DINNER AT MEGUMI - Megumi, Sentosa Golf Club (30/11/2013)
A delicious impromptu dinner sparked off by a couple of Champagne buys after a great at Mood Indigo (see “CellarTracker! Invalid event iEvent=23471”). As good as the Champagnes were though - and the Selosse was brilliantly so - this dinner established the fact beyond doubt that sake is by far the best pairing with sushi. In this, a superb bottle of Dassai 23 put the bubblies to shame. Nevertheless, it was a real treat to close a great day off in such a fashion.
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NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
Wow - this may not be to everyone’s liking, but I thought it was a fantastic Champagne. I have only had the Substance once before, and this bottle had a quite a bit more bottle-age than the last one I tried, having been disgorged way back in 2 November 2005. I am not sure it was any “better” qualitatively than the last bottle, but I did really enjoy the more mature notes here. It had a beautiful nose, with brown pears and ripe apple aromas along with some kumquats and then slightly oxidative stylings of white meat with a light drizzle of soy sauce, and then deep whiffs of earth and toast and mineral. A very complex, shifting bouquet, very masculine at first, but opening up into sweeter notes of honey and flowers in time. Really nice. It had a wonderful palate too. This unfolded across the mouth in a great show of layered depth and intensity, with strong flavours of browned pears and red apples echoing the aromas picked up from the nose, and then a midpalate that added earth and white meat, with a linear spine of super fine bead and fresh acidity kept the wine ever so defined and focused. A super long finish then set-in with honey and kumquats pulling away into the distance. This was a wine that offered both power and effortless grace, so that it came across with style and finesse in spite of its weighty depth and persistent strength. A beautiful Champagne, drinking wonderfully on the night. (95 pts.) -
NV De Sousa et Fils Champagne Cuvée des Caudalies Millésimé - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne
A good Champagne, but completely overshadowed by a great bottle of Jacques Selosse Substance on the night. Disgorged 16 May 2007, so this had a good bit of age on it, though one really could not tell on the taste. The nose was very expressive at least, even a bit in-your-face, with sweet notes of apples and lemons topped up with large dash of spicy aromas. Like the nose, the palate was rich and a bit sweet, with slightly higher-toned flavours of green apples and lemons showing good depth and power. It was really youthful though, full of bright acidity that rendered it almost a bit tart without food. Indeed, the only sign of the bottle-age was a mellow mousse. Otherwise, this was fresh and very lively, winding its way into a bright finish lined with lemon zest. This was good, a Champagne with character and backbone, but it needs time yet - a good 4-5 years at least. On the day, it worked best when paired with fried tempura, which helped to tame the acidity and allow it to integrate better. (91 pts.)
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