TN: Recent Burgs

2002 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots: Fantastic at this point. Viscous, honeysuckle, mouth-coating and complex. This got bigger and bigger as the night went on.

1996 Angerville Champans: I think Angerville, more than any other burg producer with whom I am familiar, really benefits from extended exposure to oxygen before drinking. At first, the wine was acidic and had a strong element of funk. Over 6-7 hours, it woke up and resembled great Angerville wines that I’ve had in the past. Based on this I will probably drink my remaining '96 Angerville’s over the next year or so (with the exception of the Ducs, which I will continue to hold).

2001 Dugat-Py Chambertin: Corked. You win some; you lose some. This loss hurt.

A

Now that’s an ‘ouch’ - sorry to hear.
The only bottle I ever had was an 04 and I chose to resell to someone with more taste for the vintage…

Alex–why would you drink-up your d’Angervilles when they are just entering a prolonged window of drinkability?

John - I’m not sure that they are entering a prolonged window of drinkability. Based on the bottle I had last night, I think the likelihood of the champans going downhill is greater than the likelihood that it will improve. I own the champans, the caillerets and the ducs. I’m assuming a similar aging curve for the caillerets to that of the champans. I’ve most recently had the ducs 3 or 4 years ago, and promised myself I wouldn’t touch another until 2020. I’m sticking to that. But with the champans (and by analogy, the caillerets) I don’t see any upside to holding them longer.
A

Alex, that is an interesting thought on Champans/Caillerets. Is that because the Caillerets vines were young in the 1996 vintage? The only Angerville Caillerets I have bought is the 2005, which I seem to recall was from 15-year-old vines. So the 1996 could be from very young vines, or perhaps much older vines if Angerville’s replanting occurred in stages? The reason I ask is that I’d normally think of Clos des Ducs and Caillerets as the two most highly esteemed crus of Volnay, with both able to age a very long time.

A bottle that turns beautiful after 6-7 hours of air doesn’t sound like a wine in decline to me. I’d recommend saving a few just to see if you are right (I don’t think you are, unless you have provenance issues).

I didn’t think it turned beautiful. I thought it had a resemblance to the great Angerville’s that I’ve had, but it wasn’t one of of them. I don’t think this ever was (or ever will be), great. The Ducs is a different story.

A

I’m not sure Lewis. I would certainly agree with you on the Ducs. But in Angerville’s hands, I think the Ducs is in a class of its own (and far superior to the Caillerets). I’ve had various vintages of both dating back to the late 80s, and I guess I don’t think of Angerville’s Caillerets as a great wine (where as the Ducs is one of my favorites). I like the Caillerets that I’ve had from Lafarge (more so than Angerville) and I don’t have enough experience with Bouchard or Pousse D’Or to comment on their versions.

A

I’ve had the Champans and the Cailleret 1996’s within the past year. the Caillerets was pristine–crytalline pomegranate/cranberry fruit, beautiful acid structure. No problem here for another 10-15 years. Don’t know about vine age. the Champans was a bottle I procured from a random on line retailer within the past 2 years. Slightly oxidized suggesting poor treatment, still not at all a bad wine, but a little muddied by oxidation. The Ducs I’ve had 2-3 times and is a real star with a long life ahead. I don’t believe I’ve had the taillepieds from 96. again, I think you are underestimating these wines and I’d certainly save some for longer aging.

Sounds to me like your experience with the Champans is basically the same as mine. Your bottle sounds tired. You attribute it to storage but I think it is just the wine. As for the Ducs, I’m not touching mine for years. I don’t think it is even approaching its peak.

A

Alex, good to have your opinion on the Ducs. I had been planning to sample it this year. I probably still will, as I have a 6 pack.

There’s a chance I might have the Ducs tonight. I’ll report if I do. alex, I understand what you’re saying and you could be right, but knowing how long these wines traditionally last, and knowing the the 93 champans is pretty wonderful and healthy, I’d be surprised, unless they blew it with Champans in 96.

Lew–with regard to the Caillerets, Norman and Taylor’s book in listing vine age lists 98 and 2003 under Cailleret, suggesting this was when replantings were done. So 96 should still be older vines (tasted like it as well.)

Now I’m incredibly envious. If you do, please report back. Would love to hear where it is now.
A

Would love to hear about the Ducs if you open it tonight John. I’m really looking forward to the remainder of mine.
A

Yes, there was a 96 d’angerville Ducs last night. I’ve loved this wine every time I’ve had it, and last night was no exception.

Quite dark red. Penetrating red and black fruits with licorice and light spice in the background. Powerful yet graceful structure. This is a wonderful wine right now, but consensus was that it would be closer to being “mature” in 5 years. (Also had 98 Lafarge Clos des Chenes–another beautiful wine, drinking well right now; 95 deMontille Mitans, very nice, but needs a lot of air–very dull and unimpressive for the first couple of hours; and 99 Pousse Bousse–very good fruit, but too much oak and char. Hopefully in a few years this will integrate some).

I don’t really get those who look only to the Cote de Nuits for their wines. The best of Volnay is really hard to beat anywhere.

Thanks for the note, John. That seals the deal… I will have to pop the '96 Ducster soon. Agree that there is much to love on both halves of the Cote d’Or.