As guests arrived this was enjoyed with some chopped liver (chicken livers, hard boiled egg and onions caramelized in chicken fat; all ground together and seasoned with salt and lots of black pepper).
2001 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
This was the first Riesling than rocked my world, and it is always stellar. Edgy, tense, refreshing Kabinett. Moving more towards salt than it did three years ago. No real diesel in play. Just pure, crystalline acidity. Still plenty of fruit, maybe still a bit reticent. With 6 down and 8 to go I think I am going to star slurping these more regularly. (90 pts.)
Our first course was a warm, slightly sweet gefilte fish, and this was followed by matzah ball soup. A nice soup with a double chicken stock, very rich.
2001 Sanctus Jacobus Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese- Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
This wine is fantastic. At one point I wondered why the heck I bough 6 bottles of an unknown Auslese from a producer unknown to me. My logic was that I was looking for any 2001 I can find. Well as I have dipped into these, any regrets I might have had have long since melted away. Pretty deep gold color, AWESOME diesel funk and cider notes in the nose. Just pure honey and love on the palate, rich but amazingly well balanced with stunning acidity. Five down and 1 last bottle to go. This has been a fave, so I will be sad to see it go. (92 pts.)
The main course was braised brisket, roasted root vegetables and cider braised collard greens with balsamic glazed green apples.
1999 Domaine du Castel Grand Vin- Israel, Judean Hills
Popped and poured. Lovely nose, a bit stalky with currant bush and undergrowth galore. The palate is bright, lean, supple, very mature. I like where this is, but it also cracks up very quickly in the glass and moves to ‘old red wine’ scents in just a matter of minutes. There is no runway left on this, but drink up and enjoy a classy, Bordeaux styled wine. (88 pts.)
2000 Château Léoville Poyferré Kosher- France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Mmm, this is a serious wine but just not ready right now. Really nice nose, strong green tobacco and stalk. The palate is tight, tight, tight, juicy red fruit, strong mineral tones, nice acidity, gripping tannins. I popped and poured and followed for 3 hours, and it wasn’t even close to enough. I have a bit left that I will revisit tomorrow, but I think this just wants some years. (91 pts.)
I have had the regular Poyferre in many vintages (82, 90, 96, 97, 99, 00, 03), and the 2003 kicks butt, certainly right there with the 82 and the 90 and a bit ahead of the 2000. I have only had the 99 and 00 in the Kosher Cuvee. The bottle this year was good but reticent, even the last glass tonight. Either I opened a weak bottle or more likely it seemed like it was really sleeping hard. I am guessing that 01 and 03 are providing more pleasure right now.
Err, umm, yeah on the Saint. That’s what happens when runs down to the cellar to grab a Spatlese or Auslese in the midst of cooking/serving without having thought in advance about what I might pour. The wine was a nice match at least, but the Saint on the label is a bit of irony on a Jewish holiday. (I know those who will not pour a German wine on such a day either, but I do not subscribe to that.)
Germany (especially the Mosel) does produce some kosher wines. Perhaps best to sum those up by stating that not one of those made it into my little book “Rogov’s Guide to Kosher Wines 2010” in which I write about the best 500 kosher wines I tasted or re-tasted in the last year.
Austria indeed produces some quite commendable kosher editions. If you like, I can post tasting notes for some of those.
I’m a bit surprised to hear that you think that the Pruem needs to be drunk more rapidly. Although I have only begun to dip into my 2001s, older Pruem from great vintages (83 and 90) typically lasts forever. I would imagine that even the Kabinetts would be delicious for years to come.
I do not think the Prum WS Kab NEEDS to be drunk more rapidly. I think I NEED (like I really, really WANT) to drink them more rapidly. I have been a pretty good boy about keeping my hands off of them…
Given that there is no diesel happening I suspect this has decades to go–heck I have had Kabinetts from 1959 that were still lively. I just happen to like there this is getting right now at age 8. I suspect by age 10 it will be in prime drinking territory. It is definitely leaner now than it was in its youth.
i hope you had a nice celebration with your family. here is a photo of our meal, wine is 06 Southern Exposure Zin made in El Dorado Co by Chaim Gur-Arieh.
