Short and simple: a vertical tasting of R. López de Heredia’s lighter and more delicate Rioja Reserva, Viña Bosconia, from 2011 to 2002.
We had also some extra bottles that didn’t make it to the photo shoot.
While the more famous Viña Tondonia has been historically made like a traditional Rioja, ie. a wine that emulates the fine wines of Bordeaux with local influence, Viña Bosconia was originally conceived as a Spanish take on the lighter and more delicate wines of Burgundy. The wine is made with fruit sourced from the 15-hectare El Bosque vineyard, which used to have a high percentage of Cepa Borgoña, ie. Pinot Noir. However, after the creation of the Rioja appellation, Pinot Noir was no longer allowed in Rioja reds; thus, the vineyard was replanted to traditional red varieties of Rioja and today consists of Tempranillo (11 ha), Garnacha (2 ha), Graciano (1 ha) and Mazuelo (aka. Carignan; 1 ha). Yet without any Pinot Noir, the producer still aims to make Bosconia in a style that is lighter and more delicate compared to the more muscular, darker-toned Tondonia. The wines are fermented spontaneously in old and very large oak fermenters, aged for 5 years in very old barriques and then for a further 3 years in bottles before release.
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2020 Windchaser Gewürztraminer - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (20.7.2022)
100% Gewürztraminer, bottled unfined and unfiltered. 14,2% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Slightly hazy whitish-green color. Sweet, tropical and subtly lifted nose with aromas of exotic fruits, some perfumed floral tones, a little bit of apricot, light sweet notes of pear jam, a hint of something vaguely volatile and a touch of rubbery reduction. The wine feels a bit odd on the palate; it is ripe, sweet-toned and even slightly viscous on the palate, perhaps off-dry, yet surprisingly firm and bright at the same time, coming across as medium-bodied, not big or heavy. There are flavors of nectarine and sweet apple jam, some primary notes of pear jelly candies, a little bit of honeydew melon, light waxy tones and a faint volatile hint of paint thinner or something similar. The acidity feels surprisingly high - and maybe even a bit hard, yet quite in harmony with the slightly oily mouthfeel and somewhat sweetish fruit, making the wine come across as quite balanced. The finish is long, fresh and slightly sweet-toned with ripe flavors of exotic fruits, some apple jam, a little bit of honeydew melon, light primary notes of pear drops, a hint of stony minerality and a faint touch of alcohol.
An enjoyable, juicy and quite balanced effort - although perhaps not that recognizable for the variety. Usually Gewürztraminer is instantly recognizable in blind tastings, but here I wondered if this was a hybrid, or perhaps an obscure white variety from Loire. When told this wine was from California (didn't manage to guess that correctly), I guessed Viognier, based on the exotic fruit notes and viscous mouthfeel. This wine had a lot higher acidity than I anticipated from a Gewürztraminer, but also coming across as more fruity and exotic than normally, lacking quite a bit those fragrant notes of spices and rose petals or rosewater. Good, balanced stuff made in a quite brisk, refreshing style, but perhaps not that true to the variety. Feels a bit pricey for the quality at $28.
(87 points) -
2010 La Rioja Alta Rioja Viña Ardanza Reserva Selección Especial - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
A blend of Tempranillo (80%) from 30-yo vines and Garnacha (20%) from La Pedriza vineyard planted at high altitude in La Rioja Baja, all picked in mid-October. This is the third vintage that was made completely from fruit sourced from estate vineyards (traditionally at least a part of Garnacha has been purchased). Fermented and macerated in stainless steel, aged in stainless steel tanks until March 2011. The Tempranillo wines were aged for 36 months in American oak barriques averaging 4 years old and the Garnacha wines were aged for 30 months in 2nd and 3rd use American oak barrels. Blended and bottled in May 2015. 13,5% alcohol, 6,01 g/l acidity and pH 3,56. Total production 50,000 cases. Tasted blind.
Moderately translucent and very slightly evolved black cherry color with a pale rim. Very big and sweet-toned nose dominated by classic Rioja aromas of vanilla and wizened figs, some leathery tones, a little bit of ripe red cherry, light toasty notes of mocha, a hint of redcurrant jam and a touch of cloves. The wine is dry, firm and surprisingly fresh on the palate with a medium body and rather oak-driven flavors of vanilla and toasty oak spice and with notes of fresh redcurrants and wild strawberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of clove, light sweeter notes of dried figs, a funky hint of sweaty leather saddle and a nice bitter touch of sour cherry. The structure relies mostly on the rather high acidity and somewhat noticeable bitterness, as the ripe and quite gentle tannins mainly contribute to the silky texture of the wine, rather than to the structure. The finish is rich, long and gently grippy with layered flavors of vanilla oak and clove-driven spice, some toasty oak tones, a little bit of dried figs, light red-tone notes of redcurrants and wild strawberries, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of old leather.
I honestly thought of La Rioja Alta from the first sniff and with the first taste I thought this must be either Ardanza or Arana, from a relatively recent vintage. Close enough - right with the first guess. However, although very recognizable for the house style, the wine still felt a bit unbalanced: first off, the nose was not only bursting with vanilla notes, but also showing quite a bit of toasty mocha oak character, which felt a bit out of place for a LRA wine. Furthermore, the wine otherwise came across as a bit more evolved than I anticipated for a 2010 and only from the quite unresolved structure and still very prominent oak tones I guessed that this must be a relatively recent vintage - otherwise I would've went with a vintage 10 years older! Nevertheless, I'd say that the wine might be just lacking in age; it might now feel a bit awkward, but there seems to be good promise for future evolution (even if the tannic structure was surprisingly soft and mellow for a 2010 LRA!). The wine really could use some additional aging and I guess it needs another 10 years or so before it really starts to come together. What I've learned from drinking young and old Ardanza is that these wines really can take on some aging and they really benefit from it.
(91 points) -
2011 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Somewhat translucent and still surprisingly youthful garnet color. Somewhat restrained yet also pleasant and slightly evolved nose with fine-tuned aromas of sweet figs and saddle leather, some balsamic notes, a little bit of earth, light juicy notes of ripe dark forest fruits, a hint of woody spice and a touch of crunchy red berries. The wine feels firm, savory and slightly bitter on the palate with a silky texture, a medium body and dry flavors of tart lingonberries and cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of fresh red plum, light leathery tones, a hint of earth and a touch of savory wood spice. The wine is wonderfully high in acidity with powdery medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is long, dry and gently grippy with savory flavors of crunchy cranberries and tart red plums, some sweeter notes of strawberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light leathery notes, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of earth.
A sophisticated, classically built and thoroughly harmonious vintage of Bosconia that doesn't feel too young, yet doesn't really show any age either. I enjoyed the dry, acid-driven and subtly bitter overall character of the wine quite a bit. Tasting this side-by-side with the 2010 vintage, I'd say this vintage packs a bit more substance and concentration, whereas the 2010 vintage feels now more expressive and elegant in comparison. At the moment I prefer the 2010 vintage (marginally), but I wouldn't be surprised if this vintage gained the upper hand in the longer run - the wine definitely shows great potential for future development. Although fully drinkable at the moment, I'd say this wine needs another decade or so before it really starts to show its best. At approx. 24€ this is a terrific purchase.
(91 points) -
2010 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol, 2 g/l residual sugar and 6,8 g/l acidity.
The wine looks almost identical to the 2011 vintage, only with a subtly more evolved, slightly rusty hue. The nose feels ripe and dark-toned with vibrant aromas of sweet black cherries and juicy figs, some plummy tones, a little bit of old leather, light floral nuances, a hint of clove-driven spice and a woody touch of old oak. The wine feels juicy and silky on the palate - perhaps coming across as slightly lighter and more airy than the 2011 - with a medium body and quite expressive flavors of ripe lingonberries and fresh cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of crunchy red plum, light woody notes of old oak spice, a hint sanguine hint of iron and a touch of chokeberry juice. The overall feel is firm and balanced, thanks to the high acidity and somewhat grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is dry, long and moderately grippy with a savory aftertaste of tart lingonberries and ripe red plums, some leathery tones, a little bit of old woody oak, light cranberry nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of blood.
It feels as though this vintage was a bit more ripe than the 2011, but the ripeness here didn't really translate into more concentration or sense of weight - on the contrary, this vintage felt slightly lighter and more delicate compared to the 2011, the ripeness just making the wine feel a bit more open and expressive, shifting the fruit profile slightly towards the darker end of the spectrum. I guess 2010 is more about finesse and structure, whereas 2011 is more about depth and substance. At the moment 2010 feels slightly more impressive when compared side-by-side with 2011, but it might change with age - despite its structure, I get the feel that the 2011 vintage might be packing more stuff to go for the really long run. And even if the wine is drinking really well right now, I'm quite positive it will do nothing but get better over the next decade or so. Bosconia might be the most Burgundian wine in the RLdH lineup, but in our vertical tasting this vintage was definitely one of the most "Burgundian" vintages of Bosconia. Terrific stuff and superb value at approx. 24€.
(92 points) -
2009 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol, 2,3 g/l residual sugar and 6,5 g/l acidity.
The brooding, somewhat opaque fig-colored appearance looks deeper and darker than that of vintages 2010 and 2011 that were tasted alongside. The nose feels quite typical of Bosconia, although coming across as bigger and sweeter than in the two preceding vintages with aromas of ripe dark plums and wizened figs, some dark forest fruits, a little bit of ripe strawberry, light balsamic notes of vague volatile character, a hint of dried dates, a touch of oak spice and a whiff of dill - the latter two characteristics are elements I very rarely pick in a Heredia wine. The wine feels quite richly textured and relatively full-bodied for a Bosconia, yet wonderfully dry and firm at the same time with savory flavors of fresh dark plums and sweeter dried figs, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of crunchy cranberry and tart lingonberry, light balsamic nuances of VA, vague American oak hints of toasty oak and dried dill and a touch of wild strawberry. The wine feels quite muscular and sinewy with its quite high acidity and moderately assertive and medium-plus tannins that lend healthy grip to the mouthfeel. The finish is rich, juicy and quite grippy with a long, dry aftertaste of tart lingonberries, fresh red plums and ripe cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of balsamic richness, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of old dry leather and a faint touch of dried dill.
After the slightly leaner vintages 2010 and 2011, this 2009 felt slightly larger and fruitier in comparison, yet not showing noticeably more weight or ripeness. I guess the warmer 2009 vintage doesn't really translate into sweetness or softness in Bosconia, but instead it lends more power, depth and concentration to the wine; with its slightly bigger body and darker-toned aromatics, this vintage was probably closest to the more brooding style of Tondonia Reserva, whereas the other Bosconias felt somewhat more Burgundian instead. What surprised me, though, was how the wine exhibited some vague notes of dill and toasty oak; while these are classic aromatics for a Rioja, I've not used to finding them in any of the Heredia reds, because the wines see old oak barriques almost exclusively. I wonder if this 2009 vintage saw a bit more new oak than is typical for the label, as these characteristics were quite absent in all other vintages? Go figure. Nevertheless, this was a very impressive, balanced and harmonious vintage of Bosconia that was drinking really well right now, but I can imagine the wine will continue to improve for another decade or so. An excellent purchase at 25€.
(93 points) -
2008 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol and 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 80,000 bottles.
The color is deep and dark figgy red, quite similar to the vintage 2009, but with a slightly more evolved maroon hue. The nose feels attractive, complex and somewhat evolved with nuanced aromas of juicy dark plums, floral notes of violets, some balsamic notes of VA, a little bit of old saddle leather, light sweet notes of dried figs, a woody hint of savory old oak and a touch of farmhouse funk. No obvious oak aromatics whatsoever. The wine feels dense, silky and textural on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite intense, ripe flavors of tart lingonberries, ferrous notes of blood, some old leather, light red-toned notes of fresh red plums and crunchy cranberries, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, evolved hints of earth, meat consommé and balsamic richness and a touch of earth. The overall feel shows good sense of concentration along with nice structure that relies a bit more on the high acidity than on the ample yet ripe and somewhat resolved tannins. The finish is long, complex and slightly grippy with a somewhat developed aftertaste of tart redcurrants and lingonberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of old leather, light balsamic nuances, an evolved hint of meat consommé and a touch of dried dark fruits.
A beautiful, fine-tuned and classically built vintage of Bosconia that feels quite similar to the neighboring 2009 vintage. Although this vintage shows surprising amount of ripeness for the 2008 vintage, the wine is still slightly drier and a bit lighter in body compared to the 2009 vintage - despite the similarity in character and ripeness, you can still taste the differences in the vintage. The 2009 is more about power, fruit and weight, this 2008 is more about focus, structure and freshness. Yet I must admit that the differences are minuscule and if I weren't tasting the wines side-by-side, I wouldn't know one wine from the other - so similar they are to each other. Although the wine is starting to show some age in its slightly meaty tertiary characteristics, I can imagine this wine will continue to evolve and improve for years more. A lovely vintage with a lot of upside. Excellent value at 25€.
(93 points) -
2007 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol and 6,5 g/l acidity. Total production 70,000 bottles.
Rather opaque and moderately evolved, luminous rusty-maroon color. Quite ripe and sweet-toned but also surprisingly evolved and even slightly tertiary nose that feels notably more aged than the other Bosconias in the tasting with aromas of dried red fruits and beef jerky, some raisiny tones, a little bit of balsamic richness, light lingonberry jam tones, a hint of ripe cranberry and a touch of game. The wine feels evolved, quite dry and savory on the palate with a medium body and rather tertiary flavors of crunchy cranberries and beef jerky, some hoi sin notes, a little bit of balsamic richness, light sweeter notes of dried dates and wizened red plums, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a woody touch of savory old oak spice. The texture is rather silky, yet the wine shows quite a bit of structure with its high acidity and moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, savory and rather grippy with rather tertiary flavors of tart red plums and crunchy cranberries, beef jerky, some meaty notes of game and blood, a little bit of sweet leathery funk, light woody notes of old oak, developed hints of balsamic richness and umami-driven soy sauce and a touch of dried dill.
A harmonious and quite structured but also surprisingly evolved vintage of Bosconia that came across as much older than any other wine in the vertical. Although still wonderfully complex and impressively structured, the fruit department was starting to feel already a bit tired and slightly dull, especially amidst all the more youthful vintages. Although very enjoyable, this wine showed qualities I would've expected from a Bosconia that was 10-15 years older. I wonder whether this is a faster-maturing vintage (at least the region of Rioja Alta had problems with hailstorms and mildew) or if we just had an off bottle. While recognizable for a Bosconia and otherwise enjoyable and attractive with its fresh structure, the rather tertiary overall character dominated by balsamic notes and dried fruits made this wine feel quite senescent in the middle of a vertical tasting. Still, solid value at approx. 25€.
(90 points) -
2006 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol. Total production 80,000 bottles.
Dark, somewhat translucent and beautifully luminous black cherry color - still surprisingly youthful for its age. The nose feels expressive, complex and slightly sweetish with layered, slightly evolved aromas of wizened red cherries and cherry pits, some plum liqueuer, a little bit of saddle leather and horse stable funk, light developed notes of hoi sin, a hint of dried dark fruits and a touch of sweet strawberry. The wine feels dry, firm and slightly evolved on the palate with a medium body and intense flavors of wizened lingonberries, some meaty notes of umami and ferrous nuances of blood, a little bit of leathery funk, light woody oak tones, a hint of ripe cranberry and a touch of plum liqueur without any liqueurish sweetness. The combination of impressive, noticeably acidity and firm, somewhat grippy medium tannins make the wine feel very focused and sinewy with great sense of structure. The finish is long, somewhat grippy and slightly evolved with a dry, complex aftertaste of lingonberry jam and wizened cranberries, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of leathery funk, light woody notes of savory oak spice, a hint of earth and a salty touch of beef jerky.
Heredia's Viña Tondonia is often described as the "Bordeaux" to the "Burgundy" of Viña Bosconia - and this vintage of Bosconia is probably the best example of how Burgundian this label can be. This is as classically styled old-school Rioja as any Heredia, but coming across as lighter and more delicate than the other red wines, emphasizing finesse and precision over power or fruit. Yet, among all the other Bosconia vintages it becomes very clear that this is at the same time showing stunning intensity and exceptional sense of structure. Even if the wine is starting to show some evolved complexity, the overall feel here was still very youthful compared to the surrounding vintages. This is really a top-notch vintage of Bosconia that might be my favorite of the vintages this side of the millennium. For a Burgundy lover, this is a wine that is hard not to love and it is outstanding already now, but also shows great potential for future development. Expect the score to slowly go up over the next decade or two. Exceptional value at 26,90€. Very highly recommended.
(94 points) -
2005 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol. Total production 99,000 bottles.
In the glass the wine looks very similar to the 2006 vintage, only perhaps even slightly darker and more opaque with with its luminous black cherry color. The nose feels quite ripe, sunny and sweet with complex, lightly evolved aromas of wizened cherries and ripe figs, some strawberry jam tones, a little bit of new leather, light sweet and buttery notes of diacetyl, a hint of forest floor and a balsamic touch of subtle VA. The wine feels ripe and quite substantial for a Bosconia with a moderately full-body and somewhat evolved - even slightly tertiary - flavors of dried lingonberries and ripe strawberries, some notes of earthy spice, a little bit of beef jerky, light dried-fruit notes of figs and dates, a developed, salty hint of soy sauce and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The structure relies mostly on the moderately high acidity, as the ripe and somewhat resolved medium tannins that don't bring much grip to the wine, making the wine feel balanced and firm despite its ripeness. The finish is dry-ish, moderately evolved and somewhat grippy with a lengthy aftertaste of dried dates and beef jerky, some lingonberry jam, a little bit of earthy spice, light strawberry nuances, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a touch of soy sauce.
A balanced and moderately evolved vintage of Bosconia that feels slightly more solar than is typical for this label, coming across as both somewhat more ripe and more evolved than the still remarkably youthful and still quite tightly-wound 2006. While enjoyable already, I can see this wine being still capable of further evolution - although not to the extent of the seemingly more longer-lived vintages like 2006 and 2008. I'd say this vintage is more in line with the 2007 vintage in terms of development, although stylistically coming across as a bit bigger and more substantial, showing more ripeness. A lovely wine in its own right, but if possible, I'd go for the lighter and more savory vintages like 2004 or 2006. But then again, at just 20€ this is really a steal for its quality.
(92 points) -
2004 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Deep, slightly translucent and still surprisingly youthful blackish-red color. The nose feels slightly more restrained compared to the younger vintages we tasted, but at the same time more fine-tuned with seductive aromas of ripe dark forest fruits, some dusty cherry tones, a little bit of wizened digs, light earthy notes, a floral hint of violets, a sweet touch of ripe plums and a whiff of campfire smoke. The wine feels firm, textural and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and somewhat evolved - even slightly tertiary - dry flavors of game and beef jerky, some tart lingonberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light earthy tones, a hint of fresh red plums and a sweeter touch of ripe black cherry. The structure relies mostly on the fresh, high acidity as the rich yet very resolved, friendly tannins mainly contribute to the texture of the wine. The finish is long, gently grippy and somewhat tertiary with a nuanced, dry aftertaste of wizened lingonberries and tart cranberries, some earthy notes, a little bit of fresh, tart red plum, light evolved notes of beef jerky, a hint of forest floor and a touch of tangy salinity.
A beautiful, harmonious and delicious vintage of Bosconia. The wine feels somewhat (not noticeably, though) more evolved than the bottle I tasted only a year ago - I wonder whether this wine has developed more than I anticipated in just over a year, or if this bottle wasn't as representative as the previous one? Anyways, this wine was more or less at the same phase as the 2005 we had, only showing more focus, nuances and brighter acid structure if compared side-by-side. I wonder whether this vintage wasn't as long-lived than I earlier expected or if it was just bottle variation. This was an outstanding, classic Rioja, but based on this taste, I feel its potential for further improvement is quite limited - drink now or within the next 10 or so years. Unbelievable value at approx. 20€.
(94 points) -
2003 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13,5% alcohol.
Very deep and still surprisingly youthful ruby color (for the age) with a clear, pale cherry-red rim. The rather dark-toned nose feels quite rich and sweet-toned with relatively linear aromas of ripe dark plums and wizened black cherries, some dusty old wood tones and a little bit of meat stew. With a little bit of air, subtle nuances of dried flowers and hoi sin start to emerge. The wine feels surprisingly rich, ripe and full-bodied on the palate for a Bosconia. Despite its breadth, the wine is still quite recognizable for a Bosconia. There are quite sunny flavors of wizened black cherries, some sweet strawberries, a little bit of ripe red plum, light earthy notes, tart hints of sour cherries and lingonberry juice and a tertiary hint of meat stew. The acidity is a bit on the soft side, but they keep the wine quite nicely structure along with the moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, somewhat evolved and moderately grippy with dry-ish (not bone-dry) flavors of ripe red plums, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of tart cranberry and lingonberry, light earthy notes, tertiary hints of meat stew and soy sauce and a touch of tangy salinity.
A nice and still relatively youthful vintage of Bosconia that didn't feel as advanced and evolved as the 2004 and 2005 that were tasted alongside. However, it is noteworthy that this was probably the least typical vintage of Bosconia we tasted (along with the similarly solar vintage 2009) with is quite noticeable richness and ripeness, which contributed to the breadth, bigger body and sweeter fruit flavors. Unlike the 2003 Tondonia Reseva, which is surprisingly stern and not really showing any signs of the hot 2003 vintage, this Bosconia is obviously a child of a sunnier vintage. I have to admit the wine is quite wonderful and in a great spot right now, even if there seems to be some potential for future development too, I still must admit I like the classic Bosconia style much more and this wasn't really among my favorites. Nevertheless, at just approx. 20€, this has been a steal.
On a completely unrelated note: this was my 100th RLdH tasting note, whoo!
(91 points) -
2002 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Bosconia - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja (20.7.2022)
13% alcohol.
Deep and moderately opaque blackish-red color. Somewhat restrained, quite ripe and nuanced nose with aromas of dark forest fruits, some dusty old wood, a little bit of licorice root, light ferrous notes of blood, juicy hints of black raspberries and black cherries, a touch of sun-baked earth and a whiff of balsamic richness. The wine is moderately ripe, dark-toned and somewhat evolved with a light-to-medium body and dry flavors of crunchy cranberries and brambly black raspberries, some savory wood spice, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light funky notes of animale, a hint of licorice root and a ferrous touch of blood. The nice acidity feels fresh and high, whereas the tannins come across as very gentle and easy. The finish is dry, long and crunchy with savory, somewhat evolved flavors of tart cranberries and lingonberries, some ferrous blood notes, a little bit of mushroomy earth, light woody notes of old oak spice, fruity hints of black raspberries and black cherries and a touch of balsamico.
A nice, fresh and fine-tuned Rioja from a lighter vintage. Seems to be lacking a bit in substance compared to the other vintages we tasted, but otherwise coming across as wonderfully nuanced and extremely old-school by any standards. Not a big or impressive Rioja by any means - even for a Bosconia this is a quite restrained and even a bit lean effort - but with its sense of balance, freshness and elegance, this is a lovely food wine by all means. I feel the aging potential is a bit limited here, so while the wine might continue to improve for some years more, I really don't feel it calls for any additional aging. It's in a great spot right now - but it will keep just fine for years more. Terrific value at 20,20€.
(90 points) -
2015 Labouré-Roi Santenay 1er Cru Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru (20.7.2022)
Made with purchased fruit sourced from multiple 1er Cru parcels in Santenay. Tasted blind.
Yellow-green color. A somewhat reductively smoky nose that takes me to both Burgundy and Western Australian Chardonnay at the same time; there are quite attractive, albeit a bit oaky aromas of fresh white peach and toasty wood, some crunchy red apple, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light sweeter notes of tropical fruits, a hint of flint smoke and a touch of salty liquorice. The wine feels crisp, racy and quite intense with a medium body and bright, slightly toasty and a bit linear flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some smoky notes of reduction, a little bit of grilled pineapple, light sweeter nuances of honey and canned peach, mineral hints of salinity and incisive steel and a touch of ripe whitecurrant. The high acidity brings great sense of freshness and structure to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and youthful with a slightly smoky aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits and flinty smoke, some woody notes of savory oak spice, a little bit of salty liquorice, light creamy oak nuances, a hint of grilled pineapple and a touch of tangy salinity.
A positively crisp, nuanced and well-balanced effort that is still very youthful and a bit awkward, thus coming across as slightly linear. The slightly reductive and toasty nose made me think of white Burgundy and Western Australian Chardonnay, but on the palate the wine was so surprisingly crunchy, mineral and lemony that I started to wonder whether somebody is trying to fool us, so I went with a black horse and guessed a higher-end Von Winning Riesling. I guess I should've learned to trust my first impression by now, since the wine turned out to be a white Burgundy after all. I was surprised when the wine turned out to be a "lowly" négociant wine, because it showed good sense of finesse, freshness and precision. Although quite smoky and somewhat toasty, the wine wasn't particularly oaky in the end, showing good emphasis on fresh and crunchy fruit tones. The nose seemed to be more complex and smoky than the taste, which felt a bit more linear, but I guess that is just due to the young age of the wine. Most likely the wine needs yet another 5-8 years - or even more - to show its best, but I feel it is going in the right direction. Nice stuff and a positive surprise.
(92 points) -
1999 Tenimenti d'Alessandro Syrah Cortona Il Bosco - Italy, Tuscany, Cortona (20.7.2022)
A blend Syrah of (90%; planted in 1988, 1993, 1995, 1997) and Sangiovese (10%, planted in 1994), macerated for 30 days with the skins, then aged for 12 months in small barriques. 13% alcohol. Total production 5,500 cases. Tasted blind.
Almost fully opaque, dense and somewhat evolved blackish-red color. There are also some very fine particles - careful decanting recommended. The nose feels very smoky and somewhat pungent with aromas of struck match and dry campfire smoke, some tertiary notes of soy sauce, a little bit of charred sausage, light gamey tones, a hint of ripe dark plums, a touch of fresh blackcurrants and a faint whiff of alcohol. The wine is evolved, somewhat smoky and quite tertiary on the palate with a rather full body and developed, moderately umami-driven flavors of meat stew and tar, some notes of old furniture and leather, a little bit of savory wood spice, light fruity notes of ripe blackcurrant, a hint of wizened red plums and a sweeter touch of dried dates. The texture feels silky yet firm and moderately structured, thanks to the rather high acidity and medium tannins that still pack some grip. The finish is long, evolved and savory with complex flavors of game and meaty umami, some beef consommé, a little bit of wizened red plums and dried dates, light raspberry tones, a hint of old leather and a woody touch of savory oak spice.
A nice and tasty old wine where the fruit sector has started to give up and veer towards that tertiary anonymity, but the wine still retains great intensity, complexity and sense of structure. Due to its rather generic "old wine" feel, it was quite impossible to pinpoint it anywhere accurately, but it still is a thoroughly enjoyable wine all the same. I heartily recommend drinking any remaining bottles sooner than later; I get a feeling that time is now working against the wine.
(89 points) -
2015 Château de Chambert Cahors - France, Southwest France, Cahors (20.7.2022)
A blend of Malbec (85%) and Merlot (15%) from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Macerated with the skins for 2-3 weeks. Fermented spontaneously. Aged for 12 months in 3000-liter oak barrels. 13,5% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Deep and moderately opaque black cherry color with a youthful inky hue. Youthful aromas of bilberries and elderberries, some boysenberry tones, light funky notes of new leather, a little bit of fresh strawberry, a thinner-like hint of volatile lift and a touch of dark, plummy fruit. The wine is silky, airy and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a medium body and ripe flavors of juicy cranberries, some woody notes of savory oak spice, light bloody and gamey tones, a little bit of fresh red plum and red cherry, floral hints of elderflowers and a touch of balsamic VA. The overall feel is a bit on the round side, yet pretty balanced with the moderately high acidity and quite gentle and well-behaved tannins. The finish is moderately long, ripe and slightly sweet-toned yet also very umami-driven with flavors of juicy cherries and some wild strawberries, a little bit of savory earthy spice, light meaty notes of game and ferrous blood, a hint of elderberry and a touch of leathery funk. The ripe tannins make the wine end on a gently grippy note.
Just like the last time, this was a very nice, fresh and surprisingly delicate effort for a Cahors with a flavor profile that is quite far removed from the typically dark, firm and powerful style of the region. My first guess went right off the mark with red Burgundy, but got a bit closer with Bordeaux. After that I went with Southwest France, which turned out to be correct even if I wasn't really thinking of Cahors when making the guess. However, I remembered tasting this wine in the past, so I guessed this and got the wine correct. All in all, a nice, slightly rustic yet surprisingly sophisticated and lithe example of Cahors that is drinking well right now and will continue to improve for at least a handful of years more, if not longer. A bargain at 13€.
(91 points) -
1998 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Valbelle - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas (20.7.2022)
A co-fermented blend of Grenache (90%) and Syrah (10%) from the oldest St. Cosme estate vineyards in Gigondas. Aged in partially new (approx. 20%) oak barrels. 14% alcohol and 1,5 g/l residual sugar. Tasted blind.
Evolved, moderately translucent brick-red color with a deep pomegranate color and a thin orange rim. Evolved, meaty nose with quite tertiary aromas of dried strawberries and raspberry jam, some game, a little bit of old leather, light boozy notes of alcohol, a hint of sweet spices, a fragrant touch of stewed rose hips and a whiff of licorice root. The wine feels dry, evolved and very textural on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and quite developed flavors of wizened cranberries and dried strawberries, some leathery notes, a little bit of earth, light ferrous notes of blood, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of ripe red plums. Despite its ripeness, the wine feels moderately high in acidity with still quite grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is is dry, slightly warm and moderately grippy with long, somewhat tertiary flavors of lingonberry compote and salt-cured beef, some dried cranberries, a little bit of old leather, light earthy notes, a woody hint of pencil shavings and a touch of ripe strawberry.
An enjoyably, textural and still surprisingly structured Gigondas. The age is starting to show, but the wine hasn't turned into an old, anonymous wine yet, instead retaining some youthful energy that nicely accentuates the sweeter elements in the tertiary flavors. After guessing old Bordeaux and Bandol, I went for an aged Châteauneuf-du-Pape. When told my guess was very close, I guessed old St. Cosme Gigondas - bullseye. A delightful old Rhône red, but I doubt this wine will continue to improve anywhere from here - hopefully it'll stay good for some more years. Priced according to its quality at 48€.
(92 points)
Posted from CellarTracker