
    Wonderful from start to finish. The first whiff was fireworks. Tons of brothy, beefy notes at first with whisps of florals and red fruits afterwards. Loved the power and elegance of the palate - lots of rich cherries, meat, mushrooms, and roses. Just perfectly composed and deep. Consensus WOTN - thanks Jason for bringing. (97 pts.)
  • 1988 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
    I screwed this one up I think. Should have decanted this 1-2 hours before dinner, but we popped and poured it. In a flight with a 1968 Hanzell Pinot and a 1978 Vogue BM, this had the sternest personality. Lots of dark fruit, florals and acid on the palate I got the sense that there was some very fine material in there, but it was just wound up a bit too tightly. By the night’s end, some of the berry and meaty flavors began to emerge. (92 pts.)
  • 1975 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    off bottle NR (flawed)
  • 1949 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray
    The nose was a bit off-putting. I think the general consensus was that it was a distinct urine smell. There was also a hint of apple, pear and some typical wooly chenin character. Despite the aromatics being a bit strange, I thought the palate was far more exciting. Tons of stuff going on with a somewhat oily texture, lots of floral notes, and pear. I really liked the minerality and acidity that were integrated on the finish of the wine keeping it fresh at 65 years of age. (90 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Very nice. Old vogue is a treat! Need to hide my moooooooses

Great set of wines Matt. Glad to hear the 78 Vogue lived up to expectations.

Shame about the '88 Rousseau Mazis - I had that a few weeks ago, decanted for a few hours and it showed incredibly well with air (though as you say a touch stern initially.) Real bummer that Latour was corked - that’s a really fantastic wine that’s drinking really well now.

Looks like you guys still drank damn well though!

Sounds awesome Matt. How’s the food ?

It was great to share some fun bottles of wine with the Chicago crew.

-'71 Dom Perignon - beautiful, fully mature Champagne. A treat.

-'96 Dauvvisat Les Clos - nice to have it not be oxidized! Stunning bottle

-'04 Carillon BBM - needed more air. Last sip was the best, but as Matt said, I should’ve had him decant this a few hours earlier.

-'78 Vogue Bonne Mares - Best bottle of '78 Vogue of any vineyard I’ve ever had.

-'88 Rousseau Mazi- had this a few months ago where the bottle had a lot more time to breathe and that one showed better then this one.

-'68 Hanzell - at the beginning smelled like a tawny port and continued to behave as if something else was blended in there. After 30 min or so the nose and palate truly focused to more aged Pinot character.

-'75 Latour - not corked, just not up to par and given the quality of wine on the table.

-'49 Huet - Not the best aged Chenin or bottle of this most likely, but still a nice way to finish up the evening.

Look forward to seeing you all again in the fall!

This was my third time eating there since the remodel, and I’ve enjoyed each meal. The dishes can be a bit heavy/overly-filling so it’s best to order wisely. What sets Paris Club a part is their service. Truly A+.

Wowzas. For the 49 Huet, I wonder if it needed some time as those old Huets need to blow off some funk, but Urine is not a smell I associate with old Huet, so maybe slightly off. Stellar lineup nonetheless!

Yep, next time I’d double decant the '49 Huet 3-4 hours in advance and keep it in the fridge or on ice. That usually helps it open up nicely and freshens up the nose - although I’ve never gotten a urine smell in any event…

Would love to find a good bottle of the 1968 Hanzell, it is Mel’s birthyear. There is definitely no PS in that wine and I’m glad it opened up nicely! Great line-up, too bad about the Latour. 78 Vogue Musigny remains my favorite Burgundy I have had more than once.