TN: Some Wines from the Archives with Friends...(long/boring)

Saturday we had a new friend who’s a MasterSommelier to try a few wines that might be new to him. So, over a 7 hr tasting we tried:

  1. DavidBruce WhiteRiesling SantaCruzCnty (16.2%) LosGatos 1979: Deep brown/PX color; strong oxidized/Madeira-like slight recognizable old R complex nose; strong oxidized/maderized/sherry-like slightly old R flavor w/ dreadful very bitter/wet dog fur/acetaldhyde finish; some redeeming features up front like a sherry and & a bit of old R character, but the finish destroys this wine.

  1. Skerk Vitovska IGP: VeneziaGiulia (12.5%; OliverMcCrumWines) Prepotto/Trieste 2013: Deep golden/burnished bronze color; slight ViniMacerati/phenolic/resiny rather orangey/honeyed/honey comb/graham cracker fairly spicy light appley bit smokey/coffee rather complex quite lovely aromatic nose; some tart/tangy bit austere light phenolic/VM some honeyed/honeycomb/orangey/graham cracker fairly complex flavor w/ light tannic bite; very long/lingering slight phenolic/VM rather orangey/honeycomb/graham cracker rather complex finish w/ slight tannic bite; when served at room temperature, a lovely example of how a VM can evolve; will still go another 4-8 yrs. $26.00

  1. Vigne Marina Coppi Fausto Timorasso DOC: Colli Tortonesi (14%; TheSortingTable) Francesco Bellocchio/Castellania 2013: Med.gold color; very fragrant floral/gardenias/quite spicy/peach blossom slight mineral/perfumed talc/chalk dust almost R/Viognier lovely aromatic nose; some tart totally dry quite spicy/Timo/floral/gardenias light chalky slight metallic/tangy bit austere bit complex flavor; very long/lingering tart/tangy/bit metallic very spicy/Timo/floral/gardenias bit chalky finish; some rich/lush character you get in Timo and much more attractive & not as austere when served near room temperature; as good as the WalterMassa versions. $51.50 (KK)

  1. Castelli Nebbiolo Estate GreenVlly of RRV/SonomaCnty (DryFarmed; 14.1%; Aged: neutral Fr.oak for 48 mo.; www.CastelliVineyards.com; 80 cs) Emilio & Laura Castelli/Sebastapol 2013: Med.dark color w/ slight bricking; very strong floral/Nebb/rose petal/lilacs some pungent/road tar light pencilly/oak somewhat complex nose not as high-toned as the Vajra; fairly tart/tangy strong floral/Nebb/rose petal/lilacs/violets some tarry/pungent light pencilly/oak bit earthy/dusty some complex somewhat structured flavor w/ modest bitey tannins; very long/lingering very strong floral/lilacs/rose petal/Nebb somewhat tart/tangy some tarry/pungent fairly rich/structured light pecilly/oak some complex finish w/ light bitey tannins; a beautiful expression of Calif Nebb more like a Valtelline than B/B; starting to resolve the tannins but needs another 4-8 yrs yet; one of the best of Calif Nebbs. $26.00

  1. GD Vajra Nebbiolo Dd’OC: Langhe Clare J.C. (13.5%; EB) Barolo 2019: Med.light color; lovely fragrant Nebb/violets/lilacs/floral very slight pungent/tar quite aromatic pure Nebb nose; quite tart/tangy very slight off-dry light bodied very perfumed/floral/Nebb/violets/rose petal/strawberry slight pungent/spicy/tar flavor w/ light tangy tannins; long quite tart/tangy near-dry very floral/violets/rose petal/Nebb finish w/ light tangy tannins; not a profound Nebb but a very pretty expression of the floral side of the Nebb grape at a great price. $18.50 (KK)

  1. Ch.Feullet Torrette Dd’OP: Valle d’Aosta (90% PetiteRouge/10% Mayolet; 13.5%; Lottov 07/19; KermitLynchImports) Maurizio Fiorano/St.Pierre 2018: Very dark color; intense grapey/plummy/boysenberry/licorice/bit chocolaty/ripe slight earthy/dusty/OV slight pencilly/oak lovely Alpine red nose;lightly tart/tangy strong plummy/boysenberry/licorice/ripe bit earthy deep/ripe flavor w/ modest ripe/lush tannins; very long ripe/boysenberry/licorice/chocolaty bit dusty/OV light pencilly/oak finish w/ modest ripe tannins; one of the best examples of PetiteRouge I can recall having, at a great price. $28.00 (KK)

  1. Jaffurs PetiteSirah ThompsonVnyd/SantaBarbaraCnty (Archibald Cuvee; 15.7%; First Vintage) 2003: Very dark/black color w/ no bricking; very intense blackberry/boysenberry/PS rather classic Thompson/peppery some toasty/smokey/Fr.oak fairly youthful complex nose; soft intense blackberry/boysenberry/PS/bit spicy strong toasty/smokey/Fr.oak classic Thompson/black pepper slight earthy fairly youthful complex flavor w/ modest ripe tannins; very long/lingering soft/ripe intense blackberry/boysenberry/PS/bit peppery some toasty/oak bit earthy/rustic some complex finish w/ modest ripe bit drying tannins; amazingly youthful and loads of PS fruit yet; probably near its peak & not going to get much better; pretty amazing for a 17 yr old PS; drying tannins are starting to show thru a bit.

