PAUL K IN SF - San Francisco (10/25/2009)
At the last minute I tried to get something organized in SF. Leonard Maran and Henry Wilmore were able to join me at Paul K. The food was good, and the service attentive. The wines were all outstanding or better. Quite a nice selection for the three of us.
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1999 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Great nose on opening, but too a god hour or more to open up. Despite being a ripe year, this shows is soul as well as it sense of place. Olive tapenade, boysenberries, violets and damp earthiness make for an enticing nose. Layered, but tight complexity unwind all night. Fiishing the bottle back in my hotel room 4 hours after opening, the last drop is the best. Really needs five more years, but just a wonderful expression of Hermitage. (96 pts.) -
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Henry was concerned as the fill was slightly low. He need not have been. Like previous bottles I have enjoyed of this wine, this bottle rocked. Funky, earthy, vibrant raspberry and black raspberry fruit. This bottle was layered and mature. Showing depth and class, it held my captivated intellectually and hedonistically. A great back bone of acidity, rather then evolving all night, it seemed to unwind and epand without loding its grip. Just a great bottle. (97 pts.) -
2005 Alban Vineyards Syrah Reva Alban Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Edna Valley
Henry opened this late in the evening. Much diffeent in many ways than the rhone wines on the table. Besides being much younger, the Californianess of this wine is undeniable. It speaks to sunshine and exunberance. At the same time, it has purity of fruit and pinpoint precision. Lots of black raspberries, oak and smoke with grilled meats. Port-esqu perhaps but quite tasty. At the end of the meal, it woke up my palate a bit and tasted quite good. (95 pts.) -
1998 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Leonard bourhg this, it had been opened an hour or so before. I had a great nose of rasspberries, black cherries, spice and just the slightest hint of sweat. This really showed elegance and a feminine nature to it. Nicely complex and by no means fully resolved, it gained in complexity all night long while never losing its deft touch. This wine continues to improve and evolve and while drinking great now, I am sure holds much more in store. 04 (94 pts.)
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