  1. Edmunds St.John Syrah BassettiVnyd/SLOCnty (13.7%) Intuition&Blind Luck/Berkeley 2001: Very dark color w/ little bricking; very strong blackberry/Syrah/black olive tapenade some c-c/black pepper some smokey/pencilly/oak some Rhonish/roasted/smoked meats/pungent quite complex nose; quite tart/tangy strong blackberry/Syrah/ripe rather pungent/black olive tapenade slight c-c/cracked black pepper rather Rhonish/roasted/roasted meats/smokey light pencilly/oak slight rustic/sauvage/Cornas-like fairly complex flavor w/ light round tannins; very long/lingering strong blackberry/ripe Syrah strong c-c/black olive tapenade rather Rhonish/rustic/smoked meats bit tart/tangy rather complex finish w/ light ripe tannins; a beautiful complex very Rhonish Calif Syrah some like a Clape Cornas; probably close to its peak I would guess; Larry’s contribution.

  1. AlbanVnyds Syrah Estate/EdnaVlly (13.9%) ArroyoGrande 1999: Very dark color w/ little bricking; intense ripe/boysenberry/Syrah/blackberry bit c-c/black pepper very strong burnt/charred/Fr.oak some alcoholic/fumey some complex nose; fairly tart strong ripe/Syrah/boysenberry/blackberry bit black pepper very strong toasted/charred/burnt/Fr.oak fairly complex bit alcoholic flavor w/ modest smooth/ripe/tannins; very long/lingering very strong burnt/charred/Fr.oak strong boysenberry/ripe Syrah/blackberry some complex finish w/ some ripe/soft tannins; one of the best older Alban Syrahs I’ve had where the fruit has outlasted the tannins but very much dominated by the burnt/charred oak; like walking in the leftovers of a forest fire; tannins are fully resolved and starting to dry out just a bit. $40.00

  1. SineQuaNon Raven#5 Syrah Calif (15.5%) Ventura 2006: Very dark color w/ no bricking; intense blackberry/spicy/Syrah/ripe bit licorice/pungent some toasty/Fr.oak/smokey more complex nose; bit soft fairly structured very strong blackberry/Syrah/very spicy bit c-c/black pepper some toasty/Fr.oak bit roasted/Rhonish/w-c rather complex flavor w/ some smooth tannins; very long/lingering very spicy/blackberry/Syrah/ripe bit c-c/black pepper some toasty/Fr.oak fairly complex finish w/ modest smooth tannins; more interesting than the Alban & more spicy & less primary fruit & oak more integrated; loads of classic SBC Syrah fruit & probably approaching it peak; shows no sign of the high alcohol; a wonderful Syrah

11a. OjaiVnyds Syrah ThompsonVnyd/SantaBarbaraCnty (14.5%) 1999: Dark color w/ light bricking; strong toasty/oak/smokey some peppery/blackberry/Syrah bit earthy/dusty some complex nose; soft rather blackberry/Syrah/Thompson peppery/spicy fairly toasty/smokey/Fr.oak bit drying out/tired slight cedary/oldRed flavor w/ light smooth/drying tannins; very long soft bit drying out/tired strong blackberry/Syrah/peppery some toasty/smokey/oak some complex finish w/ light drying tannins; still offers up plenty of mature Syrah fruit & shows the peppery character of ThompsonVnyd but starting to dry out a bit & starting its downhill decline.


  1. Hexamer Riesling Meddersheimer Rhein-Grafenberg Spatlese (QmP; A.P.Nr. 7 745 028 014 02; 9.0%) Meddersheim/Nahe 2001: Deep golden/burnished bronze color; some valve oil/gout de petrol beautiful oldR/cedary bit smokey slight botrytis/peachy/apricotty bit pineapple/mango/R quite complex nose; fairly sweet bit soft/ripe heavy bodied some petrol/valve oil some R/mango/pineapple rather classic oldR/cedary/bit smokey slight peachy/botrytis quite complex beautiful finish; very long/lingering quite sweet (5%-8% r.s.) bit soft classic oldR/cedary some mango/R/pineapple some petrol beautiful complex finish; a beautiful example of a mature/complex R and should go out another 10-15 yrs; rather on the sweet side so not go very well w/ food but a delight to taste on its own.
    $15.00 (LB)

  1. TheFirestoneVnyd JohannisbergRiesling SlctdHrvst
    TheAmbassador’sVnyd/SantaYnezVlly/Calif (SaH: 44 Brix; RS: 23.5 Brix; 9.0%) LosOlivos 1981
    : Deep brown/black/PX/motor oil color; very intense raisened/botrytis/peachy/apricotty/rather PX-like bit complex nose; bit tart very sweet intense raisened/botrytis/apricotty bit complex finish; very long/lingering very sweet intense raisened/botrytis/apricotty bit complex finish; classic old Calif TBA but the raisened/PX-like character is pushing the botrytis into the background.

More Pipposlotte from TheBloodyPulpit:

  1. Stephen used to run the wine list at a restaurant in Venice called Gjelina. He now works for a company in Glendale called VineVault that provides wine storage vaults and wine fulfillment services in SoCal. His Mom is a good friend of Susan’s, so I thought it would be fun to have him & Melissa over to try a few wines with which he might not be familiar, including some from my archives I wanted to try. The above wines were what I came up with.

  1. The DavidBruce was one of three btls I pulled from Blair’s cellar back last December. All stored on its side under good temperature control. All three were pretty seriously ullaged, over a third ullaged away. The first one was pretty shot, the 2’nd one kinda interesting, and this third one probably the saddest of the lot. When I stood this btl upright, I noticed that several days later, that the cork had dropped down into the wine. So much for storing a wine on its side to keep the cork swollen & not drying out!!
    In its youth, this was a pretty bizarre wine. Barrel frmtd & brl aged in new Fr.oak; it was more like a typical DavidBruce Chard. But I thought it a pretty interesting wine if you didn’t demand it resemble a German Riesling.
    This btl actually had a small bit of old R character to it like an old Mosel R. But it was pretty much dominated by the sherry/Madeira character and the dreadful finish destroyed any enjoyment in this wine. ****

  1. Skerk: I love, across the board, the wines of SandiSkerk. His whites are mostly made w/ skin-contact/ViniMacerati. I wanted to show this wine as a good example to Stephen how VM wines can really evolve to eotic wines w/ some age. I tasted ahead of the guests and at a fairly cold temperature. I was terribly disappointed. The wine was very severe/austere, quite acidic, and pretty tannic. Not a pleasant experience. But when we tasted this later at room temperature, it was spectacular and a great example of a VM w/ some age. It’s important that these VM be served at room temperature and not at white wine temperatures.

  1. J.C.Clare: Some 10 yrs ago, Darrell Corti came across a TN from ThomasJefferson when he was ambassador to France. This was before Barolo/Barbaresco and described the kind of Nebb that came from the Piemonte back in those days. Darrell went to the Vajra folks and asked them if they could recreate a Nebb that tasted like TJ described. This is the wine that resulted from their attempt. It describes Nebb as it might have tasted in TJ’s time. The Clare describes what back then the British described as a light red wine, a Claret of Bdx or a Clairette. The JC stands for Jefferson/Corti cuvee. It has the classic acidity & tannins you get from Nebb but not a severe/austere as young Langhe or B/B Nebb. A really fun, not too serious expression of Nebb.

  1. Castelli: This is the wnry of Emilio & Laura Castelli, midway between Graton & Occidental. Fairly cold growing area for Nebb. Emilio farms his vnyds according to Masanobu Fukuoka. At our NEB (Nebbiolo Enthusiasts & Believers) gatherings, Emilios Nebb is usually right up there at the top of American Nebbs. He is one of the founding fathers of the NEB movement in Calif.

  1. Jaffurs: This is the inaugural vintage of the Jaffurs PS. First crop of PS from ThompsonVnyd. LarryArchibald helped in the production of this wine, hence the Archibald Cuvee on the label. The Jaffurs PS is consistently one of the best PS’s being mmade in Calif. This PS is in amazing shape for a 17 yr old PS, but seems unlikely to get much better.

  1. Torrette: This is a red wine from the Val d’Aosta that must be at least 70% PetiteRouge, with other varieties possibly blended. PR is indigenous to the Vd’A. Both Mayolet & Cornalin are also indigenous grapes but only small quantities are grown. Both make lovely fragrant wines on their own. Stephen expressed a like for PR, so I opened this up for him to try. This wine is really quite impressive and richer & less earthy than Torrette tends to show.

  1. Syrahs: Of the Syrahs, the EdStJohn was my clear favorite because of its greater complexity & Rhonish character; not nearly as powerful Syrah fruit and bombastic as the Alban or SQN. The Alban was pretty much dominated by the burnt/charred oak but one of the best mature Alban Syrahs I’ve had. But I preferred the SQN because of it greater balance and interest.
    Tom

How do you figure? The cork failed long ago. Being on it’s side meant wine kept the cork moist and helped protect the wine. The question is why, primarily, did the cork fail? Did wine contact cause the breakdown or not? If not, the wine would be long dead.

I’ve had corks dry out and fail when a bottle stood neglected in the back of a fridge too long. Of course that’s an extreme case of a very arid environment. But, anecdotally maybe a 10% failure rate with failures as soon as 3 months. I’d guess those wines would’ve been better off on their sides.

I don’t know what the humidity in Los Alamos NM, but I would guess ‘often on the dry side’. So what happens is that the cork starts to dry out from the outside. Once the seal is broken the game is over. If there are any imperfections in the cork or bore entry of the bottle, this process can get rolling quickly.
Various tests have shown that you can keep the bottle right side up…if the humidity is high enough